Roof Rack Write-Up with Proline Tracks
02-28-2009, 11:27 AM
#1
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Roof Rack Write-Up with Proline Tracks
I decided to try the roof rack installation on a budget: purchase less expensive rails, and find used Thule hardware and crossbars. I also drilled all my holes through the double-thick fiberglass section just outboard of the outer roof ribs. I also did this installation without removing the hard top from the vehicle.
Parts List:
------------
2 60" Proline tracks #ES; $39 + $12 s/h
4 Thule TK1
4 Thule 430 with locks
2 Thule 58" bars; used - all for $100 (found on CraigsList.org)
20 galvanized washers
12 3/4" long stainless bolts
12 acorn nuts; all for $5 from newly-discovered local fastener store
Time: 3 hours
Step 1: Drilled 1st hole at the rear from the inside, toward the outside. This was to ensure I drilled in the middle of the fiberglass flange. Go through slowly so you don't have a chipped exit surface.
Step 2: Enlarge rear hole in the track with the same drill bit. Lay the track over the hole and insert a bolt to keep track aligned.
Step 3: Position the track parallel to the roof rib. Drill down through the front hole (enlarging it), and insert another bolt to hold alignment. Double check this hole is in the middle of the flange underneath.
Step 4: Look inside at the flange you are attaching to and use masking tape on the outside of the vehicle to mark a "no drilling zone". This no-drill zone will be in the middle of the rack where the flange we're attaching to is missing. I had 3 attachments in the front half of the rail, and 3 more at the rear of the rail; all about 8 inches apart. To get these pairs of 3 holes, drill new holes and enlarge existing holes in the track, again, make sure you don't drill in the "no drill zone". Insert a screw into each hole as you create it.
Step 5: Once you have your 6 holes in the rail and roof, carefully lift the track with the screws installed and lay it on it's side nearby. Use a cleaner to clean the roof where the sticky foam will rest. Peel off the sticky foam backing paper and re-install the track and 6 screws. Don't worry about the sticky foam not bonding to the roof surface - that will occur once you tighten the acorn nuts.
Step 6: Inside the vehicle, remove any loose fiberglass chips around the drilled holes. Outside the vehicle, use needle-nose pliers to remove each screw and apply clear sealant over the hole, then reinstall the screw. Don't forget the end caps - they must be installed over the dab of sealant before inserting the screw.
Step 7: Inside the vehicle, add two washers and the acorn nut to each screw. The two end screws only get one washer due to the end cap tab thickness. Tighten each fastener. The front track fastener requires that you remove the sound bar (6 screws and 1 electrical connection) and you rig up a wrench with an extension and tape to hold the washer and nut in place while turning the screw from above. This front fastener is probably why many people have removed their top to perform this install.
Step 8: Repeat for other side (hopefully learning from mistakes on the 1st side). Vacuum the drill dust from inside, reinstall the sound bar, and test fit the acquired rack hardware.
I also bought 4 tie-down 'knobs' that install in the tracks in the absence of raised side bars. These will help hold the roof bag carrier I plan on using for camping trips. These were also from Proline racks(.com) 4 "Twist-lock Tie Downs" for $9.95. NOTE: I suspect the threaded retainer plates shown in the picture are upside down. The bent portion pointing down in the image, I think, should be pointing up into the gap of the track. The orientation shown is exactly how they were delivered, so I may be wrong...
Parts List:
------------
2 60" Proline tracks #ES; $39 + $12 s/h
4 Thule TK1
4 Thule 430 with locks
2 Thule 58" bars; used - all for $100 (found on CraigsList.org)
20 galvanized washers
12 3/4" long stainless bolts
12 acorn nuts; all for $5 from newly-discovered local fastener store
Time: 3 hours
Step 1: Drilled 1st hole at the rear from the inside, toward the outside. This was to ensure I drilled in the middle of the fiberglass flange. Go through slowly so you don't have a chipped exit surface.
Step 2: Enlarge rear hole in the track with the same drill bit. Lay the track over the hole and insert a bolt to keep track aligned.
Step 3: Position the track parallel to the roof rib. Drill down through the front hole (enlarging it), and insert another bolt to hold alignment. Double check this hole is in the middle of the flange underneath.
Step 4: Look inside at the flange you are attaching to and use masking tape on the outside of the vehicle to mark a "no drilling zone". This no-drill zone will be in the middle of the rack where the flange we're attaching to is missing. I had 3 attachments in the front half of the rail, and 3 more at the rear of the rail; all about 8 inches apart. To get these pairs of 3 holes, drill new holes and enlarge existing holes in the track, again, make sure you don't drill in the "no drill zone". Insert a screw into each hole as you create it.
Step 5: Once you have your 6 holes in the rail and roof, carefully lift the track with the screws installed and lay it on it's side nearby. Use a cleaner to clean the roof where the sticky foam will rest. Peel off the sticky foam backing paper and re-install the track and 6 screws. Don't worry about the sticky foam not bonding to the roof surface - that will occur once you tighten the acorn nuts.
Step 6: Inside the vehicle, remove any loose fiberglass chips around the drilled holes. Outside the vehicle, use needle-nose pliers to remove each screw and apply clear sealant over the hole, then reinstall the screw. Don't forget the end caps - they must be installed over the dab of sealant before inserting the screw.
Step 7: Inside the vehicle, add two washers and the acorn nut to each screw. The two end screws only get one washer due to the end cap tab thickness. Tighten each fastener. The front track fastener requires that you remove the sound bar (6 screws and 1 electrical connection) and you rig up a wrench with an extension and tape to hold the washer and nut in place while turning the screw from above. This front fastener is probably why many people have removed their top to perform this install.
Step 8: Repeat for other side (hopefully learning from mistakes on the 1st side). Vacuum the drill dust from inside, reinstall the sound bar, and test fit the acquired rack hardware.
I also bought 4 tie-down 'knobs' that install in the tracks in the absence of raised side bars. These will help hold the roof bag carrier I plan on using for camping trips. These were also from Proline racks(.com) 4 "Twist-lock Tie Downs" for $9.95. NOTE: I suspect the threaded retainer plates shown in the picture are upside down. The bent portion pointing down in the image, I think, should be pointing up into the gap of the track. The orientation shown is exactly how they were delivered, so I may be wrong...
Last edited by Kozmotoo; 02-28-2009 at 11:46 AM.
03-20-2009, 08:46 AM
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Looks good IMHO, my only thought is if I was to do it I would run a reinforcement strip on the inside the length of the rail and not just the nut/washer. Spreading the weight of the rack along would give it more durability to wind loading. 
09-09-2010, 03:02 PM
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22 months later...
I've been using the rack to transport two 45 pound kayaks on two dozen trips. I've traveled at 70mph regularly with the kayaks strapped on top, and have no signs of trouble (no cracks, no loose acorn nuts, etc.).
The ultimate test came about 18 months ago when I brought my first kayak home strapped to the rack, and pulled into the garage. I quickly stopped once I heard the boat hit the garage
. What a dope! 
. The straps slipped a bit, and the boat shifted back about 4 inches. A thorough check of the rack showed no signs of damage.
I plan on adding a 14' canoe (about 80 lbs.) along with the two kayaks (90 lbs.) in the near future. The weight won't be my concern; rather the wind force on the canoe tip. I'll probably add a bow line to the hood's windshield tie-down strap.
The ultimate test came about 18 months ago when I brought my first kayak home strapped to the rack, and pulled into the garage. I quickly stopped once I heard the boat hit the garage
. What a dope! . The straps slipped a bit, and the boat shifted back about 4 inches. A thorough check of the rack showed no signs of damage.I plan on adding a 14' canoe (about 80 lbs.) along with the two kayaks (90 lbs.) in the near future. The weight won't be my concern; rather the wind force on the canoe tip. I'll probably add a bow line to the hood's windshield tie-down strap.
09-15-2010, 07:18 PM
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Looks good.
I have run a bow tiedown to the footman loop on the hood many times. It is plastic and I have thought of shopping for a metal drawer pull handle to replace it. I have not measured the spacing of the mounting holes, but know that drawer handles are available in a variety of spacings, so I am crossing my fingers that there'll be something with the right spread. Of course a plate under the hood would be advisable.
-Joel
I have run a bow tiedown to the footman loop on the hood many times. It is plastic and I have thought of shopping for a metal drawer pull handle to replace it. I have not measured the spacing of the mounting holes, but know that drawer handles are available in a variety of spacings, so I am crossing my fingers that there'll be something with the right spread. Of course a plate under the hood would be advisable.
-Joel
03-15-2014, 07:50 AM
#7
JK Enthusiast
2 door rails
Here's my twist on this rail system for my 2 door. I bought the complete rack setup.
I got the right rail installed last night. I used an aluminum strip with 6 t-nuts instead of nuts and washers and painted it all white. I'll cut off the extra threads when I take the hardtop off in a few months. The strip is the same length as the rail.
Both 6.5" from each end of the top. Rails are 36 3/4" long measured without end-caps and are 48 1/2" center of rails side to side. Rail cut at the front end, new hole drilled there, then 2 more equally spaced between existing holes. All holes in rail, strip, and top are diameter of t-nut shaft diameter.
I first drilled rear hole into the top from the inside, drilled hole in the strip, mounted rail, then drilled hole for the front hole thru the rail into the top and to mark strip.
Then I removed all and drilled the hole at the front of the strip.
I then remounted all with rails and strips, front and rear screws and nuts, then drilled 4 remaining holes thru rails, roof and marked strips.
I removed all to finish all holes and paint and reinstalled using silicone to fill holes before screw install.
The t-nuts fit the screws that come with the fiberglass install hardware. I hammered the t-nut teeth flush before install, but they still have a little bite left to bite into the strip.
I got the right rail installed last night. I used an aluminum strip with 6 t-nuts instead of nuts and washers and painted it all white. I'll cut off the extra threads when I take the hardtop off in a few months. The strip is the same length as the rail.
Both 6.5" from each end of the top. Rails are 36 3/4" long measured without end-caps and are 48 1/2" center of rails side to side. Rail cut at the front end, new hole drilled there, then 2 more equally spaced between existing holes. All holes in rail, strip, and top are diameter of t-nut shaft diameter.
I first drilled rear hole into the top from the inside, drilled hole in the strip, mounted rail, then drilled hole for the front hole thru the rail into the top and to mark strip.
Then I removed all and drilled the hole at the front of the strip.
I then remounted all with rails and strips, front and rear screws and nuts, then drilled 4 remaining holes thru rails, roof and marked strips.
I removed all to finish all holes and paint and reinstalled using silicone to fill holes before screw install.
The t-nuts fit the screws that come with the fiberglass install hardware. I hammered the t-nut teeth flush before install, but they still have a little bite left to bite into the strip.
