bevan7170

Yes due to already spending a ton of money on the Jeep this week I had to so it would fly under the radar!

EasyRunGents

......I forget how nice being single is sometimes...!

bevan7170

Update on the PCV valve.

While driving home the other night I had 2 deer jump out in front of me so I jumped on the brakes to avoid rearranging my front end. When I jumped on the brakes something didn't feel right with the ABS but I dismissed the feeling as I just fitted new wheels and had a load of weight in the back.

Anyway 100 mile down the road my instrument panel lights up like a Christmas tree. Ignition, traction, ABS, and check engine light are all blinking at me and she's idling like a pig around 800-900 rpm. I plug my scanner in and it's throwing codes C121C and P0507.

It seems that the PCV valve decided to stick open causing the codes. Less than 120 miles on it. Got another one from the same store chain I got the first, no joy still throwing codes at me so I took it to the dealership thinking I'd really screwed something up. $164 dollars later and a new Chrysler supplied PCV Valve and everything is back to normal. I will not be buying them from Advanced Auto again.

Jiblet

Weird combination of events and codes. All the lights, higher idle, and a chassis C code don't add up to PCV in my head.

Dealer said all that is from the PCV?

On the bright side, luckily you didn't hit the deer!

bevan7170

The C121C code translates to C121C-TORQUE REQUEST SIGNAL DENIED. Apparently goes hand in hand with the lack of vacuum with the valve being stuck open.

ronjenx

Here is the information for the C121C code.

C121C–TORQUE REQUEST SIGNAL DENIED

• When Monitored: With the ignition on.
• Set Condition: When the Anti-Lock Brake Module indicates if engine management relevant for Automatic Yaw Control/Traction Control System control can be accomplished.

[TABLE]
[TR]
[TD="bgcolor: white, align: center"]Possible Causes
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="bgcolor: white, align: left"]ANTI-LOCK BRAKE MODULE
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="bgcolor: white, align: left"]POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE
[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

Diagnostic Test

1. CHECK FOR A DTC C121C-TORQUE REQUEST SIGNAL DENIED [HR][/HR] NOTE: This DTC must be active for the results of this test to be valid and this DTC may set while driving under severe load conditions.

Turn the ignition on.
With the scan tool, read and record DTCs.
With the scan tool, read and record Freeze Frame information.
With the scan tool, erase DTCs.
Cycle the ignition switch from off to on.
Start Engine.
With the scan tool, read and record DTCs and monitor ESP Torque Request status.

Does the scan tool display: C121C-TORQUE REQUEST SIGNAL DENIED?

Yes

• Go To 2

No

• Refer to the INTERMITTENT CONDITION diagnostic procedure.
• Perform ABS VERIFICATION TEST.

2. ESP TORQUE REQUEST SIGNAL [HR][/HR]
Engine started.
With the scan tool, read the Allow ESP Torque Request status bit.

Was the Allow ESP Torque Request showing NOT set?

Yes

• Replace the Powertrain Module in accordance with the Service Information.
• Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST.

No

• Replace the Anti-Lock Brake Module in accordance with the Service Information.
• Perform ABS VERIFICATION TEST.

bevan7170

Thanks Ronjex I pulled that info from alldatadiy.com. That site is awesome as it provides information for all DTC codes, parts and numbers and simple instructions for repair.

saharac

Saw the original write-up and some videos and seemed like a piece of cake, but wish I had read through the rest of the thread and come across this thread before I went in and mangled up the valve.

I had to give up on it after fighting with it for a few hours. Pieces of the valve nipple just ripped off, and now there is half a piece of it left. The inside body is still making the noise, so hopefully there should not be a problem with driving the jeep (its my daily driver).

Not sure if I should give it another go, or just take it to a mechanic.

Worst case scenario, what are my options? If the rest of the nipple rips off, is there any way to get it out at that point? [I am tempted to try the locking vice grips method.]

Please help.

Jiblet

That sucks.
I had a tough time first time I tried. Second time the engine was slightly warm and popped out easily.

If you mangled it be careful not to break the tube it sits in.

You could try screwing in a lag bolt or similar to get a grip on it.

saharac

I was afraid of drilling/screwing into the bushing, but that might be the last resort.