Poison Spider 2-Door Brawler Rockers
03-24-2011, 07:58 PM
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Poison Spyder 2-Door Brawler Rockers
Well, after a few months of waiting and endless emails to PSC... I got a set of 2-Door Brawler Rockers!!! I thought I would do a quick write-up, noting a few points that made me sit back and put my beer down 
for a minute to figure what to do next.
1. Get a beer. Or 6, cause this will take a bit. The first side took about 2.5 hours. The second took about 1.5 hours, mostly because I had figured out the nut-serts.
2. Buy a sharp drill bit, 25/64. You'll also need anti-seize compound and some touch up paint. Wash your rig as you will be bolting metal against metal ( I bought the gasket, so metal against rubber against metal.
3. Drink a beer and read the instal instructions. A few times.
First things first. Clamp the upper portion to the side of the tub. Open the door, unplug and watch the door. Who has a dent from their mirror. I do.
Character mark, whatever...
Anyway. I used some nice wood working clamps. Worked awesome.
Make sure that the upper piece is centered relative to the bottom aspect of the door. Check, double check. You are about to make a permanent hole in the tub.
Now, if you have Bushwacker flat fenders. Pay attention. If you are really careful, you might be able to get them to fit between the two flares. It worked on my drivers side, but I just didn't have enough room on the passenger side.
Loosen the bottom two screws on the back of the front flare and the front of the rear flare. Pull some of the trim tape back and slide the upper piece of the PSC Brawler Rockers into place. Center and clamp them. Now, take a sharp razor blade and cut the fender trim rubber seal immediately above the top of the PSC upper piece. Then remove the lower section of the rubber trim seal that would contact the PSC upper piece.
Tape off the flare to protect it when you drill. I hadn't taped yet (above).
Drill the upper/outer two holes with the 1/4" bit. Make sure you don't push the PSC upper piece around while trying to center your bit. Be sure to be dead center in the hole. Use a center punch if you need to... Remove the upper piece and drill with the 25/64 bit. High speed and light pressure. If it bites it might warp the tub. I managed to drill all the holes clean.
Put touchup paint along the edges of the holes...
Next, let's modify the nut-sert tool.
The tool comes with soft washers. There may be a reason for this, but they deform into the large central nut. Lose the original washers, go to Lowe's and buy some hard stainless washers, just large enough to go over the bolt. Put a few between the bolt head and the large central nut, and a few between the central nut and the end of the bolt. When the nut-sert is screwed on, the bolt should just engage all the threads.
Next, when you use the nut-sert tool, get a system down. When you really begin to torque down and initially deform the nut-sert, it will try to move off-axis warping the sheet metal a little bit. I used a 4" extension on a 1/2" drive along with a long box end wrench, using my let to steady the wrench on the central nut and therefore had both hands to keep the nut-sert tool perpendicular to the side of body. This made insertion a breeze. Relatively.
for a minute to figure what to do next. 1. Get a beer. Or 6, cause this will take a bit. The first side took about 2.5 hours. The second took about 1.5 hours, mostly because I had figured out the nut-serts.
2. Buy a sharp drill bit, 25/64. You'll also need anti-seize compound and some touch up paint. Wash your rig as you will be bolting metal against metal ( I bought the gasket, so metal against rubber against metal.
3. Drink a beer and read the instal instructions. A few times.
First things first. Clamp the upper portion to the side of the tub. Open the door, unplug and watch the door. Who has a dent from their mirror. I do.
Character mark, whatever...Anyway. I used some nice wood working clamps. Worked awesome.
Make sure that the upper piece is centered relative to the bottom aspect of the door. Check, double check. You are about to make a permanent hole in the tub.
Now, if you have Bushwacker flat fenders. Pay attention. If you are really careful, you might be able to get them to fit between the two flares. It worked on my drivers side, but I just didn't have enough room on the passenger side.
Loosen the bottom two screws on the back of the front flare and the front of the rear flare. Pull some of the trim tape back and slide the upper piece of the PSC Brawler Rockers into place. Center and clamp them. Now, take a sharp razor blade and cut the fender trim rubber seal immediately above the top of the PSC upper piece. Then remove the lower section of the rubber trim seal that would contact the PSC upper piece.
Tape off the flare to protect it when you drill. I hadn't taped yet (above).
Drill the upper/outer two holes with the 1/4" bit. Make sure you don't push the PSC upper piece around while trying to center your bit. Be sure to be dead center in the hole. Use a center punch if you need to... Remove the upper piece and drill with the 25/64 bit. High speed and light pressure. If it bites it might warp the tub. I managed to drill all the holes clean.
Put touchup paint along the edges of the holes...Next, let's modify the nut-sert tool.
The tool comes with soft washers. There may be a reason for this, but they deform into the large central nut. Lose the original washers, go to Lowe's and buy some hard stainless washers, just large enough to go over the bolt. Put a few between the bolt head and the large central nut, and a few between the central nut and the end of the bolt. When the nut-sert is screwed on, the bolt should just engage all the threads.
Next, when you use the nut-sert tool, get a system down. When you really begin to torque down and initially deform the nut-sert, it will try to move off-axis warping the sheet metal a little bit. I used a 4" extension on a 1/2" drive along with a long box end wrench, using my let to steady the wrench on the central nut and therefore had both hands to keep the nut-sert tool perpendicular to the side of body. This made insertion a breeze. Relatively.
Last edited by Rock Hands; 03-25-2011 at 05:44 AM.
03-24-2011, 08:06 PM
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Still going....
Put the nut-serts in the holes and get 'er done. Take it slow, if you spin one, they recommend a tack weld with your MiG... Oops, I don't have one, so I drank a beer at this point to reflect on the importance of getting it right the first time. 
Now, put the upper piece in place, and insert two small screws. Don't crank them down. If you have the rubber gasket, don't use it now. Once the upper piece is in place, double check that it is centered. Now push this piece flush against the tub, and drill the remaining holes with the 1/4" bit, make sure to be centered. Remove upper piece, drill with 25/64 bit. Paint, nut-sert. Ahhh... down hill from this point on, almost.
Now, clean the tub again. Put the rubber gasket, if you are going to use it, on... hold in place with both top screws front and rear. Put anti-seize on these screws now. Put the upper piece in place and now take some time to insert the screws. If they don't start easily, DO NOT FORCE THEM. The nut-serts are soft and you will cut new thread paths easily... If you force it, you may spin the nut-sert and remember that part about the MIG?
If you get on cross-threaded, back it out gently. I did this three times, while being careful, and remember I'm at two beers, I think... I had a tap laying around and that saved a brother on this one... Carefully retap the nut-sert and replace the screw. Don't forget anti-seize. Insert all the screws...
Now, put the clips in place with the flat portion "up".
You should remove the large silver body bolts with an 18mm socket. Clean their threads and set aside.
Hang the lower piece on the "lip" of the upper piece (which is now firmly attached to the tub). Take the large silver body bolts that you just took out, and put the through the slots on the lower section. Tighten them a little, but do not get them snug at all. Now start all of the screws on the top section, do not tighten at all.
The instructions provided with the hardware say to push the lower section toward the tub to ensure there is NO gap between the two pieces. As I was doing a solo install, and I couldn't use a giant pry bar and the ratchet at the same time, I got out the good ol' clamps.
Now, put the upper piece in place, and insert two small screws. Don't crank them down. If you have the rubber gasket, don't use it now. Once the upper piece is in place, double check that it is centered. Now push this piece flush against the tub, and drill the remaining holes with the 1/4" bit, make sure to be centered. Remove upper piece, drill with 25/64 bit. Paint, nut-sert. Ahhh... down hill from this point on, almost.
Now, clean the tub again. Put the rubber gasket, if you are going to use it, on... hold in place with both top screws front and rear. Put anti-seize on these screws now. Put the upper piece in place and now take some time to insert the screws. If they don't start easily, DO NOT FORCE THEM. The nut-serts are soft and you will cut new thread paths easily... If you force it, you may spin the nut-sert and remember that part about the MIG?
If you get on cross-threaded, back it out gently. I did this three times, while being careful, and remember I'm at two beers, I think... I had a tap laying around and that saved a brother on this one... Carefully retap the nut-sert and replace the screw. Don't forget anti-seize. Insert all the screws...
Now, put the clips in place with the flat portion "up".
You should remove the large silver body bolts with an 18mm socket. Clean their threads and set aside.
Hang the lower piece on the "lip" of the upper piece (which is now firmly attached to the tub). Take the large silver body bolts that you just took out, and put the through the slots on the lower section. Tighten them a little, but do not get them snug at all. Now start all of the screws on the top section, do not tighten at all.
The instructions provided with the hardware say to push the lower section toward the tub to ensure there is NO gap between the two pieces. As I was doing a solo install, and I couldn't use a giant pry bar and the ratchet at the same time, I got out the good ol' clamps.
03-24-2011, 08:11 PM
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And Going...
Now that you've got it clamped... Make sure no space is present between the upper and lower sections. There actually was a little gap. Either PSC can't cut straight or there is a little depression where the upper section is compressed to the tub. I'll go with the latter. The gap was too small to stick a razor blade into, so take that for what it is worth.
When the body bolts are tight, the tighten the larger screws on the top of the lower section.
Sit back and have another cold one. #3 I think.
Admire work...
Lather, rinse, repeat.
Bushwacker Flares.
For those of you with Bushwacker flat fenders... I you are luck enough for them to tuck in, then you are in business. Three of four tucked in for me, but the rear passenger side would not. Although I could remove the entire flare, rubber trim strip, loosen the bolts on the supporting section, slide them a back a 1/16 of an inch and make it tuck in... I am just too lazy. And I don't want to have to order a new trim strip. So I used a couple of new, sharp razor blades to trim the flare a little so that it would ride on top of the PSC upper section. Make sure to remove the trim strip that would contact the PSC upper section or it will not seat when you try to replace the screws... Oh yeah, replace the screws in the fenders, pushing them toward the tub as you tighten.
Have an extra beer for doing this step!
When the body bolts are tight, the tighten the larger screws on the top of the lower section.
Sit back and have another cold one. #3 I think.
Admire work...
Lather, rinse, repeat.
Bushwacker Flares.
For those of you with Bushwacker flat fenders... I you are luck enough for them to tuck in, then you are in business. Three of four tucked in for me, but the rear passenger side would not. Although I could remove the entire flare, rubber trim strip, loosen the bolts on the supporting section, slide them a back a 1/16 of an inch and make it tuck in... I am just too lazy. And I don't want to have to order a new trim strip. So I used a couple of new, sharp razor blades to trim the flare a little so that it would ride on top of the PSC upper section. Make sure to remove the trim strip that would contact the PSC upper section or it will not seat when you try to replace the screws... Oh yeah, replace the screws in the fenders, pushing them toward the tub as you tighten.
Have an extra beer for doing this step!
Last edited by Rock Hands; 03-24-2011 at 08:16 PM.
03-25-2011, 05:41 AM
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I'm going to put my JKS Discos and front 1" Teraflex spacers (stupid rake) on this weekend. I'll post better shots then.
On the pop rivot thing... I don't know that I'd trust rivots to pull the upper section snug against the body. Nor would I spend $80 bucks on a tool to put the nut-serts in, unless I was installing these professionally... Just take your time and make the $1.25 washer mod. Drink less beer until the nut-serts are finished.
On the pop rivot thing... I don't know that I'd trust rivots to pull the upper section snug against the body. Nor would I spend $80 bucks on a tool to put the nut-serts in, unless I was installing these professionally... Just take your time and make the $1.25 washer mod. Drink less beer until the nut-serts are finished.
