My turn at using Raptor liner...
#61
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
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I'm mostly worried about the sound deadener, I scraped the crap out of that stuff, but I didn't have an air compressor sander or an angle grinder so I chiseled it with a flat tip screw driver til it was relatively flat and then hit it with sandpaper, it's (relatively) smooth but you can still see where it is in the tub after the primer has been put down. I'm just hoping that it turns out nice, if not the wife is gonna murder me
#62
There is some texture with the spray liner, but depending on how much of the sound deadening is left you may still beable to see it. Post a pic lets see what it looks like. I took mine up exactly how you did and then I used a wire wheel on a drill to get the rest down smooth, that seemed to work pretty good
#63
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Navasota, TX
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You could still see a little of the base material on mine before I sprayed it. After, you would have to really get close. The texture hides most of it, and the black color does a great job disguising the rest. Mine felt like running your fingers across the driveway. A little porous, but not really uneven. I did mine with a manual chisel and wire wheel and cup brush. It took FOREVER, but was worth it. I should have bought an air chisel though. I have one now. I know it can be intimidating, especially if it is your first time doing a mod that can be "undone", but after the first one, you don't sweat it anymore, and it's all down hill.
#64
JK Junkie
Started the prep work today for the raptor liner. Air chisel made short work of the sound insulation. Only took about 1 1/2 hrs to get it all out. Still lots of prep to do and the kit still hasn't arrived but i'm really stoked about this mod.
#65
JK Junkie
It's been mention before to remove the sound insulation not only for looks but also because it can retain moisture. About two years ago the driver side front and rear passenger area was under water. When I removed the insulation sure enough there was surface rust. Nothing on the passenger side which was never under water. Highly recommend to remove it if your doing this mod especially if the cab has been flooded
#66
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Carroll County, Md
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Took the back seats out. 14" breaker bar and a 18mm 1/2 inch ratchet.
I bought an impact gun, but it couldn't budge them. I musta been doing something wrong.
Next - reroute the wires and sand/prep the back.
I bought an impact gun, but it couldn't budge them. I musta been doing something wrong.
Next - reroute the wires and sand/prep the back.
#67
JK Junkie
Originally Posted by HDGreyrider
Took the back seats out. 14" breaker bar and a 18mm 1/2 inch ratchet.
I bought an impact gun, but it couldn't budge them. I musta been doing something wrong.
Next - reroute the wires and sand/prep the back.
I bought an impact gun, but it couldn't budge them. I musta been doing something wrong.
Next - reroute the wires and sand/prep the back.
#68
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Carroll County, Md
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Spent Saturday splicing 5' of 18 gauge into the wiring and the rear wiper fluid hose. Then took out all the front seats.
Sunday got up early and taped/wrapped everything before 11 am then it was time to shoot the raptor. The raptor gun provided worked fine and the final product exceeded my expectations.
Sunday got up early and taped/wrapped everything before 11 am then it was time to shoot the raptor. The raptor gun provided worked fine and the final product exceeded my expectations.
#70
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Join Date: May 2009
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Thanks, Yeah time consuming but worth it.
Carpet out 30 mins
Remove sound material 90 mins
Seats, moldings out 3 hours
splice wires 3 hours
Sanding cleaning 90 minutes
Taping off 2 1/2 hours
Painting 30 minutes per coat with 60 minute flash time 3 hours
3 Hour dry time
Seats and molding back in 2 hours
I ball park it at about 20 hours total I spent working on this.
I carefully put the seats back in last night using cardboard to avoid
scraping the material back off.
Have not figured out how to tuck the wiring up the door pillar.
There is a lot of plastic spines in there - not as much room as it looks
like there is. So they are just on the floor for now.
Carpet out 30 mins
Remove sound material 90 mins
Seats, moldings out 3 hours
splice wires 3 hours
Sanding cleaning 90 minutes
Taping off 2 1/2 hours
Painting 30 minutes per coat with 60 minute flash time 3 hours
3 Hour dry time
Seats and molding back in 2 hours
I ball park it at about 20 hours total I spent working on this.
I carefully put the seats back in last night using cardboard to avoid
scraping the material back off.
Have not figured out how to tuck the wiring up the door pillar.
There is a lot of plastic spines in there - not as much room as it looks
like there is. So they are just on the floor for now.