Here is a write up on how I built a deck/bridge to cover the hole that occurs when you lower the rear seat on an Unlimited. (not sure about the 2 door). I did this mostly to save my 90# dog from falling in the hole and hurting his leg when we travel with him.

Here is the final product:


Cost ~$22.00
Here's your material list:
1 Sheet THICK laminate flooring (mine is just over 1/4"). I found this gray 'slate' style at Home Depot. they gave me 1 sample sheet for FREE!!! (box of 6 is $26)
1 piano (continous) hinge at 4' length. I chose Brass since it does not rust.
3/16" LONG rivets for 1/2" gaps. I used Aluminum, again to prevent rusting.
#8X3/4" Stainless Steel Sheet metal screws (rust proof)
random tube of caulk.
3 Zip ties
3 Springs (medium duty with some good flex about 3-4" long compressed)
3 mini eye hooks for picture frames

Here is your tool list:
Table Saw
Light metal Hack Saw
Rivet Gun
Drill
Screwdriver
drill bits: 3/16" and one fitted for the SS screws (may vary) use a new one (trust me).

Prep:
Cut the piano hinge (at a hinge gap) to 9.5" and to 22.5" (roughly but not more than... My hinge sections were 1/2" increments)
Cut the Flooring to 2 pieces @ 10"X 11 7/8" and 10" X 27 3/16" (NOTE: I later had to trim the top half of larger piece to 26 13/16" for half the width of the board to clear the smaller seat upholstery and hardware)

I started with the smaller driver side board first and then did the passenger side:

With the seat laid down, Lay the hinge in between the seat brackets on the floor on the driver side. Lay the board with it and find out where everything fits without binding. Take your time and check front to back distance as the LATCH system bar (black metal that we will ziptie our spring to later) moves and can foul your board clearance when the seat is upright. see photo.



Once you get your fit, mark the location on the hinge/board and then attach the board to the hinge with the rivets, use the 3/16" drill for these holes, I riveted every hole.




Now place the assembly in the jeep and again check your alignments and where to set the hinge. Once again check that the LATCH bar does not foul your board.


Drill down in to the Jeep body (NOT with the 3/16" bit) a hole for the SS screws to be set in. I drilled through the carpet, which was a tad messy, the carpet will wind up, melt etc. the sharp drill did a better job then my dull one which I started with unknowingly. You can see the carpet that pulled up here:
NOTE: This is a very safe area to drill, most if not all screws will not penetrate to 'the outside' there is a reinforcement bar under there and you will be between the two pieces of metal. I did have 2 screw tips pop through and I caulked them from the outside/underneath to be safe.


Dip a screw in Caulk just for good measure


Then insert the screw through the hinge and carpet and into the Jeep body. Do NOT overtighten, just make sure it is holding.
Check again for fit/square and drill the remaining holes and insert caulk tipped screws. I generally ran a screw every other hole.

At this point you can do the other side in the same manner and be 'done' if you choose. I like things to be effortless, so I added a closing system as well.

First drill 3 small holes in line with the LATCH bar and about half way up the board with a pinvise drill.



Then screw in the 3 eyehooks and attach a spring to each one.
Using a zip tie secure the other end of the spring to the LATCH system bar.
This shot is almost in line with the board but you can see the springs and the eyescrew on the far end.

A better shot on the other side


This will pull the deck down when you lower the seat and help keep it down assuming it isn't too long :<)
Somewhere along the line I painted (magic markered) the cut edges black to finish the edge.

Now you're done. Enjoy!!!

Comments/Kudos welcome, I have a fragile ego

 

Great idea. I remember an old suv that had something like this factory made. Guess they have to save a few bucks somewhere.

 

You did a great job. Looks good.

I wrote a different writeup for this, but yours was much more percise and had great photos.

I originally used a steel tight mesh shelf cut to size (and then covered with rubber), but replaced it with 2 thick sheets of plastic cust to size, and slightly curved on the outside to follow the countours of the seat edge.

One thing thats been bugging me is how to close it automatically, so your spring solution was great.

I also liked the piano hings. I couldn't find one that would suit my needs, and I don't like drilling into the body, so I went with T hinges and attached them to the seat mounts.

Again, loved the writeup, and the spring idea.

Thanks

 

yea my 85 and 89 s 10 blazer had this i wondered why the jeep didnt have this factory......btw this is a great write up!

 

Thank you, I had seen your post prior to starting this project and considered aspects of what you wrote in to the design of mine.

 

Thanks,
Yeah, I used a cut to length 12X2 board for a while (it doubles as a ramp for my boat to go up/down the curb) but got tired of chasing it down in my back yard and putting it back etc. This is a permanent solution that I don't have to fuss with. (I'm inheriently lazy and will work hard to do whatever it takes to allow me to be lazier later).