Electricbug2011

This is my first real write up, so bear with me. I've been wanting to do this for some time. Today i finally got the last of my parts in and finished it. I used a Cobra 1500W continuous inverter with 3 AC outlets and 2 USB ports, and pulls about 120A when loaded up heavy. The manufacturer's website said to use a #4AWG, so I used #2 AWG welding cable due to the distance to get to the rear cargo area. I routed the wire thru the driver side grommet in the fire wall, here.. Then it was ran under the drivers side plastic to the rear, stubbing it out just behind the rear seat, here.. When Not being used, the cables can be tucked down behind the cargo mat and aren't even seen. As you can see in the picture, I used the quick connect cable ends to make it easy to remove the inverter when not in use, or when the Jeep is parked so that it won't get stolen. I also staggered the ends, one set (male and female) on the supply cables and one set on the inverter itself so there wouldn't be any chance of reversing polarity. Now I only ran ONE wire, the positive wire, from the battery to the rear area. The negative wire I took to a bolt that is behind the carpet just in front of the drivers side rear wheel, even with rear seat back, here. . It is the rear most bolt for the support bracket for the door strike. Now back to the hot wire. I used a CONTINUOUS USE, starter solenoid from a golf cart, and mounted it behind the battery, here. . It is rated 12V, 150A continuous/300A peak, and is a 4 post. The two big posts are the open set of contacts where you will connect the #2 AWG from the battery and to the inverter. The two smaller posts in the middle are the coil. I connected one to one of the little ground posts near the battery under the hood, and the other is fed from one of the switches on my A pillar pod! Now all i have to do is twist connect the inverter in, and throw the switch! This thing can run a skil saw! Gonna be great for Parades pulling my girls dance teams floats and such.

toolow262

Nice job

ronjenx

Nice!
Does your lead from the battery have the female connector on it?

I don't see a fuse or breaker in the hot wire, near the battery, though.

I used a resettable breaker:

Electricbug2011

Was gonna put one in but haven't found one yet. Where'd you get it?

ronjenx

Cooper Bussmann has them, in a variety of styles and amperage ratings. I bought mine at a local place that installs aux power systems in emergency vehicles.

jksteve2013

those things are horrible..

They can handle a sudden burst of grounding out but in long term, high amperage situations heat can do a number on the cheap plastic breakers.

ronjenx

I guess I'll have to test that to see how it handles a high amperage, but less than rated blow amperage. It's there to protect against a short, which would be the sudden burst you mention.
By long term high amperage, do you mean years of use at 90 amps on a 100 amp breaker?

I wouldn't call it a cheap plastic breaker.
Please recommended one that would be better. Edit 11 days later: I didn't think you would.

jksteve2013

I spend about 2 minutes a month on this website.

i wouldnt reccomend any of those shitty circuit breakers. Blade fuse is much better. There is a good reason no install shop offers circuit breakers when it comes to items like this as well as car stereo. they fail. all the time.

being patient is obviously something you have no clue about...also..i wasnt talking shit, i was offering advise after 15 years of high power car stereo builds. I have seen those circuit breakers melt and start fires time and time again...and in professionally installed situations.

also...run a 100 amp breaker at 90 amps and you will have issues. you are not supposed to load a breaker to more than 80% of its listed load capabilities. so a 100 amp breaker holds 80 amps. Im sure you know this tho.