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Installing Alloy USA (Factory Ten) CM front axles and CTM U-joints

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Old 02-26-2009, 04:44 AM
  #11  
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ok, seems pretty straight forward since i have in the past on prior non jeep vehicles removed the caliper and rotor to do brake work. My question is i have a stock D30 in front and what spline count can i install?
sorry for the noob question !
Old 02-26-2009, 08:35 AM
  #12  
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Just wanted to let everyone know...the "slinger" is the correct part. I just received them from the dealer.

The part # is 05083669AA. My dealer charged me $5 a piece for them.

Paul
Old 02-26-2009, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by roguejk
ok, seems pretty straight forward since i have in the past on prior non jeep vehicles removed the caliper and rotor to do brake work. My question is i have a stock D30 in front and what spline count can i install?
sorry for the noob question !
D30 is 27-spline.

Originally Posted by Paul R
Just wanted to let everyone know...the "slinger" is the correct part. I just received them from the dealer.

The part # is 05083669AA. My dealer charged me $5 a piece for them.

Paul
Thanks! This may be the cheapest thing I have ordered for my JK!
Old 02-27-2009, 07:23 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Paul R
Just wanted to let everyone know...the "slinger" is the correct part. I just received them from the dealer.

The part # is 05083669AA. My dealer charged me $5 a piece for them.

Paul
Thanks for following up on this. I'll up-date the write-up with your information and Ronjenx's torque numbers.

I took a close look at the "slinger" yesterday and it does have a number 4 on it.
Old 02-27-2009, 09:14 AM
  #15  
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[QUOTE=Paul R;963733]I got the answers to my own questions by calling Dave at Northridge...yes, the full circle clips replace the Spicer C clips, and they do fit into the grooves on the caps inside of the shaft ears. The spicer U-joints come pre-greased with the needle bearings installed, so that you just have to slip off the caps and put them back together as you assemble the joint inside of the shaft ears.

Make sure that you put the full circle clips on the u-joint BEFORE you press the caps in the ears of the axle. After the caps are pressed in then you should be able to open the clips enough to slide them up and snap them in the groove. There is no way to put the circle clips around the caps after they have been pressed in the axles. I made that mistake and assembled the axles and realized that I cant get the circle clips on. I was forced to use the C-clips which are much weaker.

I have no idea how to disassemble the axle after the caps have been pressed in so I will probably just take it to a driveline shop and have them do it.
Old 02-27-2009, 06:14 PM
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What did it cost to upgrade to the CM shafts? Total?
Old 02-28-2009, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by bone
What did it cost to upgrade to the CM shafts? Total?
Fronts and rears w/ CTM u-joints 1550.00 to my door.
Old 03-02-2009, 04:40 AM
  #18  
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I completely obsessed with this now because of this post, but I think the Centerforce clutch is going to be first...
Old 03-02-2009, 06:04 AM
  #19  
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I installed my shafts this weekend and it wasn't too bad of a job. As stated above, make sure you put the full circle clips over the U-joint arms BEFORE you put it into the shaft and press on the caps. I forgot one, and had to press the U-joint back out and restart.

One tip... moving the circle clips up into place after driving in the caps is pretty easy for the first half shaft...but once you put the other half of the shaft on, there is very little room to get your clip pliers in there to expand the clip. I found that the only way to do it is to go in the joint from the far side, through the gap by the U-joint, and grab the clip. Do be careful of the U-joint seal as you do this and don't scrape it up with the clip.

I had a Harbor Freight U-joint tool that I was going to use to press the caps in, but they proved to be so tight the tool couldn't press them in. I had to use the BFH and pound them in. The tool did come in handy when I had to press the U-joint back out after forgetting to put the circle clip on first, and it worked fine for that.

On my shafts there were some extra parts that weren't detailed in the original post. On each shaft were 1 or 2 small round guides (1 on the long shaft and 2 on the short one) that came out with the stock shafts when I pulled them. They looked like they were made of thin fiberboard or very tough cardboard. I believe these are the guides shown as part #5 on the drawing I posted earlier. They act as guides on the axle shaft and held it centered in the axletube when inserting the shaft. I just moved them from the stockers to the new shafts. They held the shaft centered while inserting it into the tube and made the job much easier.

Thanks for the original writeup here as it was invaluable and gave me the confidence that I could do this install. It really was not that hard. Assembling the U-joints into the shafts took the most time (about 90 minutes). The disassembly, install, and reassembly of the hubs, brake, and wheels only took about an hour. I did spend another hour removing the stock differential cover, cleaning off the gears, and installing my new Solid diff cover while I was doing this.

I took some pics, but just for myself and do not plan on posting them as they look remarkably similar to the pics already here (imagine that!).

---------
Paul

Last edited by Paul R; 03-02-2009 at 06:19 AM.
Old 03-22-2009, 08:14 PM
  #20  
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I'm glad I found this write up. My axles should be here tommorrow ( actually later today ). I want to install them when I get home from work. I hope the U joints come installed for me. They were when I ordered them for my TJ.


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