bstpierre

I ended up ditching my T-frame. I just run three strands of rope from the winch to three pulleys on the ceiling down to ratchet straps under the roof (in place of the three hooks on the end of the t-frame).

slinky

Any reason for this other than simplicity? I remember seeing a photo either in this thread or another DIY one where the nylon strap cracked the fiberglass in a corner.

bstpierre

My straps run just under the roof. They meet in the center in the back and come out each door opening. I was using the straps with the t-frame initially instead of the metal hooks.

Two advantages for me is I can lift it higher and it is more stable. It isn't going to rotate at all like it can with the single rope.

cfendya

Can I ask how you're powering the hoist here? I'd like to have mine on a track as well so I can move it but I don't see your power source.

cfendya

Do you have a photo of how you do this? I'm interested in the strap method as well over t-frame.

bstpierre

I don't have a good picture of this but I took a few today. Let me explain that I have a shelf that I store the hardtop on and that is how it is sitting right now. I feed the straps from the center of the rear window to each of the rear side doors (make sure you feed the strap on top of the roll bars!). I hook the straps to the three hooks that are suspended from the winch ropes. I crank the top up and drive the Jeep out of away. Then I hang the shelf from the chains and lower the top on to the shelf. Then I move the hooks from the straps to the shelf eyebolts. (I use some light cord to tie the straps in place so I don't have to run them again later.) then I winch the shelf as high as I can. This gives me more clearance under the Jeep then I could get with the t-bar and having the block and tackle between the top and the ceiling.

Here are some pictures.
The first one is a side view showing the top in the stored position.



Here you can see the straps tied into position. When I am lifting the top the strap is fastened to the hook instead of the hook being fastened to the shelf eyebolt.



here is a picture showing the rear of the top. Both straps meet in the center. It would probably work just as well to use four separate ropes instead of three like I have. I started with the t-bar, using the straps to fasten the top to the t-bar so I already had the V shape in my mind when I converted over.



Here is a closer picture Sowing a good view of the straps inside the top.



(Sorry about the poor quality photos, should have cleaned my lens first.)

Let me know if you have any other questions or if the is some detail you want a picture of.

cfendya

Thanks for all the great pictures and detailed explanation bstpierre. This is exactly how I was thinking of doing with the straps. I have a very high ceiling in my garage so I am going to be using a power hoist I picked up yesterday from Harbor Freight. It would've cost me almost the same had I purchased the hand winch plus extra cable and misc items as it did for this power hoist. For a little bit more I get a whole lot of convenience not having to mess with running cables and what not

I'll take some pics once I'm finished with it. Again, appreciate all the detail you provided as well as all the other members input on this subject here.

bstpierre

No problem.

I'm a mechanical engineer so I have a soft spot in my heart for pulleys and ropes. :-)

MyMtnHome

How about this method:
- $14 strap,
- $50 HF winch
- Rear hatch stays closed to minimize footprint
- Cables hook to the JK battery when it comes time to lift it

kleinrider

I ink I'd be scared to put the hook straight on the hardtop for fear of causing damage long term. What kind of force are you exerting on that front lip?