Hardtop hoist/storage write-up
#112
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We realized, even with mine how difficult it can be to take the hardtops off. This is good stuff.
#114
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To your question on the brand of winch: I bought the same Dutton-Lainson winch that HG97TJ used, but the brand of the winch is not as important as its characteristics, i.e. a vertical-lifting capability and the braking feature (essentially, the ability to hold the weight automatically, and continue holding it until it is cranked down). Of course, it must also be rated for the weight of the top and the T-bar.
This is a neat project -- certainly one of the best and most useful detailed on this forum. Good luck with it.
#115
almost there...
what a great write up...
I've had my jk for 2 months and finally decided to build this hoist since the Lange one gets such poor reviews.
I bought the pulleys, 3/8"x50' rope, slotted angle and lag bolts at OSH and it added up to $80 already.
Question:
[B]How do I attach the pulley to the slotted angle?[B] The quick links I bought (rated for 500lb - can't remember the size) are too fat to go through the slotted angle's holes. Just get smaller ones? I'm concerned about intoducing a weak link. Also everything, including the pulley is marked "not for over head use".
Also, instead of building the channel strut brace (since the T-gusset and L-connections are hard to find and I don't have a way of cutting the channel strut to size), I'm thinking of just using web-straps to attach the top to the pulley. Seems like it would be simple and lighter. Anyone tried that? Bad idea?
Thanks.
I've had my jk for 2 months and finally decided to build this hoist since the Lange one gets such poor reviews.
I bought the pulleys, 3/8"x50' rope, slotted angle and lag bolts at OSH and it added up to $80 already.
Question:
[B]How do I attach the pulley to the slotted angle?[B] The quick links I bought (rated for 500lb - can't remember the size) are too fat to go through the slotted angle's holes. Just get smaller ones? I'm concerned about intoducing a weak link. Also everything, including the pulley is marked "not for over head use".
Also, instead of building the channel strut brace (since the T-gusset and L-connections are hard to find and I don't have a way of cutting the channel strut to size), I'm thinking of just using web-straps to attach the top to the pulley. Seems like it would be simple and lighter. Anyone tried that? Bad idea?
Thanks.
#116
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I got one on Amazon recently for $44. Search their site for "Dutton-Lainson Brake Winch 800 lbs." And like Huklbery said, if you don't by this exact brand make sure you at least get a "brake winch" that's designed for overhead lifting. If you look at the pics in the original post you'll see in one of the steps that the winch is actually holding the weight of the hard top after it's been hoisted as the wood platform is being connected.
Last edited by HG07JKRubi; 07-08-2008 at 04:54 AM.
#117
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Question:
[b]How do I attach the pulley to the slotted angle?[b] The quick links I bought (rated for 500lb - can't remember the size) are too fat to go through the slotted angle's holes. Just get smaller ones? I'm concerned about intoducing a weak link. Also everything, including the pulley is marked "not for over head use".
Also, instead of building the channel strut brace (since the T-gusset and L-connections are hard to find and I don't have a way of cutting the channel strut to size), I'm thinking of just using web-straps to attach the top to the pulley. Seems like it would be simple and lighter. Anyone tried that? Bad idea?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Let me know if you have any further questions.
#118
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Also, instead of building the channel strut brace (since the T-gusset and L-connections are hard to find and I don't have a way of cutting the channel strut to size), I'm thinking of just using web-straps to attach the top to the pulley. Seems like it would be simple and lighter. Anyone tried that? Bad idea?
I considered using straps -- recovery straps, actually -- but I couldn't come up with a way to ensure that they wouldn't slip off and drop the top. This is particularly important because the top has a tendency to spin once it's liberated from the truck. In addition to getting the top as close to the ceiling as possible as HG97TJ points out, the T-Bar can be attached to the top securely AND it can be adjusted for the ideal front-rear balance point.
I bought the channel strut at my local Fastenal store, and the guys cut it for me on their horizontal band saw. However you cut it, make sure there's a full hole exactly in the center of the transverse length so that it balances left and right.
I considered using straps -- recovery straps, actually -- but I couldn't come up with a way to ensure that they wouldn't slip off and drop the top. This is particularly important because the top has a tendency to spin once it's liberated from the truck. In addition to getting the top as close to the ceiling as possible as HG97TJ points out, the T-Bar can be attached to the top securely AND it can be adjusted for the ideal front-rear balance point.
I bought the channel strut at my local Fastenal store, and the guys cut it for me on their horizontal band saw. However you cut it, make sure there's a full hole exactly in the center of the transverse length so that it balances left and right.
#119
JK Freak
Also, instead of building the channel strut brace (since the T-gusset and L-connections are hard to find and I don't have a way of cutting the channel strut to size), I'm thinking of just using web-straps to attach the top to the pulley. Seems like it would be simple and lighter. Anyone tried that? Bad idea?
I considered using straps -- recovery straps, actually -- but I couldn't come up with a way to ensure that they wouldn't slip off and drop the top. This is particularly important because the top has a tendency to spin once it's liberated from the truck. In addition to getting the top as close to the ceiling as possible as HG97TJ points out, the T-Bar can be attached to the top securely AND it can be adjusted for the ideal front-rear balance point.
I bought the channel strut at my local Fastenal store, and the guys cut it for me on their horizontal band saw. However you cut it, make sure there's a full hole exactly in the center of the transverse length so that it balances left and right.
I considered using straps -- recovery straps, actually -- but I couldn't come up with a way to ensure that they wouldn't slip off and drop the top. This is particularly important because the top has a tendency to spin once it's liberated from the truck. In addition to getting the top as close to the ceiling as possible as HG97TJ points out, the T-Bar can be attached to the top securely AND it can be adjusted for the ideal front-rear balance point.
I bought the channel strut at my local Fastenal store, and the guys cut it for me on their horizontal band saw. However you cut it, make sure there's a full hole exactly in the center of the transverse length so that it balances left and right.
Straps instead of Channel...
The problem with using web straps is the angle of the strap to the hook. Too acute an angle will increase the tension in the strap too much. A steeper angle & you lose your headspace.
For example, if you have a strap (sling) at a 45 degree angle then the tension in the angle is 1.44 times the weight on the sling. get that down to 5 degrees & it goes way up!
Also, here's a few tips....
Once you find your balance point, put a mark on the top with a silver permanent marker. This makes it easier to get the right spot every time.
I used a Harbor Freight 12v winch. Works great for temporary lifting (to put it on the shelf). I would not leave it unattended. Instead of keeping a battery around I use my charger/starter set to start & it has enough amps to operate the winch. I've seen some posts concerned with a winch slipping, but I have had no such problems. It's a 3000 lb winch with a pulley (6000 lbs) & it is lifting 95 lbs.
I put a pulley on winch now to slow the speed down & it works perfect.
Last edited by YellowToy; 07-23-2008 at 10:27 PM.