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Gearing

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Old 09-13-2009 | 08:45 AM
  #21  
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From: Camp Humphreys Korea
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Awsome write up man, I have my parts in the garage, and a list of the last few tools I need to get. Can't wait to get started and get this beasty together.
Old 09-13-2009 | 08:58 PM
  #22  
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Killer writeup. Thanks for posting this. I'll be using it in the not-too-distant future
Old 11-03-2009 | 03:16 PM
  #23  
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BlackNorthernJK - Amazing job! Really!

You've completely demystified this process. I think re-gearing remains beyond my mechanical abilities, but this education leaves me much more confident in my upgrade decisions and a much more informed customer.

My mechanic, I'm sure, will also benefit from your writeup because now that I understand the job, I'm willing to pay more to have this done

Great job!
Old 12-13-2009 | 10:06 AM
  #24  
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From: Vancouver, WA
Default I noticed the work "Patience"

Re-gearing is not difficult or some voodoo science that only a few can figure out. It's just time consuming and can be frustrating. Plus, having the right tools is required. If your patterns don't come out right after the third or forth try, your patience runs out VERY quickly.

I've done a couple re-gears and found it to be fun because I was working with a friend and we had beer and tunes!! But, I could see it turning ugly if I was on a tight time schedule and it was not going well.

Think of it this way if it helps. What is at least 10 hours of your time worth? Then add the cost of any special tools you don't have. Then add the downtime to your vehicle if you don't get it right...

In most cases, the $600-$800 in labor to have a shop do the job is worth it unless you are into it for a learning experience or because you really love wrenching.

Very very nice write up... But it's missing the graphics to explain how to read the contact patches. You could steal them from the document you can find at Yukon Gears website... *nudge nudge*. I don't think anyone would mind.
Old 12-13-2009 | 02:23 PM
  #25  
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I'd break something.... lol


Great write up though
Old 02-02-2010 | 09:58 AM
  #26  
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From: Big Rock, TN
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Just a note on carriers, i noticed that you said and I quote.
"The stock carrier in the front Dana 30 equipped with 3.21’s is only really good for just that gear ratio, throwing in 4.10’s and higher will require a carrier (or locker) of 3.73 and higher ratio...the divide usually occurs at 3.73 and higher and 3.73 and lower. " The divide is actually at 3.54 anything shorter will require that you change the carrier.
Old 02-03-2010 | 08:38 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by woodweavil
Just a note on carriers, i noticed that you said and I quote.
"The stock carrier in the front Dana 30 equipped with 3.21’s is only really good for just that gear ratio, throwing in 4.10’s and higher will require a carrier (or locker) of 3.73 and higher ratio...the divide usually occurs at 3.73 and higher and 3.73 and lower. " The divide is actually at 3.54 anything shorter will require that you change the carrier.
amended, thanks
Old 02-03-2010 | 08:40 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by DB_7
... But it's missing the graphics to explain how to read the contact patches. You could steal them from the document you can find at Yukon Gears website... *nudge nudge*. I don't think anyone would mind.
Thanks for remindin me...its one of those things I meant to get back to and finish, but all the pics and graphics are of my own making, didn't want to step on any copyright infringements
Old 02-09-2010 | 06:50 AM
  #29  
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Dude you say your not a mechanic?! Well you ought to be...Very informative post for the non-mechanics...
Old 02-09-2010 | 06:58 PM
  #30  
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Wow, very detailed. Great information though. Thanks for your effort



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