This is a write up on how I installed my garage door opener and used one of the blanks on my 2012 JK stock switch panel on the lower dash. A few people have written this up but my approach was slightly different. I had a few requirements going into the project. First, the remote had to be hidden to prevent someone from taking it when parked with the top down or doors off. Second, for additional security, the remote had to be disabled unless the key was in the ignition. Third, the power source had to be hard wired as I didn’t want to do any disassembly to replace a battery. And last, I didn’t want to drill any new holes in any part of the dash or console. I really like the stock look and did not want to deviate from that. So I decided to use one of the empty “buttons” on the stock switch panel.

I did the same thing on my old TJ but, since I did not have a switch panel to use, I wired it to the high beam switch. I would pull into the driveway, flick the high beams and voila.

The only specialty tools I used for this was an ohmmeter, to test the switch, a soldering iron and dremel tool.

To start, I had to convert one of the nonfunctioning buttons to be an actual button. The issue is that the unused factory buttons do not depress. After removing the switch bank, I pulled the blank I wanted to use and trimmed the bottom of the blank to allow it move along the swivel points.




The area in the circle below shows the material I removed with my dremel. You can see the difference between the one I modified and the unmodified one to the left.


The pic below shows the (now) button fully depressed.


The next thing to do is to have it function like an actual button. A button needs to spring back to its original position after being pressed and obviously needs to activate a switch. I solved both of these by using a micro momentary switch. I bought an assortment of switches in various sizes from Amazon. A 140 piece set cost me $9.00.


After a bit of trial and error, I used one of the ones labeled #8. This is what it looks like.


Below is a simple diagram of how the momentary switch functions.


Then I soldered the wires onto the leads. This is my Frankensolder.


Once soldered, I installed the switch in the panel and replaced the new switch plate. The shot of the back of the panel below shows the calk I used to keep it in place. I didn’t want to use epoxy in case I ever want to disassemble it.


Then came time to replace the circuit board and the rear covering. I found a part of the board that did not have any circuitry and used the dremel again to carve out a notch to allow the wires to pass through. I also drilled a hole in the rear cover to fish the wires through.


Then I replaced the switch panel and the reassembled the dash. You can’t even tell I was here.


Now onto the garage door remote. Through trial and error I found the two contacts that complete the circuit on the board of the remote that opens and closes the door. I wired these to a relay.


Below is the relay switch.


Again, I wanted to hard wire the power supply and keep it as secure as possible. I removed the battery from the remote and soldered the negative to ground and positive to a switched source that only supplies power when the ignition is switched on. The power supply to my head unit worked just fine.


Finally, I tucked everything behind the glove box and secured the relay to a screw I found on the blower motor.



So, the way it works is that when the Jeep is turned on, power is supplied to the remote. The button on the console is pressed, the relay completes the circuit on the remote and door opens and closes. It works perfectly for my use case. I’m sure there are several ways to do this but this satisfied all of my needs and requirements.

 

Nice job.
I like how you had a vision, and did what it took to make it happen.

 

This may be an odd question but what are you doing to change the voltage on the remote? They take small 1.5v batteries and now you've got 12v of juice flowing. Won't the components degrade over a short period of time? Who wouldn't like a better (and hidden) solution to the garage door opener?

 

Mine takes a small 12v battery. I would imagine his does, too.

 

My opener takes a 9v battery. I had actually been running this setup in my TJ for 6 years with no issues. When I sold it, I cut it out and installed it in the JK. I'm certainly no electrical expert but I guess 9 being so close to 12 is why I have never had a problem. I should have probably added a resistor but that is a bit above my pay grade.