Expanded instructions on Teraflex Leveling kits
01-15-2012, 06:18 PM
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Expanded instructions on Teraflex Leveling kits
Man,
When I picked this up and read the instructions, I thought "piece of cake". What I found was that it lacked in some finer detail when it came for making the axles droop enough for spring removal/installation. So below are some tips for the less mechanically inclined, but like to turn wrenches on their Jeeps:
Front Axles:
Unbolt the brake line retainer from the axle housing. It's only held on by one 10mm bolt, and tilts out. This will give you more than enough play.
Another little tidbit is that the nut for the stock drag links' pressed in joint is a course thread pattern, and even though it looks similair, it won't thread completely on the fine threaded 10.9 lower shock bolt.
Rear Axles:
Unbolt the brake line retainer from the frame with the same 10mm wrench.
Also, support the axle with the floor jack and lift it a little. Then (with the frame resting on jack stands, of course) crawl underneath the rear end and locate the two parking brake lines. You'll see that they both lead up to a retainer that is bolted to the underside of the body. Just reach up there and rotate the two lines out of the retainer.
Now, remove the lower shock bolt per Teraflex and slightly move it towards the rear of the jeep. This will expose the rear drag link's bottom bolt. Remove it, it will provide more play to easily install the new taller spring/ or spacer depnding on what you're doing. The one caveat for the rear is the wire loom that supplies the wheel sensors. Keep an eye on it when you are drooping the axle, they don't have as much play as the front axle. It would be easy to pull them too tight.
If you went with the spacers, the rear ones have a flanged nub in the center on the top side (the side facing the frame). Put some dish soap on that sucker and push the rear spacer into the centering hole on the frame mount for the spring (look underneath after removing the springs, you'll see what I'm talking about). You'll feel it "pop" into its' recess when it does.
Double check your work before buttoning up everything, and don't forget to put the E-brake lines bak into their retainer.
Hope this helps
When I picked this up and read the instructions, I thought "piece of cake". What I found was that it lacked in some finer detail when it came for making the axles droop enough for spring removal/installation. So below are some tips for the less mechanically inclined, but like to turn wrenches on their Jeeps:
Front Axles:
Unbolt the brake line retainer from the axle housing. It's only held on by one 10mm bolt, and tilts out. This will give you more than enough play.
Another little tidbit is that the nut for the stock drag links' pressed in joint is a course thread pattern, and even though it looks similair, it won't thread completely on the fine threaded 10.9 lower shock bolt.
Rear Axles:
Unbolt the brake line retainer from the frame with the same 10mm wrench.
Also, support the axle with the floor jack and lift it a little. Then (with the frame resting on jack stands, of course) crawl underneath the rear end and locate the two parking brake lines. You'll see that they both lead up to a retainer that is bolted to the underside of the body. Just reach up there and rotate the two lines out of the retainer.
Now, remove the lower shock bolt per Teraflex and slightly move it towards the rear of the jeep. This will expose the rear drag link's bottom bolt. Remove it, it will provide more play to easily install the new taller spring/ or spacer depnding on what you're doing. The one caveat for the rear is the wire loom that supplies the wheel sensors. Keep an eye on it when you are drooping the axle, they don't have as much play as the front axle. It would be easy to pull them too tight.
If you went with the spacers, the rear ones have a flanged nub in the center on the top side (the side facing the frame). Put some dish soap on that sucker and push the rear spacer into the centering hole on the frame mount for the spring (look underneath after removing the springs, you'll see what I'm talking about). You'll feel it "pop" into its' recess when it does.
Double check your work before buttoning up everything, and don't forget to put the E-brake lines bak into their retainer.
Hope this helps
