DIY 2 Dr Trunk for $80
#1
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DIY 2 Dr Trunk for $80
Ok so I am in the process of adding a subwoofer and a few amps to my 2 Dr 07 JK and since I mostly run with no top I decided I needed a trunk to keep these items from walking off too easily.
No drilling / modifications to the jeep are required for this build.
So here's the parts list:
1. One sheet of 3/4" plywood - free (normally about $25 / sheet, this is enough for two)
2. One can of Minwax wood sealer spray - $5.99
3. 2 yds of black marine grade vinyl @ $25 / yd - $50
4. Qty 2 4" slide bolts at $5 each - $10
5. Qty 2 hinges @ $5 each - $10
6. One roll of 3/4" foam weather stripping - $4
7. Three nights working in the garage in TX heat - priceless
Grand total - $79.99
I made the template for the rear lid out of scrap MDF first. This served 2 purposes, if I cut too much off I was still ok, and I was planning on making another trunk for a friend once finished with the first one. It took a little while to cut, fit, re-cut but well worth it.
The slide bolts are used as the locking mechanism to keep the lid in place, only accessible once the tailgate is opened, and they can be locked in place if you really want to.
I wrapped both pieces in black vinyl, there are more tear resistant materials out there but I liked the simple look.
I had planned on using 2 "T" brackets with the bottom of the T pushed into the child restraint brackets at the bottom of the rear seat to keep it from being pulled forward, but when i installed the trunk I realized it is nearly impossible to get past the back portion even with the seat up, so I decided to leave it as is and I can still use the restraint brackets for the kids car seats.
Here's the pics:
Sorry I didn't get a better picture of how it locks in, but basically there are two drain holes on the inside of the roll cage bars that point towards each other. They are at the perfect height so that the slide bolts connected directly to the underside of the lid slide in perfectly. The bolts I got have holes at the ends that a bolt and nut could be fit through to prevent the bolt from sliding back if you prefer.
This is as far as the rear lid will open up once the top is locked down.
Now onto the point of building this in the first place... the amp and sub install, wish me luck!
No drilling / modifications to the jeep are required for this build.
So here's the parts list:
1. One sheet of 3/4" plywood - free (normally about $25 / sheet, this is enough for two)
2. One can of Minwax wood sealer spray - $5.99
3. 2 yds of black marine grade vinyl @ $25 / yd - $50
4. Qty 2 4" slide bolts at $5 each - $10
5. Qty 2 hinges @ $5 each - $10
6. One roll of 3/4" foam weather stripping - $4
7. Three nights working in the garage in TX heat - priceless
Grand total - $79.99
I made the template for the rear lid out of scrap MDF first. This served 2 purposes, if I cut too much off I was still ok, and I was planning on making another trunk for a friend once finished with the first one. It took a little while to cut, fit, re-cut but well worth it.
The slide bolts are used as the locking mechanism to keep the lid in place, only accessible once the tailgate is opened, and they can be locked in place if you really want to.
I wrapped both pieces in black vinyl, there are more tear resistant materials out there but I liked the simple look.
I had planned on using 2 "T" brackets with the bottom of the T pushed into the child restraint brackets at the bottom of the rear seat to keep it from being pulled forward, but when i installed the trunk I realized it is nearly impossible to get past the back portion even with the seat up, so I decided to leave it as is and I can still use the restraint brackets for the kids car seats.
Here's the pics:
Sorry I didn't get a better picture of how it locks in, but basically there are two drain holes on the inside of the roll cage bars that point towards each other. They are at the perfect height so that the slide bolts connected directly to the underside of the lid slide in perfectly. The bolts I got have holes at the ends that a bolt and nut could be fit through to prevent the bolt from sliding back if you prefer.
This is as far as the rear lid will open up once the top is locked down.
Now onto the point of building this in the first place... the amp and sub install, wish me luck!
Last edited by JKCobra; 08-26-2008 at 07:31 AM. Reason: Fixed picture links, I hope.
#5
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Nice idea.
My only question is when lifting up the lid, what holds the back in place? It looks like it'd be excellent if you were leaving it in place, but I can't tell how it'd be if you opened/closed it a lot.
My only question is when lifting up the lid, what holds the back in place? It looks like it'd be excellent if you were leaving it in place, but I can't tell how it'd be if you opened/closed it a lot.
#7
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When I install my amps and sub they will likely be fitted to the tailgate, so opening the tailgate gives clear access to the entire area / clearance for opening the jack area.
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How is it putting down the top since there really isnt any space for the top to "go into"? Looks awesome, and planning on doing the same - just curious how it acts with the top
#9
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Very nice. I just finished working on one I designed today. Mine is basically the same but I have mine fitting inside my hardtop and will also work with the hard top off. I'll post up my pics sometime this week.
Nice job.
Nice job.