center console switch and power panel (hard-mounted inverter)
03-27-2010, 09:24 PM
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center console switch and power panel (hard-mounted inverter)
Center Console Switch and Power Panel Writeup
Background
So I ran out of switches on my previous panel, and I was searching for another discrete place to put a second panel for a few things, mainly my dual battery status LED and jumper switch. I also really liked the idea of hard mounting an inverter as demonstrated by Iblowstuffup over on this (hilarious) thread.
Unfortunately, most of the work took place at night, so I have limited in-work pics, but I think the completed shots tell the story.
Parts List
TOTAL COST: About $140 all-in, including the inverter.
Procedure
1. Choose an inverter. I picked up a 400W "Rhino" inverter at Fry's. Primarily, I was looking for a detachable front panel with sockets that I could pop out and use in my own panel. Also, you'll want to make sure you have a place to mount it. Most inverters of this size should fit in the spot I chose for mine under the glove box.
2. Prep the inverter for hard wiring. I wanted a remote turn-on switch in addition to the socket, so I removed one of the two sockets, tapped into the switch wiring, and routed the switch leads out the hole:
3. Go to Front Panel Express (frontpanelexpress.com) to design your panel. It's an awesome service where you download a little piece of CAD software (Mac version coming soon, I'm told) and spec out your panel. The software bundles up the order and submits it, and about two weeks later your panel arrives in the mail. Mine cost $34. Amazing. I was able to pull the switch hole measurements straight from the specs, and I measured my AC plug to within a few thousandths.
4. Mount the inverter in your chosen spot. I used three large zip ties and wrenched them down tight. It seems a little hokey, but it really holds the inverter very solidly to the under-dash location, which is an awkward place to try and drill. Pay attention to ventilation, and make sure you have room to wire everything up:
5. Wire the inverter. I used 8AWG from the battery, since this thing can draw north of 30A at its peak. I ran the switch and AC power wires up the center console. This pic is before I finished bundling the wires and cleaning them up, but you get the idea:
6. Install the panel. I was initially planning to use allen-head machine bolts here, but there are some little plastic protrusions behind the panel that prevent this. I went with some nice looking self-tappers from OSH that I think actually came out better because they sit more flush.
A note on the "IGN SW OVERRIDE" switch: I recently did a pretty extensive accessory relay and fuse panel job, and I designed it such that my accessories are normally switched with the ignition. However, I've had my CB wired this way for a while, and I find it annoying on trail runs to have to leave the rig running to use my radio, so I created a circuit that will power the accessories when this switch is on regardless of the ignition switch position. It's working pretty well so far.
Well, that's about it. Sorry for the lack of in-progress pics. Happy to answer any questions anyone has.
Background
So I ran out of switches on my previous panel, and I was searching for another discrete place to put a second panel for a few things, mainly my dual battery status LED and jumper switch. I also really liked the idea of hard mounting an inverter as demonstrated by Iblowstuffup over on this (hilarious) thread.
Unfortunately, most of the work took place at night, so I have limited in-work pics, but I think the completed shots tell the story.
Parts List
- Custom switch panel (frontpanelexpress.com, about $35)
- 400W inverter (Fry's, about $40)
- 1x Honeywell mini rocker switch, momentary ON (mouser.com, p/n MRS93-18BB, $1.99)
- 2x Honeywell SPDT mini rocker (mouser.com, p/n MRS93-12BB, $1.72 ea)
- 2x Honeywell lighted mini rocker (mouser.com, p/n MR93-124B3, $4.08)
- 4x torx drive "auto trim screws" (OSH, <$1 ea)
- 12V LED w/ integral resistor (Fry's, $2)
- 12 ft. total 8 AWG wire for inverter hookup (West Marine, $2.99/ft.)
- Misc. 18 AWG TXL wire (kayjayco.com, $0.23/ft.)
- Assorted woven wire loom, electrical tape, spade connectors, solder, etc.
TOTAL COST: About $140 all-in, including the inverter.
Procedure
1. Choose an inverter. I picked up a 400W "Rhino" inverter at Fry's. Primarily, I was looking for a detachable front panel with sockets that I could pop out and use in my own panel. Also, you'll want to make sure you have a place to mount it. Most inverters of this size should fit in the spot I chose for mine under the glove box.
2. Prep the inverter for hard wiring. I wanted a remote turn-on switch in addition to the socket, so I removed one of the two sockets, tapped into the switch wiring, and routed the switch leads out the hole:
3. Go to Front Panel Express (frontpanelexpress.com) to design your panel. It's an awesome service where you download a little piece of CAD software (Mac version coming soon, I'm told) and spec out your panel. The software bundles up the order and submits it, and about two weeks later your panel arrives in the mail. Mine cost $34. Amazing. I was able to pull the switch hole measurements straight from the specs, and I measured my AC plug to within a few thousandths.
4. Mount the inverter in your chosen spot. I used three large zip ties and wrenched them down tight. It seems a little hokey, but it really holds the inverter very solidly to the under-dash location, which is an awkward place to try and drill. Pay attention to ventilation, and make sure you have room to wire everything up:
5. Wire the inverter. I used 8AWG from the battery, since this thing can draw north of 30A at its peak. I ran the switch and AC power wires up the center console. This pic is before I finished bundling the wires and cleaning them up, but you get the idea:
6. Install the panel. I was initially planning to use allen-head machine bolts here, but there are some little plastic protrusions behind the panel that prevent this. I went with some nice looking self-tappers from OSH that I think actually came out better because they sit more flush.
A note on the "IGN SW OVERRIDE" switch: I recently did a pretty extensive accessory relay and fuse panel job, and I designed it such that my accessories are normally switched with the ignition. However, I've had my CB wired this way for a while, and I find it annoying on trail runs to have to leave the rig running to use my radio, so I created a circuit that will power the accessories when this switch is on regardless of the ignition switch position. It's working pretty well so far.
Well, that's about it. Sorry for the lack of in-progress pics. Happy to answer any questions anyone has.
Last edited by mmccurdy; 04-27-2010 at 01:55 PM.
03-28-2010, 02:53 AM
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JK Freak
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Wow, very nice job and nice pictures. This is what makes Jeeps great is doing cool stuff like this. This is the first switch panel I've seen in the console rather than the dash. 
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03-28-2010, 07:57 PM
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JK Super Freak
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If you mean the hinged top cover of the center console storage box, there is no visible difference inside there -- there is a void between the outer wall where I mounted the panel, and the inner wall of the storage compartment.
If you mean the top of the center console itself (shifter ring, cup holders, etc.) then I am not likely to snap a pic of that any time soon since it's a mild to moderate pain in the butt to open that thing up.
If you mean the top of the center console itself (shifter ring, cup holders, etc.) then I am not likely to snap a pic of that any time soon since it's a mild to moderate pain in the butt to open that thing up.
