4-Point Hard Top Lift
#11
Same here, I have one single cable coming from an electric hoist. I have it pretty well balanced, but it still starts to turn ever so slightly. This would take care of any spinning.
#13
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Thanks for the encouragement!!!
This was a blast to build and I am glad other's have an interest. When I reviewed the other builds the balance and rotation issue kept going through my head. Regardless, they are very good builds. The inspiration of the other builds got me to thinking about the single point lift issues and caused me to modify it with a 4 point method. The spirit of the DIY also presented the low-cost but sound methodology!
I do think using straps in place of the rope would make a better build. If anyone is interested in this build consider using straps in place of rope and I am looking for different hooks. Nonetheless, the first build worked great.
I have to admit I did use some of my geek qualities and calculated the stresses before using the PVC method. However, when I saw the minimal stresses and also tested some holding capabilities as well as the low friction characteristics I did decide it was a no brainer to proceed with the build.
The attachment to the 2x4s isn't that complicated. Photo's are shown below. I used 5/16" carriage head machine bolts with fender washers to diistribute the load. The cheap version of the fender washers conform to the PVC nicely and distribute the load. I will post the details when I have more time but if I recall the washer for the bolts were 3/8". I attached the couple of 4" PVC pipe bearings that needed horizontal support with wood screws and 1/4" washers. The backside of the 2x4 was countersunk and included a large OD fender washer.
This is a picture of the typical connection of the 4in PVC pipe/bearing supports. The bolt is a 5/16" carriage head with a 3/8" wahser to distribute the load. The first thng I did was support and bounce my 225 lbs on a single bearing and 3" pipe and found minimal give! It also rotated easily.
Below is the backside of the 2x4 showing the fender washer and the 5/16" nut. Depending on your tools you can achieve the countersink multiple ways. I did have a Forstener bit set and cheated a bit, but a cheap flathead wood bit wood achieve the same result.
Sheet rock screw attachment to horizontal supports with a 1/4" washer for load distribution.
I will submit a more detailed layout of the build as soon as I can. It may be a few days but I will get it posted.
Thanks for the compliments and I can't wait for some improvements to the build!!
This was a blast to build and I am glad other's have an interest. When I reviewed the other builds the balance and rotation issue kept going through my head. Regardless, they are very good builds. The inspiration of the other builds got me to thinking about the single point lift issues and caused me to modify it with a 4 point method. The spirit of the DIY also presented the low-cost but sound methodology!
I do think using straps in place of the rope would make a better build. If anyone is interested in this build consider using straps in place of rope and I am looking for different hooks. Nonetheless, the first build worked great.
I have to admit I did use some of my geek qualities and calculated the stresses before using the PVC method. However, when I saw the minimal stresses and also tested some holding capabilities as well as the low friction characteristics I did decide it was a no brainer to proceed with the build.
The attachment to the 2x4s isn't that complicated. Photo's are shown below. I used 5/16" carriage head machine bolts with fender washers to diistribute the load. The cheap version of the fender washers conform to the PVC nicely and distribute the load. I will post the details when I have more time but if I recall the washer for the bolts were 3/8". I attached the couple of 4" PVC pipe bearings that needed horizontal support with wood screws and 1/4" washers. The backside of the 2x4 was countersunk and included a large OD fender washer.
This is a picture of the typical connection of the 4in PVC pipe/bearing supports. The bolt is a 5/16" carriage head with a 3/8" wahser to distribute the load. The first thng I did was support and bounce my 225 lbs on a single bearing and 3" pipe and found minimal give! It also rotated easily.
Below is the backside of the 2x4 showing the fender washer and the 5/16" nut. Depending on your tools you can achieve the countersink multiple ways. I did have a Forstener bit set and cheated a bit, but a cheap flathead wood bit wood achieve the same result.
Sheet rock screw attachment to horizontal supports with a 1/4" washer for load distribution.
I will submit a more detailed layout of the build as soon as I can. It may be a few days but I will get it posted.
Thanks for the compliments and I can't wait for some improvements to the build!!
#16
I used the same winch that you did. Take a look at the mesh of the gears vs the slop in the system. I attached mine so that the weight of the top pulls the gears together instead of pulling apart. I'd hate to see a post about gears jumping off and the top falling to the ground.
I like the pvc system.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...&postcount=242
I like the pvc system.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...&postcount=242
#17
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Thanks BigddayH!!
I did notice the minimal tooth engagement of the gears and it bothered me a bit. I even tried to loosen and move the gears closer but I realized this was a temporary fix. With your comment I am going to rotate it so the rope force pulls the gears together. Probably less than a 5 minute job.
I am also going to add a tie off for security once it is lifted as you mentioned in your post. I have some ideas for this and I think I can add a simple way to secure this cheaply and securely. I'm thinking a carribiner and rope loop or maybe some type of rope grab.
If anyone has any suggestions for this please let me know.
I did notice the minimal tooth engagement of the gears and it bothered me a bit. I even tried to loosen and move the gears closer but I realized this was a temporary fix. With your comment I am going to rotate it so the rope force pulls the gears together. Probably less than a 5 minute job.
I am also going to add a tie off for security once it is lifted as you mentioned in your post. I have some ideas for this and I think I can add a simple way to secure this cheaply and securely. I'm thinking a carribiner and rope loop or maybe some type of rope grab.
If anyone has any suggestions for this please let me know.
#19
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I used large utility hooks that I found at Lowe's (I'm sure other home center's have the same ones). I found them in the section where you can buy all sorts of utility hooks and the like. They are meant to be screwed in a wall but the shape worked great with a fisherman's knot on the rope and is very secure. I will post pictures tomorrow as I'm in bed and my pics are on my desktop computer.
Also, you could do the PVC lift for a total cost of around $65 which is considerably cheaper than the lift you are looking at (including the hooks).
I have since added some foam padding to the hooks just to make me feel better but it seemed fine without it.
Also, you could do the PVC lift for a total cost of around $65 which is considerably cheaper than the lift you are looking at (including the hooks).
I have since added some foam padding to the hooks just to make me feel better but it seemed fine without it.
#20
I did use the Rancor lift (it was more money), it worked real well. So far I am using 400 LB tie down straps to hold it to the lift. I'll look for those hooks you referenced. 4 point is very stable and much better than all those 3 point lifts that are either home grown or commercially available. The nice thing about this lift is that it has a metal mesh grate on the top, so I can store the front half of the roof above the back half.