scooby snacks

Make sure that you have all 'idiot' lights corrected. Dealers don't won't to sink a lot of money in your trade when they aren't exactly sure what your issues are. Also, you should negotiate the price of your new vehicle separate of the trade. This way you get the max off the new one. Keep in mind when you do this your trade will be lower as they will give you 'actual cash value'. My experience is they will give you $5K less then they will list it for. This way they can let the next buyer negotiate them down a few thousand and still make bank on your vehicle.

Selling it privately is your best bet... please be honest about the Jeeps issues. I know you are young so learn from others. It is better to get less and have integrity with your business dealings and not negatively impact a new Jeeper.

Good luck!

03fatboy

$20K on a loaded 08 JKU 6 speed soft top, stock lockers, e-disco, XHD front and rear bumpers w/winch w/< 20K miles.

CottonFire

Getting a JKU next week. The dealer is giving me $17k for my bone stock 2008 X. Manual NO A/C...bone ass stock. Your getting effed over bud. Go somewhere else.

Kapone

I got $18k for my 07 rubi 2dr with 52k miles on it soft top. Bought a 2012 Rubi.

Texas.

Bumble

I got about the same for the exact same vehicle... so $6500 is def way off.

Sullicon

A couple of you have said this as well. Treating your trade-in and new purchase as two seperate things is very good advise. I have watched a few car deals go down where the back and forth price goes down without any talk of how it would be "purchaced". With the dealer thinking they are going to get financing ontop of the vehicle sale, they go a tad lower on the vehicle price with the intent of making some back from the financing and charges.
I watched my old man do this a few times, it is kind of funny. He gets the price figured out and then whips out his check book and writes a check for the exact amount that was agreed upon. When the dealer sees that, they start running around in circles trying to add on a bunch of fees and charges. He walks out the door at that point and they always follow him out the door and submit to the deal. It is sooooo funny.

When he goes to the dealer, he will drive around the lot in his vehicle to find the one he wants with the sales people hovering around the lot waiting for him to park, then when he does, and they pounce on him, they always ask "what can I do for you today"... he always stairs right at them and says, "wash my car"... and he waits.. if they actually do it, he talks to them about a sale, if not, he goes and finds a different salesman.

My point is, don't listen to ANYTHING a car salesman says, they are ALL liars (I am sure there are a couple that aren't, don't flame me). Figure out what you are going to do before go and don't budge. Don't take their low ball offer as an insult, it is in their blood.

eraujk

For those that noticed the problems with my jeep on the first post. I wasn't actually at the dealership to look at jeeps. i was there to get stuff fixed. So there wasn't a plan to just walk away without mentioning my jeep has a few problems right now. but back on topic.

I know a private deal will get me more with my current mods than at a dealership. I bought my jeep fro $17,500 stock X model. Are JKUs that much more that some of you are getting 18k back on a trade? The one i looked at yesterday with lift, tires, sliders, back and front bumpers, winch, was about 29

Joe Boxer

Generally speaking... just because KBB notes a vehicle being worth $10,000, that doesn't mean a dealer has to give you $10,000 for it. They may start with a similar number, but what they offer you is going to be net of reconditioning, any repairs they feel are needed, and what they think they can get for the vehicle through auction or resale. If they buy the vehicle from you for $10,000 and that is what it is worth to the public... they won't make money on the transaction. In all sincerity, and coming back to your situation, $3,000 difference isn't much when you consider the reconditioning, potential repairs, and the whole part where this is a business and they won't follow-through with the transaction unless they can make money.

Joe Boxer

Bent axles can happen from hitting something as subtle as a pothole. Now, if that classifies as negligence on the driver's part, so be it.

Here in Denver, the potholes swallow Smart cars.

hypeiv

Dealers will always try to low ball you... they probably get lucky lots of times and get a car for a real steal.

The best way to avoid getting ripped off is to slow down and don't fall in love with the new car until the deal is done. You have to be willing to walk away if the deal isn't right. Your best bet is to check NADA, KBB, Edmunds and the Black Book value. I have found that NADA and Black Book seem to be closer to what the vehicle are going for at auction. Basically when the dealership looks at a trade, they are either going to ship it to an auction and unload it, or try to recondition it and put it on their used lot. They are unlikely to pay more than they could pay at an auction b/c from their point of view they could just wait for the next one to show up at auction and try to snatch that one instead of yours.

I would just stick to your guns to the NADA prices, shop your car around to several dealers and just wait for the right deal. When you get in a hurry and say "I want a new car this weekend" you are going to end up paying more.