04 RUBI

I did not know that.
Makes sense though.
Thanks.

MountainJK

... only on the click style, it unloads the spring, the beam type doesn't matter.
Temperature will affect them too. A cold wrench won't torque the same, so click it a few time before use. Build up to your max setting in stages or incerments.

The biggest thing to remeber is your get what you pay for... I've checked new out of the box wrenches and they have been out. Get a good one.

goaterguy

It all depends on what use you are going to give it.

I have 5 vehicles total and I use my $10 Harbor Freight torque wrench on them. I clean my tools after each use, on the TW, reset it to zero and put it back on it's case every time I use it.

We had this discussion on the GTO forum a while ago.
Facts:

Craftman click type torque wrench = ~$60 + Made in China (go to the store and check, I did) + 90 days warranty

Harbor Freight click type TW = ~$10 + Made in China + Lifetime warranty

A professional mechanic in the forum even bought it and compared it to his proffessional TW and he mentioned that it was very accurate.

indyjeep

I have been borrowing a friends Craftsman click type and bought a $25 at Harbor Frieght Yesterday - nearly identical in every way.

Mixilpidilstick

I use a Torque Wrench that was purchased from Harbor Freight about 15 years ago. We always set it back to zero when we are done. It seams to work well. I can't say how accurate it is, but it seems consistent.

I actually like the some of the hand tools from harbor freight. I will admit they are not the best quality, but considering the price I feel they are worth it. I use to be a big craftsmen fan. These days the craftsmen tools are junk.

MountainJK

OK, just don't just it to do your heads or anything that has specific torque setting.
If you just need to know how snug a bolt is thats ok...

The goal is to remain tight on the fastener during all loads and vibration.
Bolt head friction is 45% of applied torque
Tread friction is up to 45% of applied torque
Then load distribution over all treads
and bolt stretch is 10% of applied torque

A poorly torqued fastener can fail quickly from fatigue creating a potentially unsafe situation.

Get it done right,
if the component you tighten may put your safety at risk.

Mark Doiron

I think you need to be more specific than that. I have a whole shop of mostly Craftsman tools that I've accumulated over the years. Some folks say they were made better in the old days--horse-puckey! Yes, there are some tools that they now make more cheaply, using plastic where there used to be metal. But, this is primarily in the power tools area--say a table saw. The newer tools like that are larger and uglier looking than the older ones because plastic takes more mass to have the same strength as metal. I have a router table that is made of metal and works fine. Looking at the plastic piece of junk that they now offer, I'm so happy to have bought before they switched to plastic. I could really use a new disk/belt sander, but the old one I have is mostly metal, while the new ones are cheap plastic.

However, those comments do not apply to their hand tools and torque wrenches. The hand tools are mostly still very well made. They may not be Snap-on or Protool quality, but they are good enough for a home mechanic. As for the torque wrenches specifically:

1. The Craftsman beam bender is a pain the rear to use. I was delighted to get rid of mine. If you plan to install a lift with it, make certain to have someone to read it while you struggle to get 125 pounds of force on the control arms.

2. Some of the Craftsman click-type have a plastic locking ring for the setting. They've always had this plastic locking ring, and it is easily broken. To read the comments on the Sears website, you'd think that a broken locking ring makes the wrench unusable. No, it doesn't. It just means that you need to be careful to not turn the handle and change your torque setting. BTW: They've always had this plastic ring--for decades. You'd think they'd read their own user's comments on their own website and do a little redesign.

3. Yes, on resetting the torque wrench to zero. Well, not really zero. In the lowest 20% of its range (since many torque wrenches aren't calibrated all of the way down to zero).

4. I don't know where Craftsman torque wrenches are made today. Mine was in the U.S.A., but I've had it a few years. Most Craftsman tools are still made in the U.S.A. But, some of their power tools are made overseas. Probably the only Craftsman tool I've ever owned that disappointed me is an impact wrench. It was made in China. Piece of crap. I looked at other Craftsman impact tools and some are okay, some not so okay. Now, I'm a lot pickier with impact tools. But, I do have their impact sockets and they are well made (and made in U.S.A.).

5. Get a 1/2" torque wrench that goes to 150 foot-pounds. That's enough to torque pretty much anything you'll run into on the JK. And it's not so high that you don't have the lower settings that you'll need.

Mixilpidilstick

They are defiantly made with cheaper materials these days. The internal components of the ratchets are mostly plastic. Many of the cast components use a lower quality metal that is far more brittle. I have also noticed that they are more prone to rust than the older tools. The craftsman tools that I got 25 years ago are great and I still use them. Most of the craftsman tools I have got in the last five years have already been taken back for replacement. For me that is a 40 mile drive.

With the power tools, if you get the contractors grade stuff you will be happy. I don't care for the rest of it. That's pretty much the way it has always been.