What are a set of Rubicon take off 44's worth?
#1
What are a set of Rubicon take off 44's worth?
I've been looking for a set of 44's with 4:10's and lockers for my '14 Willys. What is a nice set worth? I found one set with very low miles for $3,500, but have seen them go as low as $2,500 with low miles. Any help would be appreciated.
#2
Varies a bit based on location. $3500 is not a bargain nor are you getting robbed. I've seen buddies actually get $4k for stock rubi 44s but you have to find the right buyer. If you can find low mileage rubi axles for $2500....you'd better scoop em fast, cuz that's a bargain. I think in that $3k - $3500 is probably where most end up. Few years back you used to be able to snag a brand new crated rubi front axle for $1800 on ebay. Nowadays seems like can't find one under $2k at all.
If you find one, you might slap some C gussets on there prior to install. There will never be a more opportune time to do that. I'd even go so far as to say slap some decent ball joints in right then as well. Good luck on your hunt!
If you find one, you might slap some C gussets on there prior to install. There will never be a more opportune time to do that. I'd even go so far as to say slap some decent ball joints in right then as well. Good luck on your hunt!
#3
Yep, what resharp001 said. Around my neck of the woods they tend to be on the higher end (approaching $4K). And echoing what he said, put the C gussets and good ball joints on before you put them under your rig. Might also consider skids for the lower control arms.
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07WrangX (06-27-2018)
#4
Varies a bit based on location. $3500 is not a bargain nor are you getting robbed. I've seen buddies actually get $4k for stock rubi 44s but you have to find the right buyer. If you can find low mileage rubi axles for $2500....you'd better scoop em fast, cuz that's a bargain. I think in that $3k - $3500 is probably where most end up. Few years back you used to be able to snag a brand new crated rubi front axle for $1800 on ebay. Nowadays seems like can't find one under $2k at all.
If you find one, you might slap some C gussets on there prior to install. There will never be a more opportune time to do that. I'd even go so far as to say slap some decent ball joints in right then as well. Good luck on your hunt!
If you find one, you might slap some C gussets on there prior to install. There will never be a more opportune time to do that. I'd even go so far as to say slap some decent ball joints in right then as well. Good luck on your hunt!
#5
If you are set with 4.10 gears, and you don't plan to go all crazy off roading KOH style, swapping to rubi axles makes a lot of sense.
I will say, if you really plan on building em up, will need to regear at some point, and wheel pretty hard, you put a lot of money in to em and you end up with something that is still inferior to a PR44. Even gusset and truss don't help equal things out in regards to strength in the tubes. The rubi e-locker is weaker than what you'd get in an aftermarket, you stuck with the factory caster setting, and once you weld on gussets you hamper your ability and/or limit your options to outboard shock mounts should you ever want to.
I'm not trying to talk you out of it at all, just food for thought in case it's pertinent to your build and use. I swapped to rubi axles and built em up along the way, so I'm just familiar with the path. My route was buying one of those $1800 fronts, and I sourced a rear here off the forum. two axles were $2900. Gussets went on immediately along with ball joints. Regeared along the way, then added truss, 1/4" control arm brackets and shock mounts, and still had to chop up some Metalcloak shock outboarding brackets and weld them on to the new 1/4" artecs cuz I needed more clearance.
I will say, if you really plan on building em up, will need to regear at some point, and wheel pretty hard, you put a lot of money in to em and you end up with something that is still inferior to a PR44. Even gusset and truss don't help equal things out in regards to strength in the tubes. The rubi e-locker is weaker than what you'd get in an aftermarket, you stuck with the factory caster setting, and once you weld on gussets you hamper your ability and/or limit your options to outboard shock mounts should you ever want to.
I'm not trying to talk you out of it at all, just food for thought in case it's pertinent to your build and use. I swapped to rubi axles and built em up along the way, so I'm just familiar with the path. My route was buying one of those $1800 fronts, and I sourced a rear here off the forum. two axles were $2900. Gussets went on immediately along with ball joints. Regeared along the way, then added truss, 1/4" control arm brackets and shock mounts, and still had to chop up some Metalcloak shock outboarding brackets and weld them on to the new 1/4" artecs cuz I needed more clearance.
#6
If you are set with 4.10 gears, and you don't plan to go all crazy off roading KOH style, swapping to rubi axles makes a lot of sense.
I will say, if you really plan on building em up, will need to regear at some point, and wheel pretty hard, you put a lot of money in to em and you end up with something that is still inferior to a PR44. Even gusset and truss don't help equal things out in regards to strength in the tubes. The rubi e-locker is weaker than what you'd get in an aftermarket, you stuck with the factory caster setting, and once you weld on gussets you hamper your ability and/or limit your options to outboard shock mounts should you ever want to.
I'm not trying to talk you out of it at all, just food for thought in case it's pertinent to your build and use. I swapped to rubi axles and built em up along the way, so I'm just familiar with the path. My route was buying one of those $1800 fronts, and I sourced a rear here off the forum. two axles were $2900. Gussets went on immediately along with ball joints. Regeared along the way, then added truss, 1/4" control arm brackets and shock mounts, and still had to chop up some Metalcloak shock outboarding brackets and weld them on to the new 1/4" artecs cuz I needed more clearance.
I will say, if you really plan on building em up, will need to regear at some point, and wheel pretty hard, you put a lot of money in to em and you end up with something that is still inferior to a PR44. Even gusset and truss don't help equal things out in regards to strength in the tubes. The rubi e-locker is weaker than what you'd get in an aftermarket, you stuck with the factory caster setting, and once you weld on gussets you hamper your ability and/or limit your options to outboard shock mounts should you ever want to.
I'm not trying to talk you out of it at all, just food for thought in case it's pertinent to your build and use. I swapped to rubi axles and built em up along the way, so I'm just familiar with the path. My route was buying one of those $1800 fronts, and I sourced a rear here off the forum. two axles were $2900. Gussets went on immediately along with ball joints. Regeared along the way, then added truss, 1/4" control arm brackets and shock mounts, and still had to chop up some Metalcloak shock outboarding brackets and weld them on to the new 1/4" artecs cuz I needed more clearance.