Hey everyone,

I normally don't post here, but I'm constantly glued to these forums. Wanted to get some opinions on what the ACTUAL trade-in value would be, thinking about getting a new Jeep! I have a 2008 Unlimited X, auto, 2wd (I know, I know, blashpemy! I don't do that much offroading though, and the Jeep was a STEAL when I got it). Anyways, it's hard top, power everything, Infinity system, stock suspension and powertrain. I've Line-Xed the bumpers, fenders, and underside of the hardtop. Jeep has 45k miles on it, and is in good condition (not great). There's a scratch on the hood, one on the door, and then the rear doors have some dents and dings inside the car (from carrying stuff with the seats down).

Kelley Blue Book says low is $17k and high would be $21k for trade in. Black book and Edmunds are both saying its between $12 and $16k though.

Anyone have any insights they can shed on the subject? I remember a month ago, someone posted about how they traded their JK in that was NOT in good condition and still got $20k. I'm almost ready to start going into dealerships, and I want to be ready for whatever they throw at me.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!

 

You are talking about a single number in a sea of manipulation. The trade-in price is meaningless. Make the deal for the vehicle you want to buy at the price you want. Don't mention trade-in until you are ready to make the transaction. Even better, don't trade-in at all. Sell it.

 

As previously stated, trade-in value is more or less just a number. You can negotiate that with your dealer to get the deal you want. I will say, though, that the current body Wrangler is #1 in trade-in value at the moment, followed by the Toyota Tacoma and Toyota FJ @ #2 & #3. Wranglers generally pull a pretty decent premium, so you shouldn't have any issues getting the deal you want. Just set a number that you think is fair and find a dealer that will match that number and go from there. May not find it right off, though....it may take a little work.

 

I bought my 2011 jku sport for 27900. I wanted to trade it after one year for the all and powerful 2012 jkur.
I had 26,000 miles on my year old jeep and it was fairly beat up underneath. When it came time to talk money, I didn't say a word about lowering the sticker price.

Here's why.
Mention your trade first.
They offered me 20,000 right away. I said no way. I told them we went back and forth for a bit (he would go ask his manager if they could go higher and he would come back to me with a couple hundred bucks added on).
You have to get the manager to come talk to you directly.
I told them I would not settle for less than 25,500
They usually say there's no way they can reach an agreement
Remind them that you have a perfectly good jeep in the parking lot that you ha e no problem driving away in. Hold your ground.
It took me 2 hours roughly, but they finally got to my agreed price (make sure they write the number down so you have proof of what they told you)
Here comes the good part...
Tell them you don't want to trade anymore.
tell them you like the idea of having both jeeps (one for the old lady maybe?)
At this point they will be tired of talking and will be quick to lower the sticker price to where you want it because they know you're stubborn, and will do what they can to get you out the door with the deal you want.
When you settle for the lowest price they'll give you (make sure the price is written down) tell them you're ready to sign papers.
When you get to the office and the ask how you'll be paying for it, tell them you changed your mind again and want to trade the old jeep. The look on their face is priceless
At this point you will truly have the best deal you could've gotten.

I used this technique when I bought my '11 and '12. Worked both times.
Bought my '11 for 27900
traded it a year later for 25500 with 26000 miles on it.
My new Rubicon was listed at 36,000. We settled for 33,000 after dealing (right about at invoice)

I swear this works great. Confidence is key. Establish that you are the boss, but at the same time don't be a di** about it.

My old man has been a car dealer for years so I have learned the tricks of the trade
You should have no problem getting 21k or 22k and then getting a good deal on The new one

Happy dealing! Hope this helps

 

List or "sticker" price is another meaningless number used to facilitate manipulation.

 

That's known in the industry as "parachuting the trade". You can look up the pros and cons as it's pretty well known.

 

I'd be more inclined to think you'll get closer to "Black Book" which you said lists your vehicle starting at $12k. The mileage is slightly below average (most vehicles see 12-15k miles/year). Yours is 5 years old with only 45k. The things that hurt you are lack of 4wd, average condition w/ a few scapes, and the personalization of the bumpers/interior with Line-X.

The dealer is likely going to offer you "wholesale" value, which will be low. They will either sell it at auction for a quick sale, OR, they might buy low and keep it on the lot, knowing it will probably sit for a while, until they find the right buyer. Buyers for 2wd, 5-year old Jeeps in the used market are rare.

If a quick sale is your goal, it may be a good idea to trade it in. Also be sure to consider the tax credit that would benefit you in the transaction.

If getting top dollar for the Jeep is your goal, it may be well worth it to clean it up and list it for sale, private-party, and see if you get any hits.

 

Thanks for the quick responses. Yea, I'm well aware that EVERYTHING is negotiable at the dealerships. Guess I was just more curious what was more accurate in terms of the car's value, KBB or Edmunds/Black Book. The difference in their estimates is $5k, which is a big portion of what the car is worth.

I'm definitely not in a rush to get a new car, so I can afford to take my time. I want a new car, I dont need one. I can always try to parachute the trade, and if it doesnt work I'll try another tactic.

Thanks for all the advice guys, keep chiming in if anyone else has any more good tips.

 

Thanks for this. Well the Line-X thing I'm not too worried about. Most salesman at ANY dealerships have any idea of what they're talking about. The Line-X is virtually the same color as factory, so I doubt they'll even notice it.

I live in CA so unfortunately the tax credit doesnt apply to me

 

I definitely wouldn't advocate "parachuting the trade" or whatever that nonsense is. Actually, it's not nonsense. It's lying. Some car sales people lie, but that doesn't mean it's right to use the same tactics. You are there to represent your best interests and to fact-check everything a dealer tells you. Hardly anyone buying a car takes notes, except for the sales person. Take your own notes. Do your own calculations. None of this is strategy, it's about you being prepared and educated to complete a fairly large financial transaction on your own behalf. In a fast-paced deal, was that scribbled number $26,681, or was it $26,861? Maybe it was a clerical error, or maybe the sales person just bought themselves a $180 bar tab on your dime. Doesn't matter. If you weren't paying attention, it's money in the dealer's favor.

The best "strategy" I can tell you for buying a car is to put your best foot forward. Be genuine and honest, but do not give away unnecessary information. State your intentions clearly. Act professionally. Bring someone uninterested in the deal to observe, take notes, or fact check for you. Observe the deal as the whole transaction--every part counts. Interest rate, terms, payment, down payment, trade value, purchase price, tax, etc. Know exactly the car you want to buy in advance, bring your own financing or know exactly what you qualify for, know all rebates and incentives available, do your research to see if the dealer is trying to dump the car online by stacking dealer cash on the hood. Print out the ad and bring it in. If the sales person is being unprofessional, or is taking excessively long with "let me talk to my manager" --just invite the manager to come talk to you where you are sitting.

Nobody robs a car dealer through a "good deal". Most incredible deals, aren't. Buying new vehicles and trading old ones costs money. Your best bet is for an equitable transaction--You drive away in a new car you love on the best and most beneficial terms available to you, and the dealer makes some money too.

The last bit...Do not brag online about your car deal if you are artifically inflating or deflating the number at which you bought or sold your vehicle. There are more than plenty of people on here that got absolutely pussy-whipped and snowed during their car deal around here, but who writes about that?!

Good luck...you may be an expert car buyer, but for everyone else, it's free advice. With empasis on free