Top items for new Jeep owners...
04-30-2007, 09:41 AM
#54
JK Freak
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Tip section added
Starting to see some driving tips so just added one from Jeep School about driving in sand.
Posted back on the first page.
Hopefully some of the hardcore mudders will join in and let us know how to avoid those sticky (stuck) situations and when it is best to use (or avoid) the lockers.
Thanks
Posted back on the first page.
Hopefully some of the hardcore mudders will join in and let us know how to avoid those sticky (stuck) situations and when it is best to use (or avoid) the lockers.
Thanks
05-03-2007, 06:22 AM
#55
JK Freak
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Jeeping 101
Several folks have added cleaning and care tips for the plastic windows which have been added to the first page.
Also still looking for mudding, rock crawling tips (other than not tip over).
What angles become dangerous and is an inclinometer a good idea? How much is too much?
Also still looking for mudding, rock crawling tips (other than not tip over).
What angles become dangerous and is an inclinometer a good idea? How much is too much?
05-03-2007, 09:02 AM
#56
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Wow. There is a lot to cover here. I will try to give general, brief answers...
Mud? What's mud?
HILLS/ANGLES
A totally stock Jeep has up to about a 30 degree side hill capability and 50 degree uphill/downhill capability. Your stock Wrangler is almost perfectly balanced--50% of the weight on the front axle, 50% on the back (Unlimiteds are 1-2% heavier in the back). For most people, the "pucker factor" kicks in about 10 degrees before you are in danger of a rollover--listen to this instinct!
Now for the disclaimer...there are virtually innumerable factors which decrease this capability: load distribution, modifications and their placement relative to the center of gravity, uneven terrain, soft/slippery terrain, wind, alignment of the planets, etc. etc. etc...
General "tips" (pun intended) for recovering from tippy situations:
1. DON'T slam on the brakes--a sudden shift in weight distribution can throw you over.
2. Turn your front wheels in the direction of the tip i.e. downhill. You can even apply a little throttle to bring your back end around.
ROCKCRAWLING
As slow as you can, as fast as you must. Low and slow is the name of the game with rocks and hard surfaces.
Why as slow as possible?
1. Bouncing tires have no traction.
2. Suspension that is compressing is more likely to bang something important on a rock and/or get you hung up.
There is always some cowboy who says "I can do that trail in 2wd!", to which I reply "Why?" I must have missed the macho gene that makes it cool to unnecessarily overwork your vehicle.
Why use 4L on rocks?
1. Depending on your transfer case, you are multiplying your torque by 3-4 times at the same RPM--more power with the same throttle is good.
2. Have you ever seen what happens to a fast-spinning drive shaft when it makes the slightest contact with a rock? Low range means your drive shaft is spinning 1/3-1/4 the speed.
3. Overheating: the only time I have seen (newer) Jeeps get hot is when drivers are trying to run a rough trail in 4H in warm weather.
One of the first things I teach new clients is throttle control: press 50% of the pressure on the side of your right foot against the trans hump, and 50% on the throttle. This will help you maintain steady throttle in rough terrain. Left-foot braking is also useful, especially with an automatic.
The number one mistake drivers make with manual transmissions is over-clutching. With a manual, once you are in 4Low, you drive it almost like an automatic--leave that clutch out! (Try this--on a level area, with your Jeep in 4Low, let it idle without pressing the gas...then apply the brake and see if you can get it to stall!)
Keep your tires on the high spots. For a stock Wrangler, rocks sticking up 9" or more relative to their surroundings warrant attention: either go around them, or put your tires on them to lift you up and over. You can climb over rocks and ledges that are approximately half the height of your tires, without risk of getting hung up.
Obstacles taller than that take a little more creativity, for example, you may approach a ledge at a 30 degree angle in order to climb over it one tire at a time, thereby increasing your clearance. Of course, you need to make sure that approaching a tall rock or ledge at an angle is not going to put you at a sidehill angle of more than 25 degrees +/-.
I let my tire pressure down to 10-15 pounds for rockcrawling. This is with BFG's with 3-ply sidewalls, so know the limitations of your tires. (In sand, I have run with as little as 5 pounds). This puts more rubber in contact with the ground for more traction.
Whew! I am getting typing cramps, and I did promise to try to keep this brief.
Happy trails!
Mud? What's mud?
HILLS/ANGLES
A totally stock Jeep has up to about a 30 degree side hill capability and 50 degree uphill/downhill capability. Your stock Wrangler is almost perfectly balanced--50% of the weight on the front axle, 50% on the back (Unlimiteds are 1-2% heavier in the back). For most people, the "pucker factor" kicks in about 10 degrees before you are in danger of a rollover--listen to this instinct!
Now for the disclaimer...there are virtually innumerable factors which decrease this capability: load distribution, modifications and their placement relative to the center of gravity, uneven terrain, soft/slippery terrain, wind, alignment of the planets, etc. etc. etc...
General "tips" (pun intended) for recovering from tippy situations:
1. DON'T slam on the brakes--a sudden shift in weight distribution can throw you over.
2. Turn your front wheels in the direction of the tip i.e. downhill. You can even apply a little throttle to bring your back end around.
ROCKCRAWLING
As slow as you can, as fast as you must. Low and slow is the name of the game with rocks and hard surfaces.
Why as slow as possible?
1. Bouncing tires have no traction.
2. Suspension that is compressing is more likely to bang something important on a rock and/or get you hung up.
There is always some cowboy who says "I can do that trail in 2wd!", to which I reply "Why?" I must have missed the macho gene that makes it cool to unnecessarily overwork your vehicle.
Why use 4L on rocks?
1. Depending on your transfer case, you are multiplying your torque by 3-4 times at the same RPM--more power with the same throttle is good.
2. Have you ever seen what happens to a fast-spinning drive shaft when it makes the slightest contact with a rock? Low range means your drive shaft is spinning 1/3-1/4 the speed.
3. Overheating: the only time I have seen (newer) Jeeps get hot is when drivers are trying to run a rough trail in 4H in warm weather.
One of the first things I teach new clients is throttle control: press 50% of the pressure on the side of your right foot against the trans hump, and 50% on the throttle. This will help you maintain steady throttle in rough terrain. Left-foot braking is also useful, especially with an automatic.
The number one mistake drivers make with manual transmissions is over-clutching. With a manual, once you are in 4Low, you drive it almost like an automatic--leave that clutch out! (Try this--on a level area, with your Jeep in 4Low, let it idle without pressing the gas...then apply the brake and see if you can get it to stall!)
Keep your tires on the high spots. For a stock Wrangler, rocks sticking up 9" or more relative to their surroundings warrant attention: either go around them, or put your tires on them to lift you up and over. You can climb over rocks and ledges that are approximately half the height of your tires, without risk of getting hung up.
Obstacles taller than that take a little more creativity, for example, you may approach a ledge at a 30 degree angle in order to climb over it one tire at a time, thereby increasing your clearance. Of course, you need to make sure that approaching a tall rock or ledge at an angle is not going to put you at a sidehill angle of more than 25 degrees +/-.
I let my tire pressure down to 10-15 pounds for rockcrawling. This is with BFG's with 3-ply sidewalls, so know the limitations of your tires. (In sand, I have run with as little as 5 pounds). This puts more rubber in contact with the ground for more traction.
Whew! I am getting typing cramps, and I did promise to try to keep this brief.
Happy trails!
05-03-2007, 05:29 PM
#59
I'm not disputing your angle information, but the literature I have from Jeep on the JK says it can handle a side slope of 40 degrees and a grade of 60%. However, I think that's a misprint, because wouldn't a grade of 60% be shy of 31 degrees?
It's been awhile since I did any serious muddin'. Tires that self-clean are a must. Momentum is also important, but despite what some believe you don't need to be going like a bat out of hell.
05-03-2007, 05:36 PM
#60
JK Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2007
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Mud
I thought one of you Southerners would jump in the mud topic by now--after all, GA, AL, MS--all you have is mud--you are the mud experts!
Oh well, I am just an Arizona girl, so I only see serious mud once a decade, but I will try to pull some tips together from memory:
1. Make your passenger wade across so you can gauge the depth and viscosity of the mud. If you actually have a passenger willing to do this, a Jeep will have no problem getting across anything a person can walk across/through it.
2. Check for tire tracks going in and/or out the other side--no kidding--I have seen mud holes with tracks going in ONLY
3. Most mud requires a little momentum to get through--maybe 5-10 mph. Establish your speed and direction before you enter the mud--corrections you try to make while in the mud will have little effectiveness. Remember that in soft surfaces (mud, snow, sand) turning your wheels creates resistance to your forward movement.
4. In thicker mud with visible ruts, you can turn your wheels rapidly back and forth to both spin mud off and grab the edges of the ruts for a little more traction.
5. In soupier mud, you can really get your tires spinning to try to "paddle" your way out--do this with extreme caution, as there may be chunks of logs or rocks in the mud which could kick up and hurt something or someone. This technique usually only works well with Mud Terrain or Super Swamper-like tread patterns. All Terrains will gum up and look like a chocolate-glazed donut.
Don't forget to thoroughly clean out your undercarriage (and your shorts, if necessary).
Note: Tread Lightly encourages everyone to avoid recreating on wet/soft trails, as it inflicts trail damage at a much higher rate. This is easy to follow in Arizona, but I imagine that in many parts of the country, this is not an option most of the year. Input?
Happy trails!
Oh well, I am just an Arizona girl, so I only see serious mud once a decade, but I will try to pull some tips together from memory:
1. Make your passenger wade across so you can gauge the depth and viscosity of the mud.
If you actually have a passenger willing to do this, a Jeep will have no problem getting across anything a person can walk across/through it. 2. Check for tire tracks going in and/or out the other side--no kidding--I have seen mud holes with tracks going in ONLY
3. Most mud requires a little momentum to get through--maybe 5-10 mph. Establish your speed and direction before you enter the mud--corrections you try to make while in the mud will have little effectiveness. Remember that in soft surfaces (mud, snow, sand) turning your wheels creates resistance to your forward movement.
4. In thicker mud with visible ruts, you can turn your wheels rapidly back and forth to both spin mud off and grab the edges of the ruts for a little more traction.
5. In soupier mud, you can really get your tires spinning to try to "paddle" your way out--do this with extreme caution, as there may be chunks of logs or rocks in the mud which could kick up and hurt something or someone. This technique usually only works well with Mud Terrain or Super Swamper-like tread patterns. All Terrains will gum up and look like a chocolate-glazed donut.
Don't forget to thoroughly clean out your undercarriage (and your shorts, if necessary).
Note: Tread Lightly encourages everyone to avoid recreating on wet/soft trails, as it inflicts trail damage at a much higher rate. This is easy to follow in Arizona, but I imagine that in many parts of the country, this is not an option most of the year. Input?
Happy trails!