Talk me out of a 2011 Rubicon...
#13
JK Enthusiast
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Location: Raleigh, NC
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I had in my mind that I was going to buy a 2012, until the 0%/60 month deal came out. I thought I'd at least see how low I could get a dealer by leveraging my knowledge of the 2012 and knowing that its likely to be on lots next month.
I got the dealer down to $2000 under invoice or roughly 6% under invoice on a 2011 Rubicon.
I got the dealer down to $2000 under invoice or roughly 6% under invoice on a 2011 Rubicon.
Without much work I found myself within $800 of the OTD price I had preset in my head. The dealer is being extremely aggressive with the sale price and my trade.
All in all, I am finding it very difficult to justify waiting for the new motor.
The exact same rig in a 2012 will likely cost me $5k to $7k more OTD when all said and done.
#14
I sat in a 2011 JK with the new interior at the dealership, and it made my 2010 JK interior look and feel like garbage. Chrysler used all the money they saved on cheap low grade steering components and put it into a fabulous new interior. I'm surprised at the quality and comfort of the new interiors, BUT I'd still wait for the new powerplant of the 2012s. That way you get the better interior AND better powerplant.
I test drove the 07, 08, 09, 10, and finally purchased the 2011 because the interior upgrade.
#15
JK Enthusiast
Originally Posted by hypractv
Quick update... I headed over to the dealer I usually work with. After driving the '11 Rubicon and allowing them to look at my '10 Sport we talked numbers.
Without much work I found myself within $800 of the OTD price I had preset in my head. The dealer is being extremely aggressive with the sale price and my trade.
All in all, I am finding it very difficult to justify waiting for the new motor.
The exact same rig in a 2012 will likely cost me $5k to $7k more OTD when all said and done.
#16
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: West Chester, PA
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Quick update... I headed over to the dealer I usually work with. After driving the '11 Rubicon and allowing them to look at my '10 Sport we talked numbers.
Without much work I found myself within $800 of the OTD price I had preset in my head. The dealer is being extremely aggressive with the sale price and my trade.
All in all, I am finding it very difficult to justify waiting for the new motor.
The exact same rig in a 2012 will likely cost me $5k to $7k more OTD when all said and done.
Without much work I found myself within $800 of the OTD price I had preset in my head. The dealer is being extremely aggressive with the sale price and my trade.
All in all, I am finding it very difficult to justify waiting for the new motor.
The exact same rig in a 2012 will likely cost me $5k to $7k more OTD when all said and done.
#17
There is no way that a new 2012 will cost $5-7K more for a comparably equipped vehicle. You can get a new vehicle for below invoice, there are not deals for 20% under invoice. Unless you are getting jacked on your trade or you are comparing sticker price on the 2012 with your best deal on the 2011. If you want the 2011, though, get it. Maybe they have a color you like on the lot.
#18
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2011
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If you take into consideration the interest savings on a financed Wrangler (0% for 5 years for the 2011), you could be saving over $5000. I got my 2011 Rubicon for $2000 under invoice. The interest savings is around $3500 on 0% v. 3.5%. So my grand total savings was $5500.
#19
JK Enthusiast
There is no way that a new 2012 will cost $5-7K more for a comparably equipped vehicle. You can get a new vehicle for below invoice, there are not deals for 20% under invoice. Unless you are getting jacked on your trade or you are comparing sticker price on the 2012 with your best deal on the 2011. If you want the 2011, though, get it. Maybe they have a color you like on the lot.
#20
If you are going to talk about the time value of the money, then you have to take into account the relative value of the vehicle in five years. If the 2012 is worth more at the end of the finance period, you would have to factor that in. Manufacturers knows this. They are not offering 0% interest out of the goodness of their hearts. They are trying to overcome the depreciation hit inherent in buying a left-over. They sell you on a lower payment now without pointing out to you that this will result in a larger payment on your next vehicle due to your trade being worth less. There is nothing wrong with buying a 2011, but you are fooling yourself if you think there is thousands in savings by doing it.
My plan is to hang on to Rubicon for the life of the vehicle. So my only concern is real return in my pocket. If plan to sell the vehicle within 10 years, I think you've got a great point - the 2012 would be the better buy.