08REDROCKX

Depends on which Loctite you are using, different colors cure differently.....read the label. I have used Blue and Green. Blue you can probably re-torgue but if there is any noticable movement then Loctite will need to be reapplied. Green is like an epoxy, it is meant to be left alone and will crack if you try and retorque. If you want to be proactive on tire rotations or a schedule?...remove nuts, clean threads, reapply Loctite and retorque.

GoinCamando

You are correct.
To add, RED is also not to be serviced. That's what I use.

Bkeeper

Back to the OPs original question. I run 285s KELLY TSR A/Ts on factory 17" rims. Before adding my lift they would rub ever so slightly on the sway bar at full wheel lock. After my lift they no longer rubbed on the sway bar but instead the lower control arm. The rubbing to either is minor and does not harm the vehicle.

As for spacer debate that's up to you, IMO wheels that stick out more than a half inch from the fenders look sloppy on a DD. On a 4+ inch lifted rock buggy running 37 they can look good, but a daily driver? But hay I am from the old school.

Rob 12B1P

On wheel spacers I check torque, I dont re-torque. To check I set my torque wrench 10 pounds under the torque spec. If the nut turns then something has come loose or has stretched and I address the issue. If it doesnt turn I dont mess with it. Easy peasy. This doesnt break the loctite.

BTW Im running 37x12.5's on the stockers and it works fine. If mine was a daily driver I would have looked at either 35's or maybe 285/75/17's.

Ryan0260

Correct. As long as you don't go beyond the original torque spec, you won't break the loctite.

Jonathan_JK

That is also a option on checking them. I still like the torque seal method. If its good Enough for aircraft engines its good enough for me.

Rob 12B1P

Ive been thinking about getting a paint pen and crawling undeer and doing all the nuts that I dont retorque (I retorque the track/LCAs/UCAs after every trip.) regularly. Its a good idea.

soberbyker

Hey guys and gals, I have a stock 2013 Unlimited Sahara, stock rims are 18", the tires, 32.1".

I'd like to keep the 18" wheels and 32.1" in diameter is good enough for my use, I'd like to go a tad wider though with NO spacers or lift.

The whole tire ratio numbers confuse me. The stock tires are Bridgestone Dueler A/T RH-S 255/70-18.

I'm thinking about going with the Goodyear Wrangler SilentArmor, though that's not set in stone, what tire numbers would give me what I'm looking for?

Rob 12B1P

The 1st number is the width in millimeters. The second is the aspect ratio (ie 70 =.7, 65=.65) and the 3rd is the wheel size. To calculate the tire size in inches a formulas are:

Width in inches=(Width in mm/25.4) example 255/75/17 would be 255/25.4=10.04

Height in inches=(width in inches x aspect ratio x 2)+wheel size. example for 255/75/17 would be (10.04x.75x2)+17=32.06

That or you can google a tire conversion calculator and you can just plug in the numbers.

soberbyker

Other than counting money, math is not my strong suit, I've seen that formula before and it reads like Greek to me. Thanks though.

What I'm hoping is someone with stock 18" wheels can tell me what the widest width is the can be used without the need for any spacers, lift or other mods and not rub on anything.