Sport vs Rubicon
#21
JK Junkie
It all depends on what you want to do with your rig? If 33's are the biggest you are going to go, get the Sport (That's what I did). I am going 35's now, and I wish I would have purchased the Rubi instead. The big differences:
Rubi has D44 up Front vs. D30 on the Sport
Ruby Comes with 32's Standard vs. Worse on the Sport (depends on trim package)
Rubi comes with Elockers
Rubi comes with Electronic Sway Bar Disconnect
Rubi comes with 4.10 Gears vs. 3.73(?) on the Sport
If 4.10's are low enough for you, it is well work $7k for the Rubi. (Gears + Lockers are $3k, D44 up front is another $3k)
Rubi has D44 up Front vs. D30 on the Sport
Ruby Comes with 32's Standard vs. Worse on the Sport (depends on trim package)
Rubi comes with Elockers
Rubi comes with Electronic Sway Bar Disconnect
Rubi comes with 4.10 Gears vs. 3.73(?) on the Sport
If 4.10's are low enough for you, it is well work $7k for the Rubi. (Gears + Lockers are $3k, D44 up front is another $3k)
#22
JK Enthusiast
I had the exact same idea when I bought my 2010 sport. I too wish I had just went ahead and bought a Rubi. By the time you make it equivalent, you've spent twice as much. I don't think I can trade in my jeep since it's my first, but my wifes car is paid off so I'm thinking I might be the proud owner of a 2012 Rubi. I think i'm gonna pass on the 2011s.
#23
JK Junkie
Join Date: Feb 2010
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And for the wheeling I do, I don't think it would be an advantage for me to be in 3rd gear rather than 2nd (that's where I am the most, trail riding) when I'm in 4 low. That's really the difference:
NSG370 ratios
1 2 3 4 5 6 R
4.46 2.61 1.72 1.25 1.00 0.84 4.06
(NV241 low range)*(2nd gear ratio)/(NV241OR low range)=(equivalent gear for use with OR TC)
2.72*2.61/4=1.77
#24
JK Junkie
At the end of the day they both share the same frame and body. What you do with it after it rolls off the assembly line is your business.
When it comes down to it. Money talks and bullshit from Rubicon Fanboys stays here in the forum and not on the trails.
When it comes down to it. Money talks and bullshit from Rubicon Fanboys stays here in the forum and not on the trails.
Last edited by Jonathan_JK; 03-14-2013 at 06:37 AM. Reason: I can't spell to save my life... Lol
#25
You must be bored lol This thread is 2 years old now. Although, I believe buying a base sport for $20gs and spend $10gs on it will get you a Rubicon eater vs spending $30-40gs on a Rubicon, but not everybody wants to build a vehicle.
#26
JK Super Freak
Join Date: Apr 2009
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Rock Trac Rubi cases are not stronger just a different ratio. Every v8 JK Chevy LS build uses the 2.72 ratio TC since the tranny adapter does not work with the 4:1 tcase. They are making 400+ horsepower.
#27
As mentioned above it depends on what you want to do... For the price it's hard to beat the gearing and lockers the rubi gets you, but if ground clearance is more important, you can use the money save from buying a rubi to get a lift and 35s.
Only you can make that call.
Only you can make that call.
#28
JK Junkie
I agree with you. My wife wants to buy a JK. She does not want to mod it out so I'm going to get her the JKUR. If you just want to buy something and drive it and not do major mods get a Rubicon. If you want to go big throw in a D 60 re-gear run 37-40's etc.... Get a Sport. Why in Gods name would you pay for all the stuff that makes a Rubicon a Rubicon. Just to take it off and upgrade it? I know that stickers are cool but a sticker that is worth 10K?????
#29
JK Enthusiast
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#30
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2012
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Price of building a truly more capable jeep than a rubicon = 3000- 4000$ rear dana 60 rock jock , 6000-7000$ front dana 60 rock jock, 2300$ for atlas 2 speed transfer case 3200$ atlas 4 speed transfer case. This gives stronger parts all around good ground clearence to diffs, compatability with stock electronics. Thats pretty hard to swing over the price of a stock Rubicon.