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Rear Brake Rotors -Need Advice-

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Old 08-18-2011, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark Doiron
Just pull the rotors off carefully so you don't dislodge anything. Not terribly difficult. You'll be able to see everything to adjust the shoes out, then replace the rotor. Easy-peasy, and you should pull the rotors anyway to inspect the e-brake pads and internal drum surface.
Well, finally had the time to remove the rear rotors and do the e-brake adjustment / inspection...Mark, hope you are there need some more of your advice.

Both rotor, and drum surfaces (both sides) look just fine, no issues. The shoes as well look fine and have worn just a bit more on the divers side, passanger look like they need more of an adjustment then the drivers....will try and keep them the same. Looks the the factory markes their original setting with yellow paint...nice saved me from doing so.

Re-installed the rotors, and took a base line on the e-brake handel...three clicks and both sides hold. Release the handle both sides move with out drag. It's someone difficult to move as I have the LSD from the factory, shoes are not binding up drum when handle released, but I get the sense I need just a click or too on each side...any further tips tricks to ensure not too much adjust, too much drag is not so good when brake is off Also, do you remember clockwise or ant-clock wise is tighten or loosen...the star wheel is vertically positioned....is it safe to adjust a few clicks at a time and then watch the wheel studs and the rotor make sure there is still movement? Thanks again.
Old 08-18-2011, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by shockwaveaz
I usually change the rotors on my vehicles every other brake job. But, on the JK with the hassle/cost of getting them turned and the low price of rotors ($55 each) you should just replace them.

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X2....I've never believed in turning rotors and since I'm doing my own work I can justify putting on a new rotor instead of thinning out an already thin rotor.
Old 08-18-2011, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by webejeepin
... Re-installed the rotors, and took a base line on the e-brake handel...three clicks and both sides hold. Release the handle both sides move with out drag. It's someone difficult to move as I have the LSD from the factory, shoes are not binding up drum when handle released, but I get the sense I need just a click or too on each side...
This sounds exactly like how mine are adjusted. I don't recall which way to turn the star wheel, but with the drum off you can just take a gander at it and move it up and down to your heart's content and see which way the screw piston moves. However, if you have no drag (you should be able to hear it), and if the brake holds tight at three clicks (I have to really force mine to get to four or five clicks), I figure you're good to go. Even if you have a very slight bit of noise when rotating the wheel, you should still be okay. In that case, if there's contact it will round out the pads in short order. But, I'm not a mechanic, so please don't take my opinion as gospel. It's just what has worked for me over the years.
Old 08-19-2011, 01:25 PM
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Thanks Mark for the sanity check, E-brake adjusted and new pads in the rear good as new....see how long this adjustment lasts.

For anyone else that needs to do this the starwheel adjustment on the drivers side wheel you adjust CLOCKWISE to expand the shoes to tighten things up. The passanger side is COUNTER CLOCKWISE to tighten things up. Also note that the start wheel adjustor is vertical, and push's the shoes up and down.....older designs had the wheel adjustor horizontal, and this push's the shoes left and right. On my 08JKU all i needed was the brake spoon, no second screwdriver required, as there is no clip to hold it back....the star wheel is right up tight to a spring.




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