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Old 09-05-2011, 06:37 PM
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I use Turtle Wax ICE. You can get it on any of the Black Plastic and it comes right off. No white residue at all. Makes life so easy to wax the Jeep again.
Old 09-06-2011, 01:25 PM
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x2 turtle wax ice. The jeep can be hot, in the sun and it is still easy. Water beads up nicely.

Ive heard people using the tire shine crap as a coating for under the jeep. mud just slides off.
Old 09-06-2011, 01:30 PM
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I am allergic to peanut butter.. a quarter of one will put me in a pine box..



I'll stick to the 303 for stained fenders...
Old 09-06-2011, 01:35 PM
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Carsystems refinish/restorer works way better than peanut butter and last months longer.
Old 09-06-2011, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by MikekiM
I am allergic to peanut butter.. a quarter of one will put me in a pine box..



I'll stick to the 303 for stained fenders...
Yeh, keep away from it then. I have heard good things about 303. I thought it was a protectant. Is it also a cleaner? Leary of Armor-All. Seems like the second you use it you have to keep it on all the time or the fade starts.
Old 09-06-2011, 03:58 PM
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Vinlyex works wonders!
Old 09-06-2011, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by JeepPilot10
Yeh, keep away from it then. I have heard good things about 303. I thought it was a protectant. Is it also a cleaner? Leary of Armor-All. Seems like the second you use it you have to keep it on all the time or the fade starts.
I have a few options for the black plastic stuff..

303 Protectant is a good item that brings back the black and doesn't leave the plastic greasy or sticky. It doesn't last too long though and rain washes it away. I just washed the JK after a week of mud stuck on it and the plastic was stained an nasty looking. The 303 brought it back no problem.

Harley PolyGuard is one of the best I have used, but it is a bit shiny and needs to be wiped down before it dries, to matte it out. It then dries nicely with no sticky or greasy residue. The down-side it that it's hard to get these days.

My favorite is One Grande Exterior Rubber and Vinyl Protectant (ERV).. It will bring back the worst fade and stains. It isn't waterproof but it can last a few light showers. Dries matte and is completely dry to the touch.

Now, Armor All?? That is the devils work.. nastiest stuff I have ever used and I've used a ton. The original formula is greasy and attracts dust and debris like flies to fly paper and looks like an oil slick. Take a look at the paving under your JK after a rain. The AA just washes off. I think there is a new, high gloss version (like it needs to be glossier). I avoid this stuff like the proverbial plague.

The downside to all of these is that they need to be rubbed in to be effective and with all the deep crevices and hard-to-get-at spots like where the fenders meet the body, around and under the license plate, on the trim that is under the grill.. it's a real pain to do a decent job. I use an assortment of sponge applicators that work well enough, but I have been considering one of those sealants that are supposed to be a once-and-done product. Probably BS but it's worth a try.

I don't put any treatment on the tires.

I use Griot's under-carriage spray for the under side of the fenders and wheel wells.

Adam's Silicone spray is good under there too, but it's an aerosol and is pretty wasteful.
Old 09-06-2011, 04:41 PM
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The peanut butter works to remove wax, stains, and such from any black plastic. I have never had it discolor my flare, but if you do have that problem, followup the peanut butter with Vinylex. It is the best product I have found for the flares and the interior dash and such. It has a good UV protectant, is not greasy, and best of all, it dries a matte finish not glossy so it doesn't cause the dash to glare back at you. I Vinylex my flares and dash every 4th wash or every other month, whichever comes first. I had my Sahara for 3 years and the flares looked like new when I traded it in.

Do stay away from Armorall. The real reason is that the chemical in Armorall that cleans the plastic will remove the plastic's natural binder chemical (plasticizer) and break the chemical bonds in the plastics polychains. This will cause cracking and flaking after prolonged use. It also is greasy and dries to a high gloss, causing glare.

303 is very good also, but I prefer Vinylex for hard plastics. 303 seems to work better on soft stuff like your top.
Old 09-07-2011, 06:42 AM
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I agree and use 303 on the stuff you see. I do retract my Armorall usage statement from before and should have said "No touch" tire foam. .... kinda like asking to "Xerox" a "Kleenex" instead of copy a tissue
Old 09-07-2011, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by ToolManTimTaylor
I agree and use 303 on the stuff you see. I do retract my Armorall usage statement from before and should have said "No touch" tire foam. .... kinda like asking to "Xerox" a "Kleenex" instead of copy a tissue
I gave up on the no-touch spray on tire foam, but might revisit it given the massive amount of rubber-real-estate that needs to be covered.. The problem I have with it's post-spray needs.. Some of the product ends up running off and that, along with the excess that drips down, stains the pavement where the tire were sprayed. I ruined some beautiful driveway pavers with that stuff. And if you don't let it run off and dry down, it slings all over the sides of the vehicle... lose/lose in my book.

Since the post has taken a turn towards detailing, I encourage all to try Wurth Rubber Care Gel Stick to treat the seals for the Freedom top... Works wonders for keeping them moist and reducing leaks...

Last edited by MikekiM; 09-07-2011 at 08:13 AM.



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