The 9/16"-18 hex bolt I got for the lower arms fits perfectly in the rear upper control arm bushing sleeve. The bolt in this pic is 4". I haven't done a test fit with the Jeep yet, so I don't know if that's too long. I also haven't checked the front upper arms. But the rear uppers are definitely 9/16" like the lower arms.

 

Sorry for the newb question but if I replace one bolt at a time on my jk will it affect anything? (I.e. caster, pinion, alignment or anything like that with the suspension)

 

Im going to have to get on this very soon. .....

 

I am also looking to replace my lower shock bolts and nuts. Can anybody translate this into sizes/types I can order from one of these bolt stores or my local hardware store?

The first # is Chrystler's part #, the 2nd is the description.

06104718AA (NUT. Hex Flange Lock. M12X1.50)
06104242AA (BOLT. Hex Flange Head. M12X1.50X70.00)

 

This is unlocking the mystery of Death wobble !
I can't believe how many friends went on changing steering components , steering dampers and even steering boxes !
But never thought that the primary reason for DW is an engineering / design problem.

Thank you all !

 

It's been said before, but I want to thank you for the video and thread.
I have done 3 JK and 1 XJ lift on friends and family rigs and will be changing out the bolts on the JK's ASAP - just ordered mine from Bolt Depot using posted part numbers!

You guys rock!

 

Excellent post and thanks for sharing. Have front and rear track bars sitting in the garage waiting to be installed this weekend. Will be hopping down to the hardware store tomorrow to grab some 9/16 3" shoulder bolts for my front and rear.

Has anyone with stock components experienced DW? I assumed this only occurred once AFM parts have been installed? Sounds like the aftermarket manufacturers error in their tolerances more-so than Jeep Engineering to me.

 

Wow. Very informative read. Thanks for the heads up. I will be doing this soon.

 

I want to replace the lower shock bolts because my passenger side got cross threaded when I installed the lift. When I put it on I knew that once I took it off next time they'd need to be replaced. It's not a result of being worn like the track bar bolts, but figured I'd do them all at the same time anyways.

 

Well guys, i went today to install my new bolts and nuts i found that the installed bolts are correct.
I have a mopar 2" lift kit. This kit includes a new adjustable front track bar (with new bolts, as the old track bar was returned with the old bolts attached), and when i removed the frame side bolt it was not loose and it was exactly the same size of the new bolts i was to install, they even are shoulder bolts... i actually inserted both bolts in the track bar hole and bot fitted exactly the same, with very very little play between them and the track bar sleeve. The nut used is actually a lock nut (of course) and not the nylon type... looks like a stover nut to me (the one with the oval lock threads). I, didn't remove the axle side bolt as it looks new too and so it should be the correct bolt.
I guess i will change later the lower control arm bolts, because these are not affected by the lift... but i think i'll wait till i can go to a shop to do the job... i have the tools, but man, i bet the jeep on a lift will be a lot better to work. It's hard to tighten a bolt to 125 pounds while laying on the floor.

update: I just went and checked the new bolts to the old bolts removed with the old track bar and yes, there's a difference and the new bolts are tighter.... but looks like they took care of that for the lift kit.