How I made my oil-burning, pinging, clattering 3.8 purr like a kitten.
10-19-2013, 07:05 AM
#32
JK Jedi Master
Sorry, one last thing: I've been doing this since Mobil 1 first became available in the mid-70s. I never run synth in my vehicles until after 5K miles. I keep my vehicles at least ten years. I've never had an oil burner.
10-19-2013, 07:16 AM
#33
Super Moderator
800-1000 miles per quart is considered normal oil consumption by virtually all vehicle manufacturers. I know it sucks, but you won't win any lawsuits. Lemon laws vary by state, but typically last only a few months from initial purchase. The beyond 36K mile warranties only apply to the first buyer, and never applied to many of the 2007 JKs that were sold (including mine).
For instance, the 3.8L engine holds a total of 5 quarts of oil. In the owner's manual maintenance schedule, it instructs you to change the oil every 6000 miles. If you're engine is burning 1 Quart per 1000 miles and that is considered "normal", then according to Chrysler's maintenance schedule you can drive without oil for 1000 miles and that would also be normal.
So yeah....you many need an attorney who specializes in these cases and can point out these kind of items, to defend your rights under the lemon law.
Or you could just throw your hands in the air, give up, let someone take advantage of you and then complain about it on internet forums all day and hope to find someone with a similar problem where you can offer each other a shoulder to gripe and cry on.
Last edited by Rednroll; 10-19-2013 at 07:26 AM.
10-19-2013, 01:56 PM
#34
Has anyone with the lifetime warrantee gone in for their 5 year inspection? My 5yr anniv is Dec 8. I think I can go for it 60 days either side of that date. If you did it, did the dealership make you spend big bucks on "necessary maintenance" how much $$$ and what things? A friend was made to do an auto trans fluid and filter even though he had done it 20k earlier. They basically have you by the b#*##s.
10-19-2013, 02:08 PM
#35
By the way the 3.8 holds 6 quarts. Some of course in the oil filter. There was a thread on the dip stick calibration possibly being off. I always drain completely on level ground, add oil to the new filter (to prevent a dry start), oil the filter gasket, install the filter and fill the engine with the balance of the six quarts.
04-22-2015, 03:07 AM
#36
Cured my 3.8 pinging / spark knock
Hi All:
I realize this is an old thread. There are many threads here on this issue. My 2008 X 3.8 / manual transmission has ~~42,000 miles. The spark knock started about a year ago and progressed. Threw the EGR valve code. Replace the EGR with a Mopar valve. Code cleared but did not affect the worsening pinging / knock. It was pretty bad lately, I was fearing engine damage. I replaced the spark plugs with Champion originals and installed a set of Napa wires. Old plugs all looked similar, and pretty good. Gap had widened some, did not measure them, estimate .010". Helped, but not solved. Ran Techron, not much change. Did a combustion chamber clean with Berryman 2610 B-12 Chemtool Total Combustion Cleaning Kit - 16 oz. When the can was empty, filled the can with hot tap water and used the same little tube with the 'aireator bleed' and ran the water through the engine. I used the vacuum port at the front of the intake thinking I would get better distribution across all cylinders than if I used the power brake port at the rear. Ran it up the interstate 22 miles to work at 70 mph. One week later the knock is still completely gone. There are several things that can cause this. This is what worked for me. Hope it helps someone else. (and hope it does not return soon!)
I realize this is an old thread. There are many threads here on this issue. My 2008 X 3.8 / manual transmission has ~~42,000 miles. The spark knock started about a year ago and progressed. Threw the EGR valve code. Replace the EGR with a Mopar valve. Code cleared but did not affect the worsening pinging / knock. It was pretty bad lately, I was fearing engine damage. I replaced the spark plugs with Champion originals and installed a set of Napa wires. Old plugs all looked similar, and pretty good. Gap had widened some, did not measure them, estimate .010". Helped, but not solved. Ran Techron, not much change. Did a combustion chamber clean with Berryman 2610 B-12 Chemtool Total Combustion Cleaning Kit - 16 oz. When the can was empty, filled the can with hot tap water and used the same little tube with the 'aireator bleed' and ran the water through the engine. I used the vacuum port at the front of the intake thinking I would get better distribution across all cylinders than if I used the power brake port at the rear. Ran it up the interstate 22 miles to work at 70 mph. One week later the knock is still completely gone. There are several things that can cause this. This is what worked for me. Hope it helps someone else. (and hope it does not return soon!)