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Gas gauge stopped working...why??

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Old 06-06-2011, 05:17 PM
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Default Gas gauge stopped working...why??

After a long road trip yesterday and 2 fill ups I went to fill up and now my gas gauge is stuck at full when I know I've used at least a half tank - or more. Also it's showing my MPG is around 16-17, when it's always around 13-14. Any suggestions before I bring it in??
Old 06-06-2011, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by ludski
unplug battery and let it sit for 15-30 mins.
let the brain reset.
see if that does anything. not sure if it will. but worth a try.
I'll give it a shot. Any other advice?
Old 06-06-2011, 06:44 PM
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ACTUATOR TEST
The instrument cluster actuator test will put the instrument cluster into its self-diagnostic mode. In this mode the instrument cluster can perform a self-diagnostic test that will confirm that the instrument cluster circuitry, the gauges and the indicators are capable of operating as designed. During the actuator test the instrument cluster circuitry will position each of the gauge needles at various calibration points, illuminate each of the segments in the Vacuum-Fluorescent Display (VFD) units, and turn all of the indicators ON and OFF again.

Successful completion of the actuator test will confirm that the instrument cluster is operational. However, there may still be a problem with the CAN or LIN data bus, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM), the Controller Antilock Brake (CAB), the All-Wheel Drive Control Module (AWDCM), the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC), the compass module, the Sentry Key REmote Entry Module (SKREEM) (also known as the Wireless Control Module/WCM), or the inputs to one of these electronic control modules. Use a diagnostic scan tool to diagnose these components. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information.


1. Begin the test with the ignition switch in the OFF position.
2. Depress the odometer/trip odometer switch button.
3. While still holding the odometer/trip odometer switch button depressed, turn the ignition switch to the ON position, but do not start the engine.
4. Release the odometer/trip odometer switch button.
5. The instrument cluster will simultaneously begin to illuminate all of the operational segments in the VFD units, and perform a bulb check of each operational LED indicator. The VFD segments and LED indicators remain illuminated as each gauge needle is swept to several calibration points and back. If a VFD segment or an LED indicator fails to illuminate, or if a gauge needle fails to sweep through the calibration points and back during this test, the instrument cluster must be replaced.
6. The actuator test is now completed. The instrument cluster will automatically exit the self-diagnostic mode and return to normal operation at the completion of the test. The actuator test will be aborted if the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, or if an electronic vehicle speed message indicating that the vehicle is moving is received over the CAN data bus during the test.
7. Go back to STEP 1 to repeat the test, if necessary.
Old 06-07-2011, 09:36 AM
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So I did the actuator test 3x and it seems it should be working fine. It stays stuck at the top and previously at the middle - the highest levels I had filled it to. It moves a bit lower but I should be down near half a tank again. Also, my MPG reading is still a bit high. Guess I need to bring her in...
Old 06-07-2011, 10:47 AM
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maybe the gauges are fine (as per the test) but the tank sensor is bad.

How many miles the DTE (Distance to Empty) shows? enough for a full tank or about half a tank?
Old 06-07-2011, 11:27 AM
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I've had issues with mine in cold weather. It would register half a tank or less, no matter how much was in. Had them check the sensor when they replaced my tank, but of course they couldn't find anything wrong. Now that it's warm (hot actually), haven't had any other issues with it.



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