Hellbound13

Okay it looks like the Lucas is red lithium 12-OH grease, and the other grease is Special calcium sulfonate complex, so according to this chart they are BORDERLINE, assuming that lithium 12 OH grease is Lithium 12 Hydroxstreate on this chart?

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/...-compatibility


Man I hope I did not just destroy my $500 ball joints, tie rod ends ect..

ronjenx

Borderline is not instant destruction.
I would just grease it a little more often for a while to speed up the purge process.

Hellbound13

So go back to the lucas red n tacky and purge as much as i can?

ronjenx

When changing types of grease, the proper thing to do is purge as much as you can as long as doing so will not blow any seals. Then, increase the lube frequency for a while until it's obvious no more of the old stuff is still inside.

Where you have two "borderline" grease compatibilities, I wouldn't be worried about long term problems.

Find a good quality, common grease and stick with it.

Hellbound13

Yeah I just tried purging, but almost blew a lower ball joint seal. Luckily the rubber boot just popped up at the bottom of the ball joint where it meets the knuckle over the stud and not where the seal actually wraps around the ball joint itself.

Also my drag link end will not take anymore grease, its spitting it out the zerk from being full. I don't think there a seal to blow on there because the rubber "pucks" floats freely on top of the that joint and is not permanently attached to the joint.

Is Lucas Red and Tacky good for this application or was the marine grease a better choice?

ronjenx

Any grease designed for automotive chassis lubrication is good with frequent application.

Synthetics may last longer, requiring less frequent application.

I've never heard of the two greases you mentioned.

Hellbound13

I grease every 1000 miles. These are the two greases..