3K off of sticker?
#22
Originally Posted by orangeJK
I got a total discount of $6370 on a pretty much loaded 2 door rubi 2011.
#23
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I'm not to sure on how to do the math
So here's my numbers if you would like to figure it out
Total price was 38140.00
Total discount 7367
total sale price 30773
Made an error with the discount on my prev post
So here's my numbers if you would like to figure it out
Total price was 38140.00
Total discount 7367
total sale price 30773
Made an error with the discount on my prev post
#24
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#25
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Orange JK got a great deal.
Some may say, how can a dealer discount over $6k but if you look at how the vehicles are padded you can see that there is a great possibility that with a loaded RUBI, plus examples of those rebates and rate, you can do it.
Do keep in mind, I know dealers will actually lose money on a previous year model just to move it. The logic is that for every 1 2011 JK sold, Jeep will send 2 2012 JKs to their lot. So if the dealer can still 'win' by selling volume through the current year model vehicle.
Some may say, how can a dealer discount over $6k but if you look at how the vehicles are padded you can see that there is a great possibility that with a loaded RUBI, plus examples of those rebates and rate, you can do it.
Do keep in mind, I know dealers will actually lose money on a previous year model just to move it. The logic is that for every 1 2011 JK sold, Jeep will send 2 2012 JKs to their lot. So if the dealer can still 'win' by selling volume through the current year model vehicle.
#26
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You really have to shop around a lot. some dealers quoted me 38 and 39 out the door. Remember your in control of your purchase Do Not let them work you over out of your hard earned money. I should also note that I got a employee discount through my dad which helped a lot.
Mine wasn't sitting on the lot either, factory order made just for me
Mine wasn't sitting on the lot either, factory order made just for me
#27
I got the car for:
Base Price: $33,570.00
MSRP: $39,950.00
YOUR PRICE: $36,950.00
TRADE: $22,000
I thought this was a good deal, yes -no?
Going to try to get the Tread discount. I have not signed anything yet, but gave them a CC for a deposit.
Attachment 247943
Base Price: $33,570.00
MSRP: $39,950.00
YOUR PRICE: $36,950.00
TRADE: $22,000
I thought this was a good deal, yes -no?
Going to try to get the Tread discount. I have not signed anything yet, but gave them a CC for a deposit.
Attachment 247943
Good thing you didn't sign.....You have a lil more work to do
https://www.truecar.com/prices-new/j...=893428,891849
Last edited by Lotus F1; 12-10-2011 at 08:38 AM.
#28
You really have to shop around a lot. some dealers quoted me 38 and 39 out the door. Remember your in control of your purchase Do Not let them work you over out of your hard earned money. I should also note that I got a employee discount through my dad which helped a lot.
Mine wasn't sitting on the lot either, factory order made just for me
Mine wasn't sitting on the lot either, factory order made just for me
BTW: You got about 19.3% off sticker, or 9% off Invoice. I think they made about a 5 cents off you lol.
Last edited by Lotus F1; 12-10-2011 at 08:34 AM.
#29
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There are several considerations in evaluating, and comparing, vehicle prices.
1. Discount, if any, off MSRP.
2. Invoice price.
3. True dealer cost, which includes hold-back and hidden manufacturer to dealer rebates and discounts.
4. Trade allowance.
5. Buying from inventory versus ordering. Usually, ordering is cheaper because the dealer won't be paying floor plan interest. However, sometimes, buying from inventory is cheaper, if the dealer has a vehicle that has been sitting unsold or that will meet a quota.
6. Financing rate through dealer.
7. Misc. bumps such as dealer-added options and administrative fees. Note, taxes and tag fees actually paid to the State and local government should be excluded, from a comparison, because they are the same for all. However, admin fees such as " taking the paperwork to the MVA/DOT " are additional markup, by the dealer, and must be considered in a true comparison and evaluation.
There are many internet resources where a buyer can educate himself about all these factors. However, unless you do so, you are at the mercy of trained professionals whose job is to make as much profit as they can.
1. Discount, if any, off MSRP.
2. Invoice price.
3. True dealer cost, which includes hold-back and hidden manufacturer to dealer rebates and discounts.
4. Trade allowance.
5. Buying from inventory versus ordering. Usually, ordering is cheaper because the dealer won't be paying floor plan interest. However, sometimes, buying from inventory is cheaper, if the dealer has a vehicle that has been sitting unsold or that will meet a quota.
6. Financing rate through dealer.
7. Misc. bumps such as dealer-added options and administrative fees. Note, taxes and tag fees actually paid to the State and local government should be excluded, from a comparison, because they are the same for all. However, admin fees such as " taking the paperwork to the MVA/DOT " are additional markup, by the dealer, and must be considered in a true comparison and evaluation.
There are many internet resources where a buyer can educate himself about all these factors. However, unless you do so, you are at the mercy of trained professionals whose job is to make as much profit as they can.
#30
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Hmmm... I am in Idaho. The car is through a dealer in Colorado. I just done see how I can get the price down another 2K!
Last edited by rubiman; 12-10-2011 at 09:23 AM.