FoxRacingJMC

While there is no telling what the future holds, cause if that was the case, I'd be a millionaire. However, I can say with KNOWLEDGABLE wheeling on the trail(knowing your limits, keep the wheels from spinning to get over obstacles, avoid wheel hop, etc), you can do just fine with 37's on a D30.

Again, everyone has their "expert" opinions, but only you ultimately make up your rigs fate... The biggest of baddest rigs with 20K+ in mods(and mods, I mean drivetrain/armor/etc, not grab handles and a CAI) can have something fail on them....whether its driver inflicted, or just happens to be a "bad batch" of product.

TreyJkOrlando

Thanks guys. I really feel like just driving back and forth to school and work on 37's with a D30 shouldn't be a huge problem. I go mudding once in a blue moon because I'm so busy. It's not like I'm going rock crawling with the setup here in Florida lol.

FoxRacingJMC

I will say it's a smart idea to at least weld on some gussets to the front C's, top and bottom. Axle sleeve is also something to consider, but not needed as much as the gussets. If you start to sleeve, you are ultimately building up the D30 housing and tubes which involves a lot more work and a lot more money when all that's not really needed, but wouldn't hurt to have.

TreyJkOrlando

Gotcha. Thank you!

hypeiv

Install C gussets and don't do anything crazy like put a locker in it... keep the OEM drive shafts b/c you want that to be the weak link. As other said don't gas it crazy hard through a rock garden and you likely won't have any issue... but with any extreme mod, keep some savings just in case.

Dynatrac

To answer the question of the OP, yes, in street driving the 30 will be fine. As others have said, gussets aren't a bad idea as the added height/leverage of the larger tire is well known to effect your 'C' and camber angle.

As for off road, I work with guys everyday that wish they never added .02$ to their 30s. Even a moderate trail can sometimes cause failure ( I know, some people run them- but many others fail) and wreck your day. Adding a locker makes a big difference in ability and failure rate. If you're going to do significant wheeling, it's best to skip the 30 build up costs and do a 44.

Bonedoc

If your talking a Factory dana 30 to a Factory dana 44 then your biggest difference is the ring and pinion strength and axle shafts. The tubes and C's are basically the same. Most failures if you research it are ring and pinion or axle shaft related and a very high percentage of those involve having a locker in the front.

Like has been said previously, go easy as it isn't bullerproof. Atleast add C-gussets as these bend easily on both dana 30 and 44's and avoid a locker in the front. I have about 40K on my dana 30 with no issues. But I know if failure does occur...it will get replaced with either a PR44 or 60....then the world will really change....hhhhmmm cause that will probaly bring flat fenders...then maybe a 1" body lift....then 40's....etc.....it doesn't end.....

emiles1987

What about upgrading to a stronger ring & pinion like yukon (or is the d30 size the issue)?? And chromo shafts? Sorry for beating the hell out of this horse.

Bonedoc

It is the dana 30 size that is the issue. Because it is smaller the teeth get smaller. If you look at the teeth of a dana 30 next a dana 44, the 44 has more meat to it. Plus as you go lower in your gearing, the amount of teeth on the pinion that contact the ring gear gets less. For a dana 30 with a 5.13 ring and pinion it has barely more than 1 tooth meshed at a time as it turns. That leads to a potential weak spot. The dana 44 at the same gear ratio because of its bigger diameter has several teeth meshed together at any given point in rotation giving it greater strength

emiles1987

Makes perfect sense. How do your 4:88's look on the D30? I'm hoping to bump up to 37's in the spring and would like to avoid purchasing a new axle for another year or so. I do wheel it a few times per month.