resharp001

Well, I can give you my opinion, but that's all it is, and you're unlikely to get any others drawn into this thread at the moment, so if you want more, possibly differing, opinions you might want to start a new thread. You also haven't really described how you use the jeep, but I'd say the following -

The whole stacked spacer up front is a mess IMO. You have 33s and the height you currently have doesn't make sense to me, especially with the manner it is currently achieved. I would drop that down to a 2-2.5" lift if it were me and get some decent shocks. Preferably this would be new springs, but at the very least remove that lower spacer off the front coil, and then level it out in the rear if need be. You'd have to reverse the high steer kit and put the DL back to the underside of the knuckle, and then lower the track bar back down to the factory location. With that Synergy drag link you can mount it in both directions so that wouldn't cost anything at least. You'd still benefit from a raised TB bracket in the rear. If you have cam bolts, I'd ditch them and use a cam bolt eliminator (I loath cam bolts). Lowering the jeep a bit should help raise the caster too, and hopefully the control arm brackets you saw are on it are then enough caster correction to get you back above 4° or at least close to it.

With factory ball joints you should always keep small budget for replacement if/when those things go. BJs are ~$250 + 3 hours of labor (either paid for your done yourself), and that is never a fun unexpected expense. Not saying you have to do it right now if you have no issues, just saying keep a little budget for it.

Ohio2012wrangler

Thanks I appreciate it. I use the jeep as my daily driver and do mild wheelin. Just trails and small creek stuff, no big hill climbs or deep mud holes. (gotta get to work) The jeep had 35's on it but when they needed replaced I could not get 35's in my area. (yeah, I know) but I'd like to go back to 35's when they need replaced again. So, what if I did away with the spacers and went with new springs and shocks for the lift to keep the 3 inches? Then I'd keep the DL flipped and track bar raised. Right? Add the cam bolt eliminator and I already ordered the rear track bar bracket.

Let me know if I'm way off. I'm just learning so you won't hurt my feelings.

Thanks again.

resharp001

WIth the DL flip you just need to have 3" or more lift, and run 3" bump stops (which you have), or else you'll be banging your DL right into the underside of your frame rail when you stuff the passenger tire. I subscribe to the philosophy that you shouldn't go higher than you need to in order to accommodate the tire size you want. With 35s, 2.5" is a nice match. You can go higher if you want, but it doesn't help performance (higher center of gravity). If you do go with new springs , just know many of them will net you more lift than they say.

Ohio2012wrangler

Ok, so 2.5 is the goal. I go with springs for 2.5 lift, shocks, and flip the dl back around. Still do the cam bolt eliminator (which I can't find online yet) and still raise the rear track bar.

Sorry for all the questions.

resharp001

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/h...tor-washer-kit

Just a washer kit like this so that the hole that got knocked out to accommodate the cam bolts can be closed up to normal bolt-sized hole again. If you don't mind the cam bolts, you can leave them in. I just don't trust them myself.....not on a vehicle that goes offroad and experiences many different stresses/pressures than a typical vehicle does. Keep in mind this is all just 1 person's opinion.

Ohio2012wrangler

Not a problem. So I'm correct on the other stuff right? Just to be clear.