X or Rubicon - Which model JK to start with for a solid build
12-22-2009, 09:23 AM
#32
JK Super Freak
After 27 months of ownership I have still not got around to the tire/suspension/gear mods but can put it off until next year because the basic Rubicon package is pretty capable. So for me the Rubi was the right choice.
I had planned the above mods sooner, but after driving it around for a year or so I modded what was bugging me the most, which set my tire/lift/regear mod back a bit.
I do not want to start the next steps until I have the money saved up to do it all as a system.
If you have the cash to do all your mods right away, then I would buy the X and mod it. But I would want to do the whole package all at once to make it right.
I had planned the above mods sooner, but after driving it around for a year or so I modded what was bugging me the most, which set my tire/lift/regear mod back a bit.
I do not want to start the next steps until I have the money saved up to do it all as a system.
If you have the cash to do all your mods right away, then I would buy the X and mod it. But I would want to do the whole package all at once to make it right.
12-22-2009, 08:20 PM
#33
JK Junkie
He could save 2k+ going with the X if he just bought a used rubicon t-case from a junkyard.
Oh, and from what I have read, the rubicrawler box from Adv Adt. ONLY works with the rubicon t-case.
Oh, and from what I have read, the rubicrawler box from Adv Adt. ONLY works with the rubicon t-case.
12-22-2009, 08:27 PM
#34
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naw, should work for a X as well from what I've read. I'm thinking about getting one after I regear.
12-30-2009, 07:21 AM
#35
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I've got two 4 dr rubi's. One has a 3" lift, Warn bumpers, Warn Power Plant. Still has the 33's. I've run it hard in Moab and on CO trails like Holy Cross. No problem, never been broken. This is a good build on a Rubi. The Rubi Dana 44's, transfer case, sway bars, and lockers are all good.
It happens I've got the big build bug--building it more extreme rock crawling. So, after starting with a Rubi, by the end of the 1Q of 10, I won't have anything left of the Rubi package. (i'm going to get Dana 60's, and am going to go with 40+ tires). If I had known I was going to get the big build bug I wouldn't have bought a Rubi.
The Rubi with a modest lift is awesome in capability--it can handle city or trough trails.
The Rubi with the big lift, new engine, new axles, new sway, etc isn't a Rubi anymore anyway. It is, however, way awesome on big rocks.
It happens I've got the big build bug--building it more extreme rock crawling. So, after starting with a Rubi, by the end of the 1Q of 10, I won't have anything left of the Rubi package. (i'm going to get Dana 60's, and am going to go with 40+ tires). If I had known I was going to get the big build bug I wouldn't have bought a Rubi.
The Rubi with a modest lift is awesome in capability--it can handle city or trough trails.
The Rubi with the big lift, new engine, new axles, new sway, etc isn't a Rubi anymore anyway. It is, however, way awesome on big rocks.
12-30-2009, 09:00 PM
#36
JK Enthusiast
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WOW!!!! I DONT KNOW IF YOUR BUYING A 2010 OR ARE JUST GETTING JACKED, but when I purchased my rig it was a brand new bone stock 08 X and only had a auto tranny, no power anything, crappy tiny wheels, and no A\C but i only payed $19000 flat!!!! i dont know how after 2 years a base model X jumped up to $27K??????
Last edited by JEEPSHANE; 12-30-2009 at 09:15 PM.
12-30-2009, 09:59 PM
#37
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Or you could build a Time machine out of a Deloran, go back to 2007 when the JK was first introduced and see if you could find a two door X model with the Dana 44 with the 4.10 gears. I saw mine at the dealership an jumped on it once I knew it hat that ratio in the rear.
12-31-2009, 07:49 AM
#38
JeepSWAG
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WOW!!!! I DONT KNOW IF YOUR BUYING A 2010 OR ARE JUST GETTING JACKED, but when I purchased my rig it was a brand new bone stock 08 X and only had a auto tranny, no power anything, crappy tiny wheels, and no A\C but i only payed $19000 flat!!!! i dont know how after 2 years a base model X jumped up to $27K??????
I used suggested retail for comparison purposes.
12-31-2009, 09:56 AM
#39
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I started with an X to keep the initial costs down, knowing at some point I would be upgrading or out right replacing certain parts.
If I were to do it again I would start with a 2wd to get the initial costs even lower. If you are replacing a t-case and front axle about the only other major cost to convert would be a front drive shaft. Which if you started with a 4wd you would most likely replace when you lift it anyway.
If I were to do it again I would start with a 2wd to get the initial costs even lower. If you are replacing a t-case and front axle about the only other major cost to convert would be a front drive shaft. Which if you started with a 4wd you would most likely replace when you lift it anyway.