chuck45

If you have access to a MIG welder I'd go with that. I hardly ever use stick any more unless I'm outside, which is rare. There is certainly no particular reason to use stick on this application in preference to MIG. And since you are working in close quarters the MIG torch is much easier to manuever. Just be sure to take your time, make short weld, alternate sides, and cool things down.

rab986

I would use 7018 , or something with a higher nickel content and if you use stick then heat the rod to about 300 (oven works fine). Clean and grind your welding surfaces to a nice sheeny finish and Preheat to atleast 250 with a torch. I would use stick or tig over mig just for the fact that they penetrate better but I don't think the difference is enough to effect you either way in this application. So basically whatever you are more comfortable using.

Good luck and postsome pics when finished.

sn4cktime

Let's start the flames up. I've got some opinions.


You can't go pre-heating the axle tubes unless you disassemble them. You'd cook all the grease, and warp them to s..t. And then burn up everything around them.

I'd still go with MIG for most unprofessional welders. The gussets aren't thick metal, and are only re-enforcing the C's, not taking their place. If you're using stick and not a welder by trade I'd still go with a small 6010, as it'll be easier "in-position". If you know what you're doing 7018 would work just as well, if you don't it'll go all ploppy on the overheads and horizontals. Then it'll look like garbage and be about as functional.

Keeping in mind that EVO themselves recommends MIG, as it get's enough pen and is fast enough a process to not overheat the parent material (AKA the tubes), that would be ideal.

I think TIG would give you the BEST looking (as per pretty much anything TIG welded) and penetration given the material thickness. But it's also the most skilled process and if you're too slow can add lots of heat into the parent material. So it needs a "better" welder and has more go-bad potential than MIG, not a lot, but some.

There are different processes for different reasons. And everyone has a preference on how they like to weld. But just because I use 7018 and 3/16's Flux Core at work (which I do, EVERYDAY) doesn't mean I should do light gauge metals with it. That's what MIG and TIG were invented for. Well, TIG was designed to work on alternate materials... but we won't go there. When I fabbed light gauge at another shop I never used a stick welder....

Flame on.

chuck45

I'm not a profesional welder by trade, but I have been welding since the mid 70's. I can't argue with anything you've said above as it all makes sense.

racer83l

well, I have an 220 arc welder, but dont know how to weld. (I did some welding maybe 5 years ago, but only welded some angle iron together to get a feel for welding.) Im thinking the control arm skids are a good place to try it out.. im thinking un bolt the control arms to get the rubber bushings out of the way, then go to town.. if that works out OK ill do the gussets, Im thinking this is a good place to basically practice because they are only re-inforcing what already works...

so 6013 or 1/16" OR either will fit the bill?

David @ Currie Ent.

The "c's" are not cast, the are 1045 Forging

Benchmark Designs Inc.

Yep, just MIG those on if you have access to one. Out of position arc welding is a PITA.

redroc_jk

MIG will do the job. The welds will be strong enough for the app. if the prep work is done right.

backwoodjk

Here is a picture of how the gusset turned out on my Jeep. I used a 110v Lincoln wire feed arc. It has also been 16 years since I did any welding.. go easy on me.

It is not too pretty, but feels really solid and should do the job.

Evolution

Looks great. Just like riding a bike

EVO...