Welding experts???
04-27-2010, 07:40 AM
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JK Freak
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Welding experts???
Looking to learn how to weld. I mgiht take a course this summer but was really wondering how hard it is? Ive seen electric welders for like 200 bucks on amazon. Are they worth it? Could i weld in an exhaust with it? Could i weld in a roll bar??? What is a good welding machine to learn on? any one wanna help explain some of these things to me?? Thanks
04-28-2010, 05:21 AM
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Don't buy a cheapie
I'm not an expert per se but I can give you a few tips.
Don't buy a cheapie welder because you'll soon want to upgrade. Stick with something well known that is American made. And don't buy a simple plug in 115v unit, go with 230v or at least a unit that has the ability to run 115 and 230. Several companies have units with auto settings (e.g. Millermatic Auto Set feature). This is good to get you out of the box and running but after you get good you'll want to fine tune the settings especially when you're welding different metals (stainless, aluminum).
Welding isn't rocket science but it sure helps a bunch to have someone there who knows how to do it when you're learning. Getting the settings right is crucial and then learning how to push/pull the gun for various jobs makes a difference in how your welds turn out.
The general school of thought is that MIG is the easiest to learn. That is probably the case for most people. If you buy a MIG welder, you can run flux cored wire (no shielding gas needed) or you can run straight wire and use a shielding gas, which is usually an argon and CO2 mix. Get an auto darkening hood b/c it'll make life easier when getting the gun in position.
Go to the Miller, Lincoln and Hobart websites and poke around. There's a lot of good info there.
Don't buy a cheapie welder because you'll soon want to upgrade. Stick with something well known that is American made. And don't buy a simple plug in 115v unit, go with 230v or at least a unit that has the ability to run 115 and 230. Several companies have units with auto settings (e.g. Millermatic Auto Set feature). This is good to get you out of the box and running but after you get good you'll want to fine tune the settings especially when you're welding different metals (stainless, aluminum).
Welding isn't rocket science but it sure helps a bunch to have someone there who knows how to do it when you're learning. Getting the settings right is crucial and then learning how to push/pull the gun for various jobs makes a difference in how your welds turn out.
The general school of thought is that MIG is the easiest to learn. That is probably the case for most people. If you buy a MIG welder, you can run flux cored wire (no shielding gas needed) or you can run straight wire and use a shielding gas, which is usually an argon and CO2 mix. Get an auto darkening hood b/c it'll make life easier when getting the gun in position.
Go to the Miller, Lincoln and Hobart websites and poke around. There's a lot of good info there.
05-04-2010, 05:17 AM
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I'm not an expert per se but I can give you a few tips.
Don't buy a cheapie welder because you'll soon want to upgrade. Stick with something well known that is American made. And don't buy a simple plug in 115v unit, go with 230v or at least a unit that has the ability to run 115 and 230. Several companies have units with auto settings (e.g. Millermatic Auto Set feature). This is good to get you out of the box and running but after you get good you'll want to fine tune the settings especially when you're welding different metals (stainless, aluminum).
Welding isn't rocket science but it sure helps a bunch to have someone there who knows how to do it when you're learning. Getting the settings right is crucial and then learning how to push/pull the gun for various jobs makes a difference in how your welds turn out.
The general school of thought is that MIG is the easiest to learn. That is probably the case for most people. If you buy a MIG welder, you can run flux cored wire (no shielding gas needed) or you can run straight wire and use a shielding gas, which is usually an argon and CO2 mix. Get an auto darkening hood b/c it'll make life easier when getting the gun in position.
Go to the Miller, Lincoln and Hobart websites and poke around. There's a lot of good info there.
Don't buy a cheapie welder because you'll soon want to upgrade. Stick with something well known that is American made. And don't buy a simple plug in 115v unit, go with 230v or at least a unit that has the ability to run 115 and 230. Several companies have units with auto settings (e.g. Millermatic Auto Set feature). This is good to get you out of the box and running but after you get good you'll want to fine tune the settings especially when you're welding different metals (stainless, aluminum).
Welding isn't rocket science but it sure helps a bunch to have someone there who knows how to do it when you're learning. Getting the settings right is crucial and then learning how to push/pull the gun for various jobs makes a difference in how your welds turn out.
The general school of thought is that MIG is the easiest to learn. That is probably the case for most people. If you buy a MIG welder, you can run flux cored wire (no shielding gas needed) or you can run straight wire and use a shielding gas, which is usually an argon and CO2 mix. Get an auto darkening hood b/c it'll make life easier when getting the gun in position.
Go to the Miller, Lincoln and Hobart websites and poke around. There's a lot of good info there.
05-05-2010, 01:03 AM
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I'm not an expert per se but I can give you a few tips.
Don't buy a cheapie welder because you'll soon want to upgrade. Stick with something well known that is American made. And don't buy a simple plug in 115v unit, go with 230v or at least a unit that has the ability to run 115 and 230. Several companies have units with auto settings (e.g. Millermatic Auto Set feature). This is good to get you out of the box and running but after you get good you'll want to fine tune the settings especially when you're welding different metals (stainless, aluminum).
Welding isn't rocket science but it sure helps a bunch to have someone there who knows how to do it when you're learning. Getting the settings right is crucial and then learning how to push/pull the gun for various jobs makes a difference in how your welds turn out.
The general school of thought is that MIG is the easiest to learn. That is probably the case for most people. If you buy a MIG welder, you can run flux cored wire (no shielding gas needed) or you can run straight wire and use a shielding gas, which is usually an argon and CO2 mix. Get an auto darkening hood b/c it'll make life easier when getting the gun in position.
Go to the Miller, Lincoln and Hobart websites and poke around. There's a lot of good info there.
Don't buy a cheapie welder because you'll soon want to upgrade. Stick with something well known that is American made. And don't buy a simple plug in 115v unit, go with 230v or at least a unit that has the ability to run 115 and 230. Several companies have units with auto settings (e.g. Millermatic Auto Set feature). This is good to get you out of the box and running but after you get good you'll want to fine tune the settings especially when you're welding different metals (stainless, aluminum).
Welding isn't rocket science but it sure helps a bunch to have someone there who knows how to do it when you're learning. Getting the settings right is crucial and then learning how to push/pull the gun for various jobs makes a difference in how your welds turn out.
The general school of thought is that MIG is the easiest to learn. That is probably the case for most people. If you buy a MIG welder, you can run flux cored wire (no shielding gas needed) or you can run straight wire and use a shielding gas, which is usually an argon and CO2 mix. Get an auto darkening hood b/c it'll make life easier when getting the gun in position.
Go to the Miller, Lincoln and Hobart websites and poke around. There's a lot of good info there.
Mig is probably the most versatile and is the easiest to learn. A good 230V Lincoln or Miller would work great.
Good luck.
05-05-2010, 01:50 AM
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I agree take a night school course before you toast your wheels in a way you never intended.
Hopefully you already know how not to fry your computers/bearings etc. by locating the welder grounds as needed?
Unless you're planning on a lot of welding in the future...why wouldn't you just pay the man down the road that knows what he's doing?
He fries something-he replaces.
No, welding isn't rocket science but when you're dealing with a vehicle designed and built with the thinest/lightest high tensile steels it's definitely the wrong place to be saying "oh sh-t" as you get a burn through during the weld process or a weld breaking later.
Just a thought...Your money...
Hopefully you already know how not to fry your computers/bearings etc. by locating the welder grounds as needed?
Unless you're planning on a lot of welding in the future...why wouldn't you just pay the man down the road that knows what he's doing?
He fries something-he replaces.
No, welding isn't rocket science but when you're dealing with a vehicle designed and built with the thinest/lightest high tensile steels it's definitely the wrong place to be saying "oh sh-t" as you get a burn through during the weld process or a weld breaking later.
Just a thought...Your money...
05-07-2010, 09:47 AM
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The more voltage the machine has to work with, the smoother the volt-amp conversion will "feel" coming out the business end (easy explanation version). All welders are taking high-voltage/low-amperage and converting it to high-amp/low-volt. You'll also find the machine won't be smokin' hot when you're welding anything higher than that 3/16"
Also, even with one of those tiny little MIG welder that state 3/16" material thickness, keep in mind that's recommended weldment size with a single pass. Can always multi-pass something, or manipulate a MIG weld more than most other weld types and stile get a good result.
Buddy up to someone in your area who's got a MIG, give him a case of beer and weld the crap out some scrap metal, thin gauge and thicker plate. You'll be good to go. It's like operating a high-speed high-heat glue gun!
Also, even with one of those tiny little MIG welder that state 3/16" material thickness, keep in mind that's recommended weldment size with a single pass. Can always multi-pass something, or manipulate a MIG weld more than most other weld types and stile get a good result.
Buddy up to someone in your area who's got a MIG, give him a case of beer and weld the crap out some scrap metal, thin gauge and thicker plate. You'll be good to go. It's like operating a high-speed high-heat glue gun!
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05-08-2010, 08:05 PM
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A 115 welder will work for cosmetic stuff and an exhaust, but for anything structural i.e. a roll cage i wouldn't trust it. They don't run hot enough to penatrate the metal. Flux core is crap. For small home projects you don't need a auto hood. A good auto hood isn't worth the $ for home projects ( around $300). The best way to learn is to get a welder and a bunch of scrap metal. I'm sure you can find a instructional video on you tube. I was a profesional welder for 3 years.
I've been welding for ten years now, cert.'ed for 8 of those, and I still learn something new everyday. Spend the money on a good machine, and do your best to steady your patience and you'll be fine. Or contact a Union boilermaker, pipefitter, or ironworker in your area. I'd go for the Ironworker myself.....
Miller
05-14-2010, 11:56 AM
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welder
Taking a beginers course at your local college is a great way to start. As far as machines go I personally use a MM212 in my garage. It welds anything I need. Something that I havent seen posted is the Duty Cycle. If you are to run a 115v machine the duty cycle on some of those cranked way up is very short. I saw a machine with a 10% duty cycle the other day. So you are recomended to weld for 1 minute and let it cool for 9 minutes. You may end up running to your breaker box more than actually welding. If you were to go with a 115v machine I would recommend something like the Hobart Handler 140 with Strait Co2 for more penetration. More to clean up but you get more bite. If you were welding a 1 3/4 tube .120 wall the Hobart 140 would work. It is rated up to 1/4 cranked WAY up. Remember to prep you material. You will weld much better on a good clean surface. Do NOT buy one of these cheep welders that you find for a few hundred bucks. Its money wasted. Some times your budget will not allow you to go out and buy a bigger machine. I would tell you to save your money until you can afford something with a little more power behind it. Good luck.
05-16-2010, 07:22 PM
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Hmmm, professional welder for 3 whole years. And your not one anymore because.....?, i'll just leave that blank for now. our right about the, 110's, being to, "light" for anything other then cosmetic stuff, I don't care who you are, they just can't run hot enough for anything structural. And as far as flux core being crap, if you don't know what your doing, then yeah that wire sucks, but with a good machine, and patience, and practice anyone can make it look like butter, just take your time. Different brands of wire run differently in different machines, wow that was a twister. And always make yourself comfortable, position wise.
I've been welding for ten years now, cert.'ed for 8 of those, and I still learn something new everyday. Spend the money on a good machine, and do your best to steady your patience and you'll be fine. Or contact a Union boilermaker, pipefitter, or ironworker in your area. I'd go for the Ironworker myself.....
Miller
I've been welding for ten years now, cert.'ed for 8 of those, and I still learn something new everyday. Spend the money on a good machine, and do your best to steady your patience and you'll be fine. Or contact a Union boilermaker, pipefitter, or ironworker in your area. I'd go for the Ironworker myself.....
Miller
Good luck with welding if a great past time.
Mike
Oh BryGuy. Not many Newfies on here. Good to see another one!!! I grew up in St. John's.