Cesar

thats a pretty good welder. should be just fine!

chuck45

I recently purchased a Hobart 210 Handler MIG Welder and am impressed with it. I recently welded the ORE C2 braces on the front axle of my JK. Since I recently got the machine and hadn't practiced vertical welding I had a welder from work come over to the house and do the vertical welds for me. He's a 20+ year welder working in a demanding high end fab department (working on 1 million dollar plus trailers) and is used to using high end Miller and Lincoln equipment. He was impressed with it and how smooth it was. He said that if he needed a welder at home it's what he would buy. I paid 850 for it. Of course as a 210 machine it needs 230 volts.

Zylfrax791

I own a 140C Lincoln Electric welder and its the best for what I do. I'm an Auto Body Tech and I use it pretty much on a daily basis. I've used other brands but the Lincoln is hands down the best. Plus you can find consumables at any Home Depot or farm store in the USA for that matter. Only downside is I'm pretty sure the Weld Pack series is tapped instead of continuous which means the heat control is a notched potentiometer instead of a smooth control knob with infinite control.

Cruiser

I have the 135 lincoln,, get the 180,, its not too much welder,, you can almost never have too much of a welder... I've been welding for years and picked up this little 135 lincoln for the house as I dont have 220 in the garage(basement garage) and its great for what it is,, but when your used to really good welders,, well,, its 110,, and you think you really wont have to burn more than 1/4" until you need to.. It is great at sheetmetal..

biglynny

We had two lincoln welder's in our shop...180's I think and we loved 'em and used the s$$t out of them but they never have let us down that I know of.

Bub

Question: When welding on the JK is merely disconnecting the battery cables enough to insure against killing the ecu's?

chuck45

That is all I did and I had no problems. At work we have a fleet of Kenworths pulling multimillion $ trailers loaded with multiple engines, pumps etc; all contolled by computers and all our mechanics and welders do is diconnect the batteries.

Bub

Thanks Chuck45. That'll make what I'm about to do a little easier.

sn4cktime

There's always a chance that electricity could flow through the ECU. But it's not likely as long as you put your work lead (ground clamp) as close to the welding area as possible. This is a good habit to maintain on vehicles anyway as arcs crossing through bearings is a bad thing as well. Used to weld on big oilfield rigs, and if it was a super quick under the table repair, like in/cut/weld/spray-paint in under 10 minutes sometimes we wouldn't even pull the battery leads. But that's a BAD practice... But when a driver hands you $300 to weld on a D-Ring in under 10, there's some motivation to hustle.

Snap-Off

Not sure about the Lincoln one. I've always been a Snap-On guy even if they have hassled me in the past (Hence the Snap-Off name). Its all in good fun.

My buddy and I just recently found a Snap-On 'Muscle Mig' welder with a TIG add on kit option on craigs list. The seller wanted $1,500 for it, with a bottle and we couldn't pass it up. List price is $2,995.

I couldn't be more happy... its 120v (I could weld in the bathroom if I wanted!)

Its got the option to do TIG down the road (If I ever learn TIG)

Spot, Stitch and Continuous modes.

Can weld up to 1/4" steel with .035 feed wire!

Instead of putting money into a lower quality unit, even if you're a novice... I still say do your best to find a deal on a pricey one and snag it. If the $150 off for that welder is a good deal (from someone who knows Lincoln's models well) then take it!

Wish I could be of more help to you with that specific welder