Upgrading to ProRock 60s
04-30-2009, 03:08 AM
#11
They are Semi float
I chose them because IMO they are the best and competition built axles.
yes they do have a big price tag.. but at then end I know i'm getting Extremely well Axles.
I also add all the options to them. the competition shafts (which is at the moment an over kill) but i'll be upgrading to 42" tires..
They do also have more clearance than all D60 axles and more than a D44
They are the Axles used in PNY2009 and those guys picked them for a reason.. Durability
It will pay it's self off
I chose them because IMO they are the best and competition built axles.
yes they do have a big price tag.. but at then end I know i'm getting Extremely well Axles.
I also add all the options to them. the competition shafts (which is at the moment an over kill) but i'll be upgrading to 42" tires..
They do also have more clearance than all D60 axles and more than a D44
They are the Axles used in PNY2009 and those guys picked them for a reason.. Durability
It will pay it's self off
I want to build my own due to the fact that no one in the aftermarket is using king pin fronts and full float rear. I feal there is a huge advantage with just those two options.
If you ever want to do any major work on your axles later, look up a guy in denver with the last name of Staub. He helped me cut and turn my front axle.
I miss those Colorado trails. When you get those 42"s head down to the Independance trais south of Colorado Springs. IMO the best crawling trails in the world.
04-30-2009, 05:22 AM
#12
JK Junkie
You might want to check with Mel at Off Road Evo. I remember seeing an article in a magazine a while back that he installed these axles into a JK, and he had a wiring harness so it would all plug into the factory system.
04-30-2009, 10:48 AM
#16
JK Junkie
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Thanks for your comments. I have seen a few of those axles around, I never gave them much thought. I plan to build a set of axles later this fall on an older jeep I have. D44s just cannot handle tires bigger than 35".
I want to build my own due to the fact that no one in the aftermarket is using king pin fronts and full float rear. I feal there is a huge advantage with just those two options.
If you ever want to do any major work on your axles later, look up a guy in denver with the last name of Staub. He helped me cut and turn my front axle.
I miss those Colorado trails. When you get those 42"s head down to the Independance trais south of Colorado Springs. IMO the best crawling trails in the world.
I want to build my own due to the fact that no one in the aftermarket is using king pin fronts and full float rear. I feal there is a huge advantage with just those two options.
If you ever want to do any major work on your axles later, look up a guy in denver with the last name of Staub. He helped me cut and turn my front axle.
I miss those Colorado trails. When you get those 42"s head down to the Independance trais south of Colorado Springs. IMO the best crawling trails in the world.
Independence is one of the trails I have todo
Last edited by Lo2aY; 04-30-2009 at 11:02 AM.
04-30-2009, 10:54 AM
#17
JK Junkie
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It shouldn't be that hard to do. You have the wires to the plunger and obviously the plunger is no longer in use. The plunger, when extended, probably completed a circuit causing the dash light to go on. You could probably hook the plunger wires to a relay such that flipping the switch to activate the lockers also activated the relay, competeing the circuit, and thereby lighting the dash light. It sound more convoluted than it is. Or perhaps you could T into the wire to the dash and put power to it and the locker at the same time. But with the CANBUS system I don't know if that would work while I'm pretty sure the other would.
If only wayoflifette can give us more Details
Right Chuck Thanks for the input guys
wayoflifette more details please
Should I get a six lug bolt pattern or five? Either way it's still not the factory bolt pattern.... what do you guys think?
04-30-2009, 11:03 AM
#18
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Having installed a front factory locker here is how it works and my thoughts on how to make it work with an arb.
The locker works with a simple activation of a 12 constant voltage. You could hook this up to the relay that activates the arb air switch and you should be good to go.
If you want to have the computer work correctly you could try this: The second set of wires to the factory locker is a negative wire that is simply closed by a switch in the locker after it activates. You could replace this locker activated switch with a relay that is activated by the arb switch relay---i.e take the switched positive pole off of the arb relay and wire it to a second relay. When the arb relay activates, the second relay would then activate, closing the switch wires from the factory. This would make the computer think that the locker has been activated
Hope this helps and works. if it frys your computer don't blame me.
The locker works with a simple activation of a 12 constant voltage. You could hook this up to the relay that activates the arb air switch and you should be good to go.
If you want to have the computer work correctly you could try this: The second set of wires to the factory locker is a negative wire that is simply closed by a switch in the locker after it activates. You could replace this locker activated switch with a relay that is activated by the arb switch relay---i.e take the switched positive pole off of the arb relay and wire it to a second relay. When the arb relay activates, the second relay would then activate, closing the switch wires from the factory. This would make the computer think that the locker has been activated
Hope this helps and works. if it frys your computer don't blame me.
04-30-2009, 09:16 PM
#20
I do know that a relay was used and I have a picture of how the wires were spliced, but for all the specifics you will have to ask Mel. 
Here is the pic: