Great thread. So much info. This is getting the wheels spinning on future projects. Again great info and pics.

 

I know this is a few months old but did you have any problems removing the plastic around the seat belts on the b-pillar? Those christmas tree plugs just aren't budging for me and i'm bending the metal tabs they go into. Any pointers?

 

You could try to cut them off with wire cutters. Your most likely going to replace a few anyways.

I used 2 flat head screw drivers to pry the two surfaces apart.I remember at least one area around there where I bent some of the thin metal getting a plug out. It wasn't bent too bad, maybe 20 degrees, and I just bent it back into shape. It's a bit bowed today but isn't noticeable . I have since discovered that there are special tools to remove them. They might help a bit?

http://ruttsautotools.com/wp-content...l-image-01.jpg

I would recommend wearing a pair of mechanics gloves.

 

UPDATE
I'm still super happy that I have my carpet out and bedlined. The tool box liner under my floor mats are still working great. I got caught in a massive downpour yesterday. Besides getting a bit wet it was no big deal. I just spent about 5 minutes with a towel and good as new. I never really worry about it raining or getting dirty, sandy, muddy, or pet hairy. It lets me go out windowless even if it looks like its going to sprinkle which is awesome.

YOU-TUBE VIDEO
I have it uploaded in 720p. The video is a bit blurry, but I added pictures that are sharper where needed.
http://youtu.be/L_qVIc-mhQw CAUSES OF CHIPPING
Some of the issues with chipping were likely caused by me putting the rear seat in wrong and trying to bang the hell out of it to latch. I also used 2 coats of rattle can Rustoleum Self-Etching Primer. That's not a good idea because of the Etcher in it. One thick coat is ideal. I also don't think I sanded it, though I might have. The parts that chipped where parts that got the etching primer.

I need to wipe out the back it is a bit dusty.

 

I just bought my raptor kit today. Hopefully it will be here and I can be prepped and spraying by the end of the week.

I used dry ice to freeze the insulation goo in the front then went between a hammer and crescent wrench to chip it away. That got most of it but there is still some sanding to be done due to the little bit that's left.

 

LOL... No, those wheels on yours are the ugliest thing ever seen on a Jeep!

 

That has to be a troll. There's no way someone with those wheels can insult like that. I think you got the rescue green looking awesome.

 

Ok, so I have everything out of my Jeep. The heat resistant goop came up in big chunks using a heat gun and a scraper. However, there is a tiny bit of rough stuff left behind. Did you leave any of that stuff and just spray over it or did you take it down to smooth metal? If you removed it, how?

Edit: I am in the process of using sandpaper to smooth it over. Still, there are some pits. I just wonder how much tolerance there is? How much will the spray will fill in and make invisible?

 

REMOVING THE LAST OF THE GOOP
I took it 100% out. I sharpened a 1" putty knife which took out almost all of it. The rest I took off with a wire sander attached to a drill. Looks like they are called crimped wire wheels. They cost about $5. I tried a cup style one and it didn't work as good as the style pictured below. You'll want to put ONE solid coat of self etching primer on the shiny metal afterwards. Overlap the paint a bit, but not much. Then sand it lightly so the liner will stick better.


COVERING BUMPS
If you don't think spray paint would hide what's underneath, then there is a good chance you will see it with Raptor also. It might hide something about the thickness of a razor blade if you didn't really eyeball it.

Keep up the good work. Your prep will make the difference between good and great.

 

I just got my trim back on and seats in. It looks great. Thanks for the guide.

As for removing the heat resistant goop, I tried a few different methods. The quickest way seems to be to use a heat gun or torch and scrape it off with a narrow, stiff, sharp scraper. Get the most you can without obsessing. Then, I used one of those hard sponge looking drill disks from Lowes. They are used to remove paint and rust. Find them in the paint isle. That bad boy got it down to bare metal in no time. This was after I spent hours scraping the little bit that was left. I should have saved myself lots of time and just went to the grinder.

Even though the thread told me not to, I turned the sprayer a little bit sideways to get behind the pedals. A little bit ran out and splattered onto the floorboard. I didn't notice it until drying time. Now, there is a splatter in my floor. It's no big deal. For real, don't turn the can sideways.

Nice project. It's cheap. I'm glad I did it. The result is bad ass.