warlord

ok
i finally got a hold of a plasma cutter and now its time to start my bumper project

but i need info first

1. i plan on tucking my whinch inside the bumper and under the radiator, i have a warn m8000 and the realease lever is not in a good position for this. am i able to undo all the screws that hold the endcap the realeas is on and rotate the whole assembly and rebolt it?

2. i dont have the ability to remove my front bumper untill the day comes to put mine on, since this will be a multy day project and this is my dd. is there any way i can get the measurements for the bolts so i can factor them into the plans? or better yet can anyone lend me thier replaced front bumper?

3. to bullnose or to not? this will be a stubby bumper so does a bull nose go well with it or would it look tacky?

4. whats a crush can?

5. and does anyone know wether stubby bumpers are legal or not in delaware. (i tried looking but could not find a definate answer on bumper dimensions, only the requirement to have one and to have it less than 24" from the ground)

6. any other tips you can give me

So_Cal_Tay_12

1.) yes you can, it is called reclocking, I did it on my dad's smittybuilt winch, I see no reason you cant do it to your warn one, they all have similar schematics. Just google "reclocking a warn winch"

2.) Best bet it so take yours off, get a cardboard or wood piece, and make a stencil marking the holes

3.) Whats a bullnose? Post a pic, maybe a visual will help opinions

4.) Crush cans are those two bumps that pop out further than the rest of your stock bumper. If you take off the plastic cover on the stock bumper, youll see that the two pieces behind those bumps look like tin soup cans attatched to the bumper. They are supposed to keep the front of your car safe in a car accident, but if you are building an aftermarket bumper out of 3/16 steel, you will not need to add this kind of setup, because the steel bumper will be plenty of protection by itself.

6.) -Make stencils first, dont just dive right in. I made stencils out of pegboard-type-wood and hot glued them together, worked like a charm.
-Make your winch mount out of 1/4" steel, it will be much stronger and a piece of mind for sure.
-Since its your DD, by making stencils and a mockup first, you can take a whole lot more time and it will probably turn out better and you'll be less stressed, just a thought.

Let me know if you need anything else and be sure to check my bumper build in my signature, should help a bit with explaining the stencil thing

warlord

bullnose, stinger, its that bar that would stick up and farword from the bumper its supposed to help in a forward rollover

thanks for the tips tho

the only thing is removing my current bumper since a winch is on it it will be a bit of a PITA to remove and put back on

maybe ill just drive to quadratec and measure a bumper they have on the shelf.

"reclocking" never would have guess a word like that to search for
i gots some researching to do thx

rubiroo

1. I have a M8000 winch and reclocked it. If I remember correctly you loosen all of the end bolts, pull out the assembly enough to rotate it, reclock it (press towards drum while rotating and it will drop into a preset location), retighten the bolts. It takes about 10 minutes.

2. When I built my bumper I had the stock one off on/off multiple times. To save time I only would install the outer nuts on each side, left the air dam and grill trim piece off. It took about 10 minutes to remove/replace.

Tips---

1. Look at factory and homemade bumpers to determine exactly the look you want. Check out my build for a similar setup. https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...t-Bumper-Build

2. I have the benefit of CAD software so I modeled the front frame, foglights, winch, etc.. This was grest conceptually, but some of the designs looked like crap after taking plasma to material and clamping it too the front of the Jeep. The CAD did help with miscellaneous dimensions that would have been harder to mockup.

3. Use preformed material when possible...I used rectangular steel and removed material as needed. In my area we have recycling yards that you can buy scrap material for $0.25/ lb. They also sell plate with minor surface rust cheaper (~$75 4x8x 3/16" sheet).

4. If you are using the factory foglights cut a bigger hole and weld in 4" pipe, perfect fit.

5. I made my clevis mounts but they can be bought.

6. For me...free handing with the plasma cutter was pretty good, but it is much easier using straight edges or other guides. Saves grinding.

7. Patience

8. Time

warlord

cool

ive come up with some renditions
i dont know how to use inventor or XSI well enough so i just used a game level designer to get a basic idea

and ive come up with 3 prototypes

from top to bottom

the first has a half chamfered edge with shackles mounted on the angle and a notch cut out to mount the fairlead flat, and this will allow me to run the frame rails halfway inside

the middle one has a flat front end with extended teeth on each side to help protect the fairlead, this one allows the frame rails and whinch to sit entirely inside, so this will give me the most approach angle

and the bottom has a full 45 degree face with the same pads and shackles all facing down. this is the least likely one i will vote for. this one also does not allow the rails or whinch to mount inside

So_Cal_Tay_12

OH! haha okay thats what I assumed, yeah I like the look of the stingers, just look around and some f the other subbys with stingers to gert an idea of if you like them or not. Personally, I love them, but for rigs with 37's or bigger MOST of the time, I have a few exceptions.

And yeah, the lingo they have for some of their modifications is funny, "reclocking" is a bit odd, why not "rotating" or "turning" or "relocating the switch", who knows

JKGray10

My Dad and I just got done building my front bumper. I live in Newark, Delaware so you can use my stock bumper if you want and take a look at what I did on mine. The bolt holes aren't squared. The top 2 bolts are angled out from the bottom bolts. It was a pain in the butt for me to get it lined up perfectly.

warlord

Well i have a bumper now to start my prototyping with. Ill post the happenings as they happen