TeraFlex 60 vs. Currie Rock Jock 60 vs. Dynatrac
07-20-2009, 01:33 PM
#71
JK Junkie
This thread has been a huge learning experience for me. 
However, I have a few more quick questions (hopefully others are asking themselves these same questions as well):
1. Can anyone explain the advantages / disadvantages of manual locking hubs vs. drive flanges?
2. Can anyone explain the advantages / disadvantages of king pan vs. ball joints?
What other options are available and what do you suggest? I know there are probably too many to list, but what upgrades are most common?
Thanks.
However, I have a few more quick questions (hopefully others are asking themselves these same questions as well):1. Can anyone explain the advantages / disadvantages of manual locking hubs vs. drive flanges?
2. Can anyone explain the advantages / disadvantages of king pan vs. ball joints?
What other options are available and what do you suggest? I know there are probably too many to list, but what upgrades are most common?
Thanks.
Manual locking hubs are the best option for a daily driver. They allow you to disconnect the wheels from the axle shafts. So when you are in 2wd, and they are unlocked, the front axle assembly is not spinning. So you have less parasitic loss, and less wear and tear on the front axle.
Also, if you have a locker or spool up front, you can unlock one wheel to allow for easier turning.
Personally, I GREATLY prefer manual locking hubs.
2: As for ball joint vs king pins, king pins are stronger in most all cases. All medium and heavy duty trucks use them. Light duty truck used to use them, but ball joints are cheaper, so most all pickup trucks from the 80's and up use ball joints.
As for the physical differences, a king pin has a pin with a set of bearings. These hold MUCH heavier loads than a ball joint. A ball joint is basically a ball and socket joint. Every time these move, they cause a little wear, as there is no bearings to allow for the assembly to roll like a king pin.
If you have a choice, go with king pins. They should last much longer.
07-21-2009, 12:35 PM
#73
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07-22-2009, 02:39 PM
#74
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Can anyone give me an All-In cost of these 4 options for a complete replacement solution for both Front & Rear? (the complete axle assembly kit to replace the entire stock D44 Rubicon axle; brakes and all). I want to run ARBs front and rear with 5.38 gears.
I'm having a hard time following all the add-ons for each option and simply want to know the total for each option.
I've read that the ProRock is the most expensive, but even Google can't find a price for both front & rear. I see the trail series, but not ProRock...
Currie RJ 60 Front Complete Axle Assembly =4,999.95 + 1,600.00 = 6,599.95
Currie RJ 60 Rear Complete Axle Assembly = 1,899.95 + 1,600.00 = 3,499.95
TF Front 60 Complete Axle Assembly = $
TF Rear 60 Complete Axle Assembly = $2,995
Dynatrac Front ProRock 60 Complete Axle Assembly = $
Dynatrac Rear ProRock 60 Complete Axle Assembly = $
I did find pricing for the Dynatrac Rear Trail Series 60 = $3,695.99. But it obviously doesn't have the ground clearance of the ProRock...
SOLID Front 60 Complete Axle Assembly = $6,695
SOLID Rear 60 Complete Axle Assembly = $6,445
Thanks.
I'm having a hard time following all the add-ons for each option and simply want to know the total for each option.
I've read that the ProRock is the most expensive, but even Google can't find a price for both front & rear. I see the trail series, but not ProRock...Currie RJ 60 Front Complete Axle Assembly =4,999.95 + 1,600.00 = 6,599.95
Currie RJ 60 Rear Complete Axle Assembly = 1,899.95 + 1,600.00 = 3,499.95
TF Front 60 Complete Axle Assembly = $
TF Rear 60 Complete Axle Assembly = $2,995
Dynatrac Front ProRock 60 Complete Axle Assembly = $
Dynatrac Rear ProRock 60 Complete Axle Assembly = $
I did find pricing for the Dynatrac Rear Trail Series 60 = $3,695.99. But it obviously doesn't have the ground clearance of the ProRock...
SOLID Front 60 Complete Axle Assembly = $6,695
SOLID Rear 60 Complete Axle Assembly = $6,445
Thanks.
Anyone hava a price on a front dynatrac 60 w/ARB Locker?!
07-23-2009, 07:05 AM
#78
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The SKINNY on front JK axles
I am with you guys. The front end wheeling 37+ tires hard is really a dilemma; I am tired of breaking stuff and paying to have it fixed.
I have spent $2K building up my D30 and have broken it 4 times in the last year to an additional bill of $2500. I could MAYBE sell the internals for $1200 to recoup some of it. I am not sure if my insurance company would be too crazy about insuring breakage of a built axle while wheeling... interesting though!
I have done a ton of research and am about ready to place an order so I thought I would share my finds. Ideally I would order a front and rear axle at the same time but as most of us would agree... we have already spent way to much on our projects, the economy SUCKS, and we want a good solution for a reasonable amount of $$$. So it makes sense in my case to just order the front for now and add spacer adapters to the rear if needed. (the 60's are not the same bolt pattern and you will need to get new wheels) If you go 44's you can get them with the same bolt pattern. FYI Warn locking hubs for a true 1 ton 60 measure 4.25" which doesn't work on the current JK bolt pattern)
In 6 months I will probably buy a matching rear. You can get into a rear D60 for much cheaper if you are looking to save $$$. (Like a Dynatrac Trail series 60 ~ they don't make trail series up front though) But for now I am going to just get a front axle upgrade.
Front axles are expensive. In general a front D60 is $7500 and a rear built D60 is $4500. (can of course be cheaper and more) Alot of people opt for a 60 in the rear and 44 up front. I would tend to go the other way. 60 front 44 rear because it seems like the front gets alot more of a beating in my case and I have a suspension that can handle the 60 up front.
Most of these companies would be happy to work out a bit of a discount (maybe $500) if you buy them both at the same time.
I wheel super hard, but slow and in control... I am a tecnical crawler.
Those who drive on the road alot worry about the weight of a D60 for freeway driving. I don't lose any sleep about it and drive on the freeway every day. I had Dynatrac 60's under my TJ and it drove GREAT on road with no oiling issues and these were 8 year old axles, Dynatrac technology has only improved if anything!)
The Currie design is arguably better for heavy highway use because of the oiling system... but I think all of them are fine. The Currie assembly is lighter by maybe 20lbs, whether that is good or bad is up to you to decide.
Lastly... ENGINE. It may have occurred to you that our minivan motor 3.8 V6 may not drive those D60's too well! A supercharger is $5000 and a Hemi replacement is ALOT more. So before you jump think!
Hear is a breakdown of FRONT JK AXLES OPTIONS
These are just ballpark prices. You should call manufactuerers for your specific setups. Currie, Dynatrac, and Teraflex are all INCREDIBLE companies and I firmly believe these are all great options. Any would work for me and I think I would be very happy with them regardless. Prices vary alot
A RUBI 44 totally built up (AXLES, BRACKETS, TRUSS, GUSSETS, AND GEARS) will run $4000 (maybe less used or if you have one to start with) If you bought the lifetime warranty you can probably add gears and gussets and still claim warranty. I would reinforce the mounting brackets as well! And good luck with claiming warranty work!
A complete Dynatrac PRO ROCK 44 w/ARB is in the $6K range
An empty pro rock 44 to fill with your current RUBI stuff is only $2K
A complete Dynatrac PRO 60 w/ARB is $7K
A complete built Dynatrac with options could run 10K easily
A Currie D60 w/44 outers and knuckles w/ARB is about 6K
A Currie basic D60 w/ARB is $7500
A premium Currie D60 is $9500
Currie 609 w/arb $8000 (not sure why you would want this other than it is rare and different!) ~ some people say sexy!
The Teraflex front CRD 60 is not out yet and they are being pretty secretive about the price etc.. but I am expecting it to be similar to the Currie 60/44 and at a similar price. BUT THAT IS JUST MY THEORY!!!!
Diamond Axles, Mad 4x4, Spidertrax, Solid, and Sunray Engineering all make custom axles and in my experience are relatively similar to the Currie and Dynatrac stuff. Mopar makes a J8 rear dana 60 but this discussion is about front axles. They make front 44's for rubicons obviously but are often ridiculed for being weak and using parts that are only D30 strength. (this isn't the place to discuss the problems with the stock D44 though, there are plenty of other posts here that discuss that!)
Hope that helps, after all that...
The most economical way to go would be to buy the Dynatrac Pro 44 housing (I bet Currie has a similar option) and put used rubi parts in it. If you don't have them they can be found dirt cheap on the used forum. I priced one today (these costs change by availability every day) but today this would be the cost:
$950 totally stock used front rubi axle
$2000 Dynatrac housing
$3000 Total cost of parts
$1500 Shipping, gears and installation
$4500 TOTAL
Sell my parts for $1000 and I have $3500 into a very usable front axle for 37's and careful driving. As I break the parts, I will upgrade them.
OR JUST POP FOR THE D60 axle and be relatively done with it for the next 8 years as withh my previous TJ!!!
TOUGH CHOICE!
I have spent $2K building up my D30 and have broken it 4 times in the last year to an additional bill of $2500. I could MAYBE sell the internals for $1200 to recoup some of it. I am not sure if my insurance company would be too crazy about insuring breakage of a built axle while wheeling... interesting though!
I have done a ton of research and am about ready to place an order so I thought I would share my finds. Ideally I would order a front and rear axle at the same time but as most of us would agree... we have already spent way to much on our projects, the economy SUCKS, and we want a good solution for a reasonable amount of $$$. So it makes sense in my case to just order the front for now and add spacer adapters to the rear if needed. (the 60's are not the same bolt pattern and you will need to get new wheels) If you go 44's you can get them with the same bolt pattern. FYI Warn locking hubs for a true 1 ton 60 measure 4.25" which doesn't work on the current JK bolt pattern)
In 6 months I will probably buy a matching rear. You can get into a rear D60 for much cheaper if you are looking to save $$$. (Like a Dynatrac Trail series 60 ~ they don't make trail series up front though) But for now I am going to just get a front axle upgrade.
Front axles are expensive. In general a front D60 is $7500 and a rear built D60 is $4500. (can of course be cheaper and more) Alot of people opt for a 60 in the rear and 44 up front. I would tend to go the other way. 60 front 44 rear because it seems like the front gets alot more of a beating in my case and I have a suspension that can handle the 60 up front.
Most of these companies would be happy to work out a bit of a discount (maybe $500) if you buy them both at the same time.
I wheel super hard, but slow and in control... I am a tecnical crawler.
Those who drive on the road alot worry about the weight of a D60 for freeway driving. I don't lose any sleep about it and drive on the freeway every day. I had Dynatrac 60's under my TJ and it drove GREAT on road with no oiling issues and these were 8 year old axles, Dynatrac technology has only improved if anything!)
The Currie design is arguably better for heavy highway use because of the oiling system... but I think all of them are fine. The Currie assembly is lighter by maybe 20lbs, whether that is good or bad is up to you to decide.
Lastly... ENGINE. It may have occurred to you that our minivan motor 3.8 V6 may not drive those D60's too well! A supercharger is $5000 and a Hemi replacement is ALOT more. So before you jump think!
Hear is a breakdown of FRONT JK AXLES OPTIONS
These are just ballpark prices. You should call manufactuerers for your specific setups. Currie, Dynatrac, and Teraflex are all INCREDIBLE companies and I firmly believe these are all great options. Any would work for me and I think I would be very happy with them regardless. Prices vary alot
A RUBI 44 totally built up (AXLES, BRACKETS, TRUSS, GUSSETS, AND GEARS) will run $4000 (maybe less used or if you have one to start with) If you bought the lifetime warranty you can probably add gears and gussets and still claim warranty. I would reinforce the mounting brackets as well! And good luck with claiming warranty work!
A complete Dynatrac PRO ROCK 44 w/ARB is in the $6K range
An empty pro rock 44 to fill with your current RUBI stuff is only $2K
A complete Dynatrac PRO 60 w/ARB is $7K
A complete built Dynatrac with options could run 10K easily
A Currie D60 w/44 outers and knuckles w/ARB is about 6K
A Currie basic D60 w/ARB is $7500
A premium Currie D60 is $9500
Currie 609 w/arb $8000 (not sure why you would want this other than it is rare and different!) ~ some people say sexy!
The Teraflex front CRD 60 is not out yet and they are being pretty secretive about the price etc.. but I am expecting it to be similar to the Currie 60/44 and at a similar price. BUT THAT IS JUST MY THEORY!!!!
Diamond Axles, Mad 4x4, Spidertrax, Solid, and Sunray Engineering all make custom axles and in my experience are relatively similar to the Currie and Dynatrac stuff. Mopar makes a J8 rear dana 60 but this discussion is about front axles. They make front 44's for rubicons obviously but are often ridiculed for being weak and using parts that are only D30 strength. (this isn't the place to discuss the problems with the stock D44 though, there are plenty of other posts here that discuss that!)
Hope that helps, after all that...
The most economical way to go would be to buy the Dynatrac Pro 44 housing (I bet Currie has a similar option) and put used rubi parts in it. If you don't have them they can be found dirt cheap on the used forum. I priced one today (these costs change by availability every day) but today this would be the cost:
$950 totally stock used front rubi axle
$2000 Dynatrac housing
$3000 Total cost of parts
$1500 Shipping, gears and installation
$4500 TOTAL
Sell my parts for $1000 and I have $3500 into a very usable front axle for 37's and careful driving. As I break the parts, I will upgrade them.
OR JUST POP FOR THE D60 axle and be relatively done with it for the next 8 years as withh my previous TJ!!!
TOUGH CHOICE!
07-23-2009, 03:56 PM
#79
JK Freak
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I am with you guys. The front end wheeling 37+ tires hard is really a dilemma; I am tired of breaking stuff and paying to have it fixed.
I have spent $2K building up my D30 and have broken it 4 times in the last year to an additional bill of $2500. I could MAYBE sell the internals for $1200 to recoup some of it. I am not sure if my insurance company would be too crazy about insuring breakage of a built axle while wheeling... interesting though!
I have done a ton of research and am about ready to place an order so I thought I would share my finds. Ideally I would order a front and rear axle at the same time but as most of us would agree... we have already spent way to much on our projects, the economy SUCKS, and we want a good solution for a reasonable amount of $$$. So it makes sense in my case to just order the front for now and add spacer adapters to the rear if needed. (the 60's are not the same bolt pattern and you will need to get new wheels) If you go 44's you can get them with the same bolt pattern. FYI Warn locking hubs for a true 1 ton 60 measure 4.25" which doesn't work on the current JK bolt pattern)
In 6 months I will probably buy a matching rear. You can get into a rear D60 for much cheaper if you are looking to save $$$. (Like a Dynatrac Trail series 60 ~ they don't make trail series up front though) But for now I am going to just get a front axle upgrade.
Front axles are expensive. In general a front D60 is $7500 and a rear built D60 is $4500. (can of course be cheaper and more) Alot of people opt for a 60 in the rear and 44 up front. I would tend to go the other way. 60 front 44 rear because it seems like the front gets alot more of a beating in my case and I have a suspension that can handle the 60 up front.
Most of these companies would be happy to work out a bit of a discount (maybe $500) if you buy them both at the same time.
I wheel super hard, but slow and in control... I am a tecnical crawler.
Those who drive on the road alot worry about the weight of a D60 for freeway driving. I don't lose any sleep about it and drive on the freeway every day. I had Dynatrac 60's under my TJ and it drove GREAT on road with no oiling issues and these were 8 year old axles, Dynatrac technology has only improved if anything!)
The Currie design is arguably better for heavy highway use because of the oiling system... but I think all of them are fine. The Currie assembly is lighter by maybe 20lbs, whether that is good or bad is up to you to decide.
Lastly... ENGINE. It may have occurred to you that our minivan motor 3.8 V6 may not drive those D60's too well! A supercharger is $5000 and a Hemi replacement is ALOT more. So before you jump think!
Hear is a breakdown of FRONT JK AXLES OPTIONS
These are just ballpark prices. You should call manufactuerers for your specific setups. Currie, Dynatrac, and Teraflex are all INCREDIBLE companies and I firmly believe these are all great options. Any would work for me and I think I would be very happy with them regardless. Prices vary alot
A RUBI 44 totally built up (AXLES, BRACKETS, TRUSS, GUSSETS, AND GEARS) will run $4000 (maybe less used or if you have one to start with) If you bought the lifetime warranty you can probably add gears and gussets and still claim warranty. I would reinforce the mounting brackets as well! And good luck with claiming warranty work!
A complete Dynatrac PRO ROCK 44 w/ARB is in the $6K range
An empty pro rock 44 to fill with your current RUBI stuff is only $2K
A complete Dynatrac PRO 60 w/ARB is $7K
A complete built Dynatrac with options could run 10K easily
A Currie D60 w/44 outers and knuckles w/ARB is about 6K
A Currie basic D60 w/ARB is $7500
A premium Currie D60 is $9500
Currie 609 w/arb $8000 (not sure why you would want this other than it is rare and different!) ~ some people say sexy!
The Teraflex front CRD 60 is not out yet and they are being pretty secretive about the price etc.. but I am expecting it to be similar to the Currie 60/44 and at a similar price. BUT THAT IS JUST MY THEORY!!!!
Diamond Axles, Mad 4x4, Spidertrax, Solid, and Sunray Engineering all make custom axles and in my experience are relatively similar to the Currie and Dynatrac stuff. Mopar makes a J8 rear dana 60 but this discussion is about front axles. They make front 44's for rubicons obviously but are often ridiculed for being weak and using parts that are only D30 strength. (this isn't the place to discuss the problems with the stock D44 though, there are plenty of other posts here that discuss that!)
Hope that helps, after all that...
The most economical way to go would be to buy the Dynatrac Pro 44 housing (I bet Currie has a similar option) and put used rubi parts in it. If you don't have them they can be found dirt cheap on the used forum. I priced one today (these costs change by availability every day) but today this would be the cost:
$950 totally stock used front rubi axle
$2000 Dynatrac housing
$3000 Total cost of parts
$1500 Shipping, gears and installation
$4500 TOTAL
Sell my parts for $1000 and I have $3500 into a very usable front axle for 37's and careful driving. As I break the parts, I will upgrade them.
OR JUST POP FOR THE D60 axle and be relatively done with it for the next 8 years as withh my previous TJ!!!
TOUGH CHOICE!
I have spent $2K building up my D30 and have broken it 4 times in the last year to an additional bill of $2500. I could MAYBE sell the internals for $1200 to recoup some of it. I am not sure if my insurance company would be too crazy about insuring breakage of a built axle while wheeling... interesting though!
I have done a ton of research and am about ready to place an order so I thought I would share my finds. Ideally I would order a front and rear axle at the same time but as most of us would agree... we have already spent way to much on our projects, the economy SUCKS, and we want a good solution for a reasonable amount of $$$. So it makes sense in my case to just order the front for now and add spacer adapters to the rear if needed. (the 60's are not the same bolt pattern and you will need to get new wheels) If you go 44's you can get them with the same bolt pattern. FYI Warn locking hubs for a true 1 ton 60 measure 4.25" which doesn't work on the current JK bolt pattern)
In 6 months I will probably buy a matching rear. You can get into a rear D60 for much cheaper if you are looking to save $$$. (Like a Dynatrac Trail series 60 ~ they don't make trail series up front though) But for now I am going to just get a front axle upgrade.
Front axles are expensive. In general a front D60 is $7500 and a rear built D60 is $4500. (can of course be cheaper and more) Alot of people opt for a 60 in the rear and 44 up front. I would tend to go the other way. 60 front 44 rear because it seems like the front gets alot more of a beating in my case and I have a suspension that can handle the 60 up front.
Most of these companies would be happy to work out a bit of a discount (maybe $500) if you buy them both at the same time.
I wheel super hard, but slow and in control... I am a tecnical crawler.
Those who drive on the road alot worry about the weight of a D60 for freeway driving. I don't lose any sleep about it and drive on the freeway every day. I had Dynatrac 60's under my TJ and it drove GREAT on road with no oiling issues and these were 8 year old axles, Dynatrac technology has only improved if anything!)
The Currie design is arguably better for heavy highway use because of the oiling system... but I think all of them are fine. The Currie assembly is lighter by maybe 20lbs, whether that is good or bad is up to you to decide.
Lastly... ENGINE. It may have occurred to you that our minivan motor 3.8 V6 may not drive those D60's too well! A supercharger is $5000 and a Hemi replacement is ALOT more. So before you jump think!
Hear is a breakdown of FRONT JK AXLES OPTIONS
These are just ballpark prices. You should call manufactuerers for your specific setups. Currie, Dynatrac, and Teraflex are all INCREDIBLE companies and I firmly believe these are all great options. Any would work for me and I think I would be very happy with them regardless. Prices vary alot
A RUBI 44 totally built up (AXLES, BRACKETS, TRUSS, GUSSETS, AND GEARS) will run $4000 (maybe less used or if you have one to start with) If you bought the lifetime warranty you can probably add gears and gussets and still claim warranty. I would reinforce the mounting brackets as well! And good luck with claiming warranty work!
A complete Dynatrac PRO ROCK 44 w/ARB is in the $6K range
An empty pro rock 44 to fill with your current RUBI stuff is only $2K
A complete Dynatrac PRO 60 w/ARB is $7K
A complete built Dynatrac with options could run 10K easily
A Currie D60 w/44 outers and knuckles w/ARB is about 6K
A Currie basic D60 w/ARB is $7500
A premium Currie D60 is $9500
Currie 609 w/arb $8000 (not sure why you would want this other than it is rare and different!) ~ some people say sexy!
The Teraflex front CRD 60 is not out yet and they are being pretty secretive about the price etc.. but I am expecting it to be similar to the Currie 60/44 and at a similar price. BUT THAT IS JUST MY THEORY!!!!
Diamond Axles, Mad 4x4, Spidertrax, Solid, and Sunray Engineering all make custom axles and in my experience are relatively similar to the Currie and Dynatrac stuff. Mopar makes a J8 rear dana 60 but this discussion is about front axles. They make front 44's for rubicons obviously but are often ridiculed for being weak and using parts that are only D30 strength. (this isn't the place to discuss the problems with the stock D44 though, there are plenty of other posts here that discuss that!)
Hope that helps, after all that...
The most economical way to go would be to buy the Dynatrac Pro 44 housing (I bet Currie has a similar option) and put used rubi parts in it. If you don't have them they can be found dirt cheap on the used forum. I priced one today (these costs change by availability every day) but today this would be the cost:
$950 totally stock used front rubi axle
$2000 Dynatrac housing
$3000 Total cost of parts
$1500 Shipping, gears and installation
$4500 TOTAL
Sell my parts for $1000 and I have $3500 into a very usable front axle for 37's and careful driving. As I break the parts, I will upgrade them.
OR JUST POP FOR THE D60 axle and be relatively done with it for the next 8 years as withh my previous TJ!!!
TOUGH CHOICE!
Very good and thorough writup. I can't tell you what to do, but I can tell you what I have done on my TJ and what I wish I had done on the TJ. I can also tell you what I will do to my rubicon JK!
I have TJ rubicon axles and after putting in chromo shafts front and rear, re-gearing, and ARB lockers front and rear I was set back ~$4500 including install labor of gears and lockers. If I had spent just a little more I could have had built D60's and never worried about a thing!!
Now, as for the JK I have D44's now and plan to lift and install 35's or maybe 37's and at the same time put in a rear D60 (likely teraflex) with 5.13 gears. I will re-gear the front D44 and and drive it until it breaks (hopefully some time) and at that point I will drop in a D60 up front and step up to 40" tires
.This is my plan and may not fit your ideas, but i can tell you that I will NEVER skimp on parts as its better to spend a little extra in the garage than spend hours on the trail and then have to upgrade or replace anyway....
I realize that the D60's are pricey but I will go this route even though I have the Rubicon and 44's. These are fine for 35's but for 37's I really think you are on borrowed time that way.
07-23-2009, 05:22 PM
#80
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My thoughts exactly marine... as I said I had Dynatracs on my Tj and changed one u joint in 8 years... I have had a Jk with built stock axles for a year and you don't want to know what I have already spent on these!!!