LedZepp877

great thread, i'm drooling for a d60

Charles7903

Can anyone give me an All-In cost of these 4 options for a complete replacement solution for both Front & Rear? (the complete axle assembly kit to replace the entire stock D44 Rubicon axle; brakes and all). I want to run ARBs front and rear with 5.38 gears.

I'm having a hard time following all the add-ons for each option and simply want to know the total for each option. I've read that the ProRock is the most expensive, but even Google can't find a price for both front & rear. I see the trail series, but not ProRock...


Currie RJ 60 Front Complete Axle Assembly =4,999.95 + 1,600.00 = 6,599.95
Currie RJ 60 Rear Complete Axle Assembly = 1,899.95 + 1,600.00 = 3,499.95



TF Front 60 Complete Axle Assembly = $
TF Rear 60 Complete Axle Assembly = $2,995



Dynatrac Front ProRock 60 Complete Axle Assembly = $
Dynatrac Rear ProRock 60 Complete Axle Assembly = $



I did find pricing for the Dynatrac Rear Trail Series 60 = $3,695.99. But it obviously doesn't have the ground clearance of the ProRock...



SOLID Front 60 Complete Axle Assembly = $6,695
SOLID Rear 60 Complete Axle Assembly = $6,445



Thanks.

KenB1010

Hi David,

Can Currie build these with the tubes rotated in the carrier so that the spring perches are vertical when the diff is adjusted for pinion angle? If so what information do you need to do this?

David @ Currie Ent.

Front RJ60 4,999.95 + 1,600.00 = 6,599.95

Rear RJ60 1,899.95 + 1,600.00 = 3,499.95

When installing a rear RJ60 the pinion does not need to be rotated as much to get the correct driveline angle because it is a high pinion, so your spring pads will be pretty close to stock.

Charles7903

Thanks David. Do these prices include brakes in addition to gears and lockers? Or assume the use of the stock brakes?

David @ Currie Ent.

You re-use your front calipers and complete rear brakes.

Charles7903

This thread has been a huge learning experience for me. However, I have a few more quick questions (hopefully others are asking themselves these same questions as well):

1. Can anyone explain the advantages / disadvantages of manual locking hubs vs. drive flanges?

2. Can anyone explain the advantages / disadvantages of king pan vs. ball joints?

What other options are available and what do you suggest? I know there are probably too many to list, but what upgrades are most common?

Thanks.

dyolfknip

Great questions...someone chime in and educate us please?

sport-atv

My Currie Rock Jocks will be in this week!

therza

2. Can anyone explain the advantages / disadvantages of king pan vs. ball joints?

I am not an expert, but from days of driving and working on medium duty dump trucks, king pins (not pans) are a means of connecting the outer knuckle to the axle assembly. They are essentially a very large pin, that goes vertically thru the knuckle assembly and allows for the rotation of the outer knuckle when the wheel turns. The king pin is about 8 to 12 inches long (depending on the application) and about an inch or more in diameter. This mass gives it extreme strength. Ball joints on the other hand are much smaller and there is an upper ball joint and a lower ball joint, essentially a rounded metal "ball" that fits into a "socket" allowing the rotation. King pins are much stronger but they also make turning more of an effort. And they do wear out and are hard to replace. I can remember putting a king pin into a freezer and heating the knuckle with a torch to drive the new king pin into place. Not fun. But they probably have a better method today. Hope that helps a little. My concern with king pins would be the loss of steering feel and handling. It is very heavy duty and drives like it.