Cali Cosmos

Looks great! A lot cleaner. What did you use to paint?

StrizzyChris

I used rustoleum matte black rattle can. It went on pretty well, and is pretty forgiving paint. I did some thick(probably too thick IMHO) but didn't have any problems with running etc. I will say that one of my taped edges wasn't completely sealed where the body contour is at the pinch seam. Im kind of ticked at myself for missing that and having a slight underspray that made it past that and not a perfect line.

Cali Cosmos

Yea I've used that on a few things before. I always have a can or two of it laying around for whatever I may need it for. I'll be doing the fender soon so this seems to be a must afterwards, it really cleans up the look.

StrizzyChris

So here is a pic of my Sterling Tow Master Tow Bar base plate/mount on my EVO 1/4 Pounder front bumper. No signs of any stress from the move/tow. Im very happy with how stout this bumper is!


This is after moving my JK from Orange Co to San Fran in my most recent move.

StrizzyChris

Installed the 2013 compatible Procal. Honestly couldn't tell a difference in shift points or "feel" while driving but did it ever help my MPG!!! Finally disabling the TPMS was nice as well!



Also Picked up a 20" spot/flood combo LED light bar as well as two 2x2 pillar mount spots. Just need to figure out my mounting solution for them.

StrizzyChris

So trying to get a feel for the size and mounting of the 20" LEDs. I may look for a piece of thick steel bent a few times to bolt to the bumper if there isnt a reasonably priced bracket available.





Also installed a 1.75" front spacer to help compensate for the factory rake, bumper/stinger and winch weight as well as the extra rise from running no spare or rear carrier right now. It was dark when I finished the install so no pics until the morning but It looks like I still have a slight rake. I have a 3/4" rear spacer that I thought I would use in combo, but may not even need it.

olyelr

Looking good!

So, the procal actualy made you get a little better mileage? Tell me its true.

Also, the e-sway bar spin, is it actually secured in the new location or is the bolt just stuffed into the new hole you drilled out? Here is the pic I am questioning...

red2010rubi

Great build so far

StrizzyChris

No not at all! When I changed tires my mpg when to complete crap. I mean BAD!!! When I used the procal it helped me regain some of that mpg but it is still not near what it was from factory. I think it all has to do with shift points back to factory spec which improves mpg. I never expect to see those numbers again with the weight I added and the complete loss of aerodynamics that happens with aftermarket bumpers, removing the rake from stock suspension, and creating a kite with flat fenders lol

So I am terrible at descriptions so I used my crappy paint skills to help me. If you see in the pic below the #1 tab on of the swaybar housing is thin. Its sole purpose is to attach as the anchor point of the housing to the frame. The #2 spot is a hole that has a bolt in it from the factory and actually holds the housing together. The reason you will need to drill this hole is because #1 hole bolt that you will now be inserting into the #2 hole has a short threaded section and the body of the bolt(In the circle) is larger and will stop you from threading the bolt completely. By drilling the #2 hole this will allow you to thread the bolt in far enough to slip the unthreaded section in far enough to also secure the 2 parts of the housing together. (I hope this all makes sense)

StrizzyChris

So here she is, in daylight, after installing Front 1.75" spacers only.



There's still a slight rake, but I think mounting the rear carrier and spare will level it. If it then sags too much under that weight, I will then install the rear 3/4" spacers to then raise it to be more level.