Rear Bucket Seats Install
#31
JK Freak
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Keene, New Hampshire, United States
Posts: 882
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are there other options for rear seat mount?
I'm planning on putting some 2dr JK seats into the rear so levers on the inside and how do you adjust the seat belts? any close ups of the seat belt female ends mounted to the floor?
I'm planning on putting some 2dr JK seats into the rear so levers on the inside and how do you adjust the seat belts? any close ups of the seat belt female ends mounted to the floor?
#34
Just did this!
So I know this post is 7 years old, but OP if you are still out there I just did this!
I have a 2012 JKU and picked up two 2011 matching JKU seats from the junkyard. I used the MasterCraft brackets you mentioned (quadratech still sells them) which bolted to the floor perfectly.
I removed the factory legs from each seat but kept the slider on (without the slider the seats don't have bolt holes far enough forward). Leaving the sliders on not only makes them easier to install but also gives them a nice factory look and maximizes cargo space when slid all the way forward (since we are loosing the ability to fold them flat). The sliders do make the seats sit higher in the back (see pictures) but I felt flexibility was more important than looking identical.
The sliders have 6 welded bolts, and with the MasterCraft brackets I had to drill two additional holes per seat, and was only able to use 4 bolts from each seat. But I added a new bolt through a factory hole in the sliders giving me 5 total connection points per seat. I did end up swapping sliders too because they don't sit flat/flush after having to swap sides as the OP said due to the tilt handles hitting the wheel wells.
Then I pulled the seatbelts from the factory bench (since the junkyard 2011 buckles wouldn't latch) and I used the open hole to put the buckles in the middle (nice that Jeep put buckle holes on both sides!) I removed the seat belt buckle straps because they were too long. Then I connected the buckle directly to the hole bracket with three tiny 450lbs d-brackets (so that's almost 1,500lbs of safety per buckle).
Last but not least I am now taking the 2-seat portion of the bench I just removed (because the subwoofer prevents the whole bench from fitting) and installing that as a removable 3rd row against the rear gate! But that is for another post........
For now I just want to say thanks again OP! I wouldn't have tried this had it not been for you proving it could be done!
I have a 2012 JKU and picked up two 2011 matching JKU seats from the junkyard. I used the MasterCraft brackets you mentioned (quadratech still sells them) which bolted to the floor perfectly.
I removed the factory legs from each seat but kept the slider on (without the slider the seats don't have bolt holes far enough forward). Leaving the sliders on not only makes them easier to install but also gives them a nice factory look and maximizes cargo space when slid all the way forward (since we are loosing the ability to fold them flat). The sliders do make the seats sit higher in the back (see pictures) but I felt flexibility was more important than looking identical.
The sliders have 6 welded bolts, and with the MasterCraft brackets I had to drill two additional holes per seat, and was only able to use 4 bolts from each seat. But I added a new bolt through a factory hole in the sliders giving me 5 total connection points per seat. I did end up swapping sliders too because they don't sit flat/flush after having to swap sides as the OP said due to the tilt handles hitting the wheel wells.
Then I pulled the seatbelts from the factory bench (since the junkyard 2011 buckles wouldn't latch) and I used the open hole to put the buckles in the middle (nice that Jeep put buckle holes on both sides!) I removed the seat belt buckle straps because they were too long. Then I connected the buckle directly to the hole bracket with three tiny 450lbs d-brackets (so that's almost 1,500lbs of safety per buckle).
Last but not least I am now taking the 2-seat portion of the bench I just removed (because the subwoofer prevents the whole bench from fitting) and installing that as a removable 3rd row against the rear gate! But that is for another post........
For now I just want to say thanks again OP! I wouldn't have tried this had it not been for you proving it could be done!
Last edited by Sparticus1; 07-12-2020 at 11:51 AM.
#35
JK Super Freak
So I know this post is 7 years old, but OP if you are still out there I just did this!
I have a 2012 JKU and picked up two 2011 matching JKU seats from the junkyard. I used the MasterCraft brackets you mentioned (quadratech still sells them) which bolted to the floor perfectly.
I removed the factory legs from each seat but kept the slider on (without the slider the seats don't have bolt holes far enough forward). Leaving the sliders on not only makes them easier to install but also gives them a nice factory look and maximizes cargo space when slid all the way forward (since we are loosing the ability to fold them flat).
The sliders have 6 welded bolts, and with the MasterCraft brackets I had to drill two additional holes per seat, and was only able to use 4 bolts from each seat. But I added a new bolt through a factory hole in the sliders giving me 5 total connection points per seat. I did end up swapping sliders too because they don't sit flat/flush after having to swap sides as the OP said due to the tilt handles hitting the wheel wells.
Then I pulled the seatbelts from the factory bench (since the junkyard 2011 buckles wouldn't latch) and I used the open hole to put the buckles in the middle (nice that Jeep put buckle holes on both sides!) I removed the seat belt buckle straps because they were too long. Then I connected the buckle directly to the hole bracket with three tiny 450lbs d-brackets (so that's almost 1,500lbs of safety per buckle).
Last but not least I am now taking the 2-seat portion of the bench I just removed (because the subwoofer prevents the whole bench from fitting) and installing that as a removable 3rd row against the rear gate! But that is for another post........
For now I just want to say thanks again OP! I wouldn't have tried this had it not been for you proving it could be done!
I have a 2012 JKU and picked up two 2011 matching JKU seats from the junkyard. I used the MasterCraft brackets you mentioned (quadratech still sells them) which bolted to the floor perfectly.
I removed the factory legs from each seat but kept the slider on (without the slider the seats don't have bolt holes far enough forward). Leaving the sliders on not only makes them easier to install but also gives them a nice factory look and maximizes cargo space when slid all the way forward (since we are loosing the ability to fold them flat).
The sliders have 6 welded bolts, and with the MasterCraft brackets I had to drill two additional holes per seat, and was only able to use 4 bolts from each seat. But I added a new bolt through a factory hole in the sliders giving me 5 total connection points per seat. I did end up swapping sliders too because they don't sit flat/flush after having to swap sides as the OP said due to the tilt handles hitting the wheel wells.
Then I pulled the seatbelts from the factory bench (since the junkyard 2011 buckles wouldn't latch) and I used the open hole to put the buckles in the middle (nice that Jeep put buckle holes on both sides!) I removed the seat belt buckle straps because they were too long. Then I connected the buckle directly to the hole bracket with three tiny 450lbs d-brackets (so that's almost 1,500lbs of safety per buckle).
Last but not least I am now taking the 2-seat portion of the bench I just removed (because the subwoofer prevents the whole bench from fitting) and installing that as a removable 3rd row against the rear gate! But that is for another post........
For now I just want to say thanks again OP! I wouldn't have tried this had it not been for you proving it could be done!
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Rule18 (07-12-2020)
#38
JK Enthusiast
So I know this post is 7 years old, but OP if you are still out there I just did this!
I have a 2012 JKU and picked up two 2011 matching JKU seats from the junkyard. I used the MasterCraft brackets you mentioned (quadratech still sells them) which bolted to the floor perfectly.
I removed the factory legs from each seat but kept the slider on (without the slider the seats don't have bolt holes far enough forward). Leaving the sliders on not only makes them easier to install but also gives them a nice factory look and maximizes cargo space when slid all the way forward (since we are loosing the ability to fold them flat). The sliders do make the seats sit higher in the back (see pictures) but I felt flexibility was more important than looking identical.
The sliders have 6 welded bolts, and with the MasterCraft brackets I had to drill two additional holes per seat, and was only able to use 4 bolts from each seat. But I added a new bolt through a factory hole in the sliders giving me 5 total connection points per seat. I did end up swapping sliders too because they don't sit flat/flush after having to swap sides as the OP said due to the tilt handles hitting the wheel wells.
Then I pulled the seatbelts from the factory bench (since the junkyard 2011 buckles wouldn't latch) and I used the open hole to put the buckles in the middle (nice that Jeep put buckle holes on both sides!) I removed the seat belt buckle straps because they were too long. Then I connected the buckle directly to the hole bracket with three tiny 450lbs d-brackets (so that's almost 1,500lbs of safety per buckle).
Last but not least I am now taking the 2-seat portion of the bench I just removed (because the subwoofer prevents the whole bench from fitting) and installing that as a removable 3rd row against the rear gate! But that is for another post........
For now I just want to say thanks again OP! I wouldn't have tried this had it not been for you proving it could be done!
I have a 2012 JKU and picked up two 2011 matching JKU seats from the junkyard. I used the MasterCraft brackets you mentioned (quadratech still sells them) which bolted to the floor perfectly.
I removed the factory legs from each seat but kept the slider on (without the slider the seats don't have bolt holes far enough forward). Leaving the sliders on not only makes them easier to install but also gives them a nice factory look and maximizes cargo space when slid all the way forward (since we are loosing the ability to fold them flat). The sliders do make the seats sit higher in the back (see pictures) but I felt flexibility was more important than looking identical.
The sliders have 6 welded bolts, and with the MasterCraft brackets I had to drill two additional holes per seat, and was only able to use 4 bolts from each seat. But I added a new bolt through a factory hole in the sliders giving me 5 total connection points per seat. I did end up swapping sliders too because they don't sit flat/flush after having to swap sides as the OP said due to the tilt handles hitting the wheel wells.
Then I pulled the seatbelts from the factory bench (since the junkyard 2011 buckles wouldn't latch) and I used the open hole to put the buckles in the middle (nice that Jeep put buckle holes on both sides!) I removed the seat belt buckle straps because they were too long. Then I connected the buckle directly to the hole bracket with three tiny 450lbs d-brackets (so that's almost 1,500lbs of safety per buckle).
Last but not least I am now taking the 2-seat portion of the bench I just removed (because the subwoofer prevents the whole bench from fitting) and installing that as a removable 3rd row against the rear gate! But that is for another post........
For now I just want to say thanks again OP! I wouldn't have tried this had it not been for you proving it could be done!
happy with how it turned out