There are multiple threads on how to bed line the tub with Raptor Liner. Both Rooster76 and Mark9998 have excellent write-ups on the subject, which proved very helpful. I have yet to see a Rescue Green JK lined with the tintable liner..... so, here's some pics and my $0.02 on the process.

1. I've read in many places that this job can be completed over the course of a weekend. Wow, the guys getting this job done from start to finish in 48 hours are absolute beasts. It took me pretty much 2-weeks working a couple hours each night on the weekdays and 8-10 hours per day on the weekend. Total time: Around 40 hours of labor.

2. Cost was a bit higher for me as well. Possibly I'm OCD, but it cost me $200 for the Raptor Liner + a quart of Rescue Green paint and another $150 at Lowes for sanding discs, masking materials, and drop cloths. I already have a 33-gal compressor and hand tools, so those were not included in my expenses.

3. The factory soundproofing. All I can say is F.U. Chrysler Corp. I don't know what Jack-knuckle thought this was a good idea, but .... it took no less than 15-20 hours to chisel this crap out. I used an old (dull) chisel + hammer and removed it by hand. This was to prevent punching holes in the floorboard which some have admitted doing while using an air chisel. The sound-deadener is an epoxy type material, so sanding the remaining residue after chiseling is an absolute PITA. There are not enough cuss word combinations that can adequately express how I felt about this part of the job :lol:


Chiseling away the soundproofing. For me, heating the area with a blow-dryer for 45 seconds before removing the material worked best. After chiseling away the top layer, I used a combination of a sanding disc on a power drill + 40 and 80 grit sandpaper for the ridges to remove the remaining material. All said and done, I filled a standard wash bucket to the brim with sound-deadener chips by the time I finished.


I included this pic because when I chiseled the sound-deadener from the passenger rear footwell..... I found the beginnings of rust in the floorboard. There would be no way to identify this rust (before it ate through the floorboard) without removing the soundproofing. Rust is just in front of the chisel point.

4. Masking. I probably went overkill. I covered EVERYTHING, to include the surrounding walls of the garage. I removed the wires completely from the taillights and tailgate. I taped them on top of the roll-bars. One point of note, I found that plastic 3M masking film was far easier to use than paper. It cut my masking time in half when using the 3M film.


3M masking film on front of the Jeep


I masked the dash with brown paper + tape. Also visible is the tub after spraying with self-etching primer. It comes out an olive drab color, though it wa lighter than the Rescue Green.


My garage the makeshift paint booth.

5. For areas where I was masking an edge between the Jeep and Raptor Liner, I used green Frog Tape. This stuff worked awesome and gave sharp paint lines when I removed it an hour after painting. I used cheaper white masking tape for the rest of the process.

6. For large bolt-holes, I used the actual bolt (masked in tape) to mask from the Raptor Liner. For small holes, I used disposable earplugs. They worked great and were easy to remove after spraying.

7. Raptor Liner. I used all 4 bottles. I was able to spray 1/2 the Jeep with a single bottle. I applied extra material to the footwells and trunk area. I also sprayed the carpeted trunk cover. Total thickness is around 1/16 ". It won't stop the Jeep tub from getting dented, but it will protect the surface from scuffs, etc. Using the tintable Raptor Liner, I noted a couple issues.
a. The bottle markings make it unclear to what level both hardener and paint should be added. I used a measuring cup to measure 250ml of water into one disposable container (for hardener) and then 100ml of water into another disposable container for the paint (10% by volume). I then dumped the wire and used the disposable containers to measure paint/hardener into each bottle of Raptor Liner.
b. Raptor Liner is nasty stuff. I was wearing a respirator, gloves, and Tyvex suit in a ventilated garage. Even with these precautions, I was still lightheaded after an hour of spraying.
c. It's been mentioned in previous threads, but there is a weep-hole on top of the Raptor Liner spray gun for venting. I had 2x where this dripped paint into the tub while spraying hard-to-reach areas. I covered the drips with additional material, but it was a bit of a pain each time.

8. I removed the masking material about 2-hours after application. This seemed to be a good time, as the Raptor Liner had formed a film, but it still left crisp masking lines when I removed the Frog Tape.


Tub 2-hours after lining.


Rear footwell 2-hours after lining.

9. I've read from other posts that people re-install their interior the day after spraying and begin using their Jeep again. I don't know how this is possible. After 2-days the liner was still soft in several areas and after 4-days it was still easy to scratch when re-installing the seats. Thankfully I was able to dab scratched areas with Rescue Green paint to cover any damage. Raptor Liner states that it takes 5-7 days for the product to reach full strength. I can believe that. 5 days since spraying and my garage still smells like fumes in the morning. That means the liner is still "gassing" (curing). This is in an environment with >10% humidity and 75 degree temps (Mohave Desert).

10. Here's some pics of the final project. Overall, I'm really happy with how it turned out.

 

Kudos!

Looks good you did an awesome job.

Nice write up.

 

Welcome to the club . Your Jeep looks really great, especially with the tinted Raptor. That matched the color really well. It shows overall you took the time to get a very professional result. I'm glad my thread helped out some (https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-s...hreads-238739/)
CUBBY PICTS?
How did the cubby lid come out. Do you have any pictures. I'm glad I did mine it has made cleaning off some sand and mud much easier.
REMOVING GOOP
I bet you could have saved hours by using a true paint peeling heat gun vs a hair drier. Honestly that stuff just take for ever anyways. I think it took me a good 3 hours and a couple burnt fingers.
FUMES
I didn't have much problems with the fumes. I sprayed in a huge ass shop with the doors open and a rather cheap charcoal mask. I guess I was lucky to have a large area. The Jeep smelled for a bit with mine after I sprayed. I was lucky that when I sprayed it was in the middle of a dought. I had all the doors off and windows out for all of that smelly period. Hopefully it stays warm for you up in the mountains so you can stay well ventilated.
DRYING TIMES
I wonder if the drying times are slightly longer for the tinted Raptor. Being that your sort of diluting the hardner by adding extra paint in the mix. Mine was pretty firm after a day. That said you could take a key and scratch it off. I had a very small scrap (er' small bump came off) when I put my passenger seat in the next dayI think they drying time is something a lot of people don't really factor in.

There have been so many times that I have been glad that I have sprayed my tub: Quick rain showers, Mud, Dust, Dog hair, and just in general not having to give a crap about it getting dirty. Then when it does get dirty it cleans up with about no effort and a wet towel. There is no way I would ever go back to having carpet.

 

Wow!
Awesome Job. Very professional.
Any chance You'll be doing this for a living?
Memories of Light-headded-ness will keep that from
happening.

But All Jokes aside, This is quite something you have given the
rest of the Jeeping community a chance to chew over....
I especially liked your pointing out that with all Chrysler has done,
it hasn't stopped rust from intruding into our machines.
They should take a good long look at this thread and realize they
have chosen the wrong path to follow. By "dipping" the Jeeps in
an epoxy resin, they have made it impossible for anyone to detect
and eliminate the cancer of rust from being found,( before it does
any serious damage.)

I was wondering if, since you found this rust forming on the inside,
if you have taken any time to look at the underside of the tub to
see if you have any issues forming under there....

Chrysler claims that any applied undercoatings will void our warranties.
(I understand You have forgone this request,) but it stands to reason
that if you have rust forming on the interior of the vehicle then there
must surely be rust on the outside as well.

I don't know about most folks, but 3 yrs or 100K miles isn't quite enough
for me... I'd like for my rig to last for 20yrs and 1mil. miles....
with this in mind, I know I'll be doing everything in my power to make
that happen. (I still own a 1993 YJ,(she's melting into my driveway) and
the rust is winning.)

Thanks for a great write-up and all the awesome photos.
Wish I lived in Your climate right about now...Got a hurricane bearing down
on us out here in the East Coast....Fall is almost over and Winter is at Our
doorstep. Some dry heat sure would be nice right about now....hehehe.

 

Looks great! I did mine this past summer and love it!

 

looks good, nice job

 

Rooster76, Thanks for the comments. Sorry for the delay in answering your post. Below is a pic of the cubby cover. It came out decent, but I really needed a heat gun to melt the carpet so the texture would match better. If nothing else, it's durable as heck now.





I think the drying times are longer for the tinted Raptor. When the tinted Raptor scratches, it leaves a whitish color underneath. Thus it was really important for the liner to cure 100%. It's very durable a week later, but I still get a faint whiff of fumes from the cabin in the morning....so.... it's still not fully cured.

Boneshrk, I probably need to clarify some info from your response. The Jeep tub is not dipped in sound deadener. It's only located in the footwells, rear package area, and on the body joint seams. It looks like it's applied by a caulking gun or something to that effect. But, the sound deadener is porous and thus can allow water to seep into it. Also true that you won't see if it's rusting the floorboards in the area where the sound deadener is applied.
As for underbody coating voiding the warranty, I've never heard of that. I have Ziebart undercoating on my Jeep and have never had issues from Chrysler concerning this coating when I have warranty work performed.

Again, thanks to all for the nice comments. Totally digging the new floor and ease of cleanup. 1x swipe with a damp rag is all it takes.