Rancho high steer knuckles
11-24-2017, 09:44 AM
#21
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These knuckles are holding up great after a year of use. Highly recommend the Rancho knuckles. Anyone that is looking to upgrade should definitely have these on the Christmas list!
05-13-2020, 07:59 AM
#22
JK Jedi
Digging up this old thread for a question. Outside of being raised higher, are the TR mounts the same location (as in distance from the brake rotor)? Having an issue with Fusion 4x4 2.5-ton TR contacting my TF 13.3" brake rotors. Currently still have factory knuckles, and was hoping maybe swapping to one of the other knuckles out there might gain me even 1/4" of clearance based on where the TR mounts are compared to factory. Not sure if that makes sense or not. My current rotors have huge gouges from where the TR interferes, and I'm not willing to trash another set till I get this figured out.
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3rd Will (07-20-2024)
07-20-2024, 09:29 PM
#23
JK Newbie
Digging up this old thread for a question. Outside of being raised higher, are the TR mounts the same location (as in distance from the brake rotor)? Having an issue with Fusion 4x4 2.5-ton TR contacting my TF 13.3" brake rotors. Currently still have factory knuckles, and was hoping maybe swapping to one of the other knuckles out there might gain me even 1/4" of clearance based on where the TR mounts are compared to factory. Not sure if that makes sense or not. My current rotors have huge gouges from where the TR interferes, and I'm not willing to trash another set till I get this figured out.
I currently have a 3.5"lift, stock knuckles drilled out to 3/4" to accept the Artec heim joint with aluminum TR and a flipped DL with a drilled out pitman arm to accept the same. I have the Artec front truss kit with the track bar raised mount. I'm not sure if I like the heims. I'm considering going back to traditional rod ends and thought about these Rancho knuckles too.
I put on a Steer Smarts TB & and sector shaft brace but unfortunately the brace was touching my TB. I think it's because I have a raised TB and flipped DL with only a 3.5" lift.
Basically I mixed too many things with other things. So now I'm looking to start over on the steering, minus the raised TB bracket on the axle
Thoughts?
07-21-2024, 05:59 AM
#24
JK Jedi
Did you try the ranchos after all? I'm looking to switch / fix my steering.
I currently have a 3.5"lift, stock knuckles drilled out to 3/4" to accept the Artec heim joint with aluminum TR and a flipped DL with a drilled out pitman arm to accept the same. I have the Artec front truss kit with the track bar raised mount. I'm not sure if I like the heims. I'm considering going back to traditional rod ends and thought about these Rancho knuckles too.
I put on a Steer Smarts TB & and sector shaft brace but unfortunately the brace was touching my TB. I think it's because I have a raised TB and flipped DL with only a 3.5" lift.
Basically I mixed too many things with other things. So now I'm looking to start over on the steering, minus the raised TB bracket on the axle
Thoughts?
I currently have a 3.5"lift, stock knuckles drilled out to 3/4" to accept the Artec heim joint with aluminum TR and a flipped DL with a drilled out pitman arm to accept the same. I have the Artec front truss kit with the track bar raised mount. I'm not sure if I like the heims. I'm considering going back to traditional rod ends and thought about these Rancho knuckles too.
I put on a Steer Smarts TB & and sector shaft brace but unfortunately the brace was touching my TB. I think it's because I have a raised TB and flipped DL with only a 3.5" lift.
Basically I mixed too many things with other things. So now I'm looking to start over on the steering, minus the raised TB bracket on the axle
Thoughts?
No, I didn't buy them. I ended up just taking a flap disc to the TREs till I had enough clearance to not score the brake rotors. I replaced those brake rotors (not cheap) and haven't really had a problem since.
I'm not a fan of a heim joint for any steering component myself. I'd much prefer the more traditional ball joint in a TRE or DL. Regarding a drag link, most flip kits have you drill that hole out to 7/8" and then use a tapered insert for a flip, so that wouldn't be a big deal for you since you are currently only drilled to 3/4". bigger issue would be the tie rod portion. I'd imagine you could use the same sort of tapered insert in that application, but I can't say I've seen people do it. It would kinda suck to have to buy new knuckles for a drag link alone really.....on top of buying new DL and TR to start with.