Poison Spyder 2012 KOH Modified Class Build
12-20-2011, 07:21 AM
#42
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Thanks for all the great compliments!
12-20-2011, 09:04 AM
#43
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12-20-2011, 09:18 AM
#44
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Some work on the rear end.
We used a Currie Enterprises fabricated 9" housing (with a few of our own modifications), Currie 9+ nodular gear case, 5.37:1 gears, 35-spline spool, Currie 35-spline 300M full floating axles, and Currie unit bearings and housing ends.
We used a Currie Enterprises fabricated 9" housing (with a few of our own modifications), Currie 9+ nodular gear case, 5.37:1 gears, 35-spline spool, Currie 35-spline 300M full floating axles, and Currie unit bearings and housing ends.
12-20-2011, 01:06 PM
#46
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Question.
Are you guys using a file once you half round the aluminum and weld? Or are you going right to an orbital sander? I made a small battery tray for my sandrail where I used some tank rolls to get the radius, then TIG welded the edge by moving around and using a small pick/body hammer to keep the gaps tight. Once welded I used a coarse file to remove the weld profile and then used a DA sander to finish off prior to sending it out to be polished.
I am curious as to what your technique is? File, then grind or right to the DA and if so what grit sandpaper on your DA.
I would appreciate any information as my polisher commented on some of the deeper scratches from the file required a little more to remove. I would like to bring it to my polisher with the least amount of work for them or even if I decide to paint a part have very little prep work after welding.
Comments would be greatly appreciated.
Build is looking bad-ass by the way.
Mike.
Are you guys using a file once you half round the aluminum and weld? Or are you going right to an orbital sander? I made a small battery tray for my sandrail where I used some tank rolls to get the radius, then TIG welded the edge by moving around and using a small pick/body hammer to keep the gaps tight. Once welded I used a coarse file to remove the weld profile and then used a DA sander to finish off prior to sending it out to be polished.
I am curious as to what your technique is? File, then grind or right to the DA and if so what grit sandpaper on your DA.
I would appreciate any information as my polisher commented on some of the deeper scratches from the file required a little more to remove. I would like to bring it to my polisher with the least amount of work for them or even if I decide to paint a part have very little prep work after welding.
Comments would be greatly appreciated.
Build is looking bad-ass by the way.
Mike.
The dash and console are getting powder coated, which will hide the sanding marks.
12-20-2011, 01:35 PM
#47
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do you use anything when sanding your aluminum, I use this stuff (F-200) and apply it to the sanding pad and it never loads up and the pad last forever when you use it.
http://www.formaxmfg.com/coated-abrasive-grease-sticks
It works on drill bits and other saws as well
http://www.formaxmfg.com/coated-abrasive-grease-sticks
It works on drill bits and other saws as well
12-20-2011, 01:36 PM
#48
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More pix and props to some sponsors...
Bypass shocks and coilovers from Fox Racing Shox. These things are like jewelry!
Radiator, fluid coolers and fans by Griffin.
Motor mounts by Poison Spyder
Axle housings coming back from Currie after setup.
Starting to get a little crowded under there...
Larry says hurry up!
Bypass shocks and coilovers from Fox Racing Shox. These things are like jewelry!
Radiator, fluid coolers and fans by Griffin.
Motor mounts by Poison Spyder
Axle housings coming back from Currie after setup.
Starting to get a little crowded under there...
Larry says hurry up!
