Newbie - Plenty of DIY mods (stubby+windjammer+top) w/ pics
09-02-2008, 06:10 PM
#13
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Here was the general process…
- cut off the outer plastic end pieces by scribing 1.25 inches out from the 'impact bulge'. Only cut the plastic, you will cut the metal support later. I used a cutoff 4.5" grinder for a smooth edge. Had to finish the inner cuts with a recip saw since the circular blade did not reach all the inner plastic areas.
- Unbolt the 2 outer most mount screws from the back side before removing as these are on the outside edge of your cut and the end pieces won’t come off until you do. (see pic illust)
- Once the ends (plastic only) are off. Cut the metal bumper support off just outside the 2 mount bolt holes. That way you could actually go back to stock if desired. Use a recip saw for this. Metal cuts pretty easy. Cut ended up like a sideways ‘U’, just clearing the 2 existing mount holes. This will become obvious after you try to dry fit the slip in ends. After cutting the metal end off, you need to reattach the middle bumper plastic skin to the inner steel mount. I simply drilled 2 holes just inwards enough to reach the existing plastic shell and used nuts to hold them. These will need to be mounted before attempting to remount the new ends as the nuts are inside the cavity. (see pic illust)
- Take each end piece you cut off and cut 8.25 additional inches off the inner side. Scribe it along the same cut you already made. I used a jig saw for this cut. You can eyeball the back edge as there is no way to scribe it since it is a 'u' shape. Once you cut it off, you will also need to cut 2 slits to allow it to slide into the existing bumper. I have a few pics showing the backside slits. (see pic illust)
- Slide the end stub inside the groove on the remaining bumper. Cut/Trim as needed. You will want at least on inch overlap or more. You may have to trim more inner steel to get the fit / overlap desired.
- The rest was to make things more aesthetic. I used 1/16” by 1” aluminum bar from Home depot and cut each piece to fit on either side of the ‘impact bulge’. I rounded the edges. I drilled each to receive a ¼” lag screw and let the lag screws go thru the outer plastic and in some areas it also captured the inner plastic, making a pretty secure fit. I filled the overlap with black silicone and after drying, I used flat black spray paint. This gave it a more ‘welded’ look. All the ¼ inch bolts you see are stainless lag screws ¾ inches long. This is about as long as you can go without hitting the steel as you tighten them. (see pic issust)
- Last thing was to torch the lower plastic deflector and bend the ends upwards to match the new lines of the bumper ends. This would only be needed if you overlap as far as I did which leaves the under deflector kinda misaligned.
ps. I’ve added picks to the gallery to illustrate some of this. See link in 1st posting. I spent about $25 on hardware and metal blades I needed. Took me a couple days of tinkering. The aluminum is the biggest time consumer, but does finish it off.
RB
Last edited by RubiRedRider; 09-02-2008 at 06:22 PM.
09-02-2008, 06:14 PM
#14
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Join Date: Sep 2007
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No 'along the process' pictures. Only the end product pics. I’ve drafted some of the general outline below and added pics / illustrations to the gallery (see posting #1).
Here was the general process…
- cut off the outer plastic end pieces by scribing 1.25 inches out from the 'impact bulge'. Only cut the plastic, you will cut the metal support later. I used a cutoff 4.5" grinder for a smooth edge. Had to finish the inner cuts with a recip saw since the circular blade did not reach all the inner plastic areas.
- Unbolt the 2 outer most mount screws from the back side before removing as these are on the outside edge of your cut and the end pieces won’t come off until you do. (see pic illust)
- Once the ends (plastic only) are off. Cut the metal bumper support off just outside the 2 mount bolt holes. That way you could actually go back to stock if desired. Use a recip saw for this. Metal cuts pretty easy. Cut ended up like a sideways ‘U’, just clearing the 2 existing mount holes. This will become obvious after you try to dry fit the slip in ends. After cutting the metal end off, you need to reattach the middle bumper plastic skin to the inner steel mount. I simply drilled 2 holes just inwards enough to reach the existing plastic shell and used nuts to hold them. These will need to be mounted before attempting to remount the new ends as the nuts are inside the cavity. (see pic illust)
- Take each end piece you cut off and cut 8.25 additional inches off the inner side. Scribe it along the same cut you already made. I used a jig saw for this cut. You can eyeball the back edge as there is no way to scribe it since it is a 'u' shape. Once you cut it off, you will also need to cut 2 slits to allow it to slide into the existing bumper. I have a few pics showing the backside slits. (see pic illust)
- Slide the end stub inside the groove on the remaining bumper. Cut/Trim as needed. You will want at least on inch overlap or more. You may have to trim more inner steel to get the fit / overlap desired.
- The rest was to make things more aesthetic. I used 1/16” by 1” aluminum bar from Home depot and cut each piece to fit on either side of the ‘impact bulge’. I rounded the edges. I drilled each to receive a ¼” lag screw and let the lag screws go thru the outer plastic and in some areas it also captured the inner plastic, making a pretty secure fit. I filled the overlap with black silicone and after drying, I used flat black spray paint. This gave it a more ‘welded’ look. All the ¼ inch bolts you see are stainless lag screws ¾ inches long. This is about as long as you can go without hitting the steel as you tighten them. (see pic issust)
ps. I’ve added picks to the gallery to illustrate some of this. See link in 1st posting.
RB
Here was the general process…
- cut off the outer plastic end pieces by scribing 1.25 inches out from the 'impact bulge'. Only cut the plastic, you will cut the metal support later. I used a cutoff 4.5" grinder for a smooth edge. Had to finish the inner cuts with a recip saw since the circular blade did not reach all the inner plastic areas.
- Unbolt the 2 outer most mount screws from the back side before removing as these are on the outside edge of your cut and the end pieces won’t come off until you do. (see pic illust)
- Once the ends (plastic only) are off. Cut the metal bumper support off just outside the 2 mount bolt holes. That way you could actually go back to stock if desired. Use a recip saw for this. Metal cuts pretty easy. Cut ended up like a sideways ‘U’, just clearing the 2 existing mount holes. This will become obvious after you try to dry fit the slip in ends. After cutting the metal end off, you need to reattach the middle bumper plastic skin to the inner steel mount. I simply drilled 2 holes just inwards enough to reach the existing plastic shell and used nuts to hold them. These will need to be mounted before attempting to remount the new ends as the nuts are inside the cavity. (see pic illust)
- Take each end piece you cut off and cut 8.25 additional inches off the inner side. Scribe it along the same cut you already made. I used a jig saw for this cut. You can eyeball the back edge as there is no way to scribe it since it is a 'u' shape. Once you cut it off, you will also need to cut 2 slits to allow it to slide into the existing bumper. I have a few pics showing the backside slits. (see pic illust)
- Slide the end stub inside the groove on the remaining bumper. Cut/Trim as needed. You will want at least on inch overlap or more. You may have to trim more inner steel to get the fit / overlap desired.
- The rest was to make things more aesthetic. I used 1/16” by 1” aluminum bar from Home depot and cut each piece to fit on either side of the ‘impact bulge’. I rounded the edges. I drilled each to receive a ¼” lag screw and let the lag screws go thru the outer plastic and in some areas it also captured the inner plastic, making a pretty secure fit. I filled the overlap with black silicone and after drying, I used flat black spray paint. This gave it a more ‘welded’ look. All the ¼ inch bolts you see are stainless lag screws ¾ inches long. This is about as long as you can go without hitting the steel as you tighten them. (see pic issust)
ps. I’ve added picks to the gallery to illustrate some of this. See link in 1st posting.
RB
Thanks for posting the information!
09-02-2008, 07:22 PM
#17
JK Newbie
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(part numbers)
"Deck Cover / WindJammer –
Purchased the 90031-35 Bestop deck cover and the 80041-35 Bestop WindJammer - Custom fit it to the back roll bar using 2 sided velcro and HomeDepot mirror hangers. Worked perfect for connecting to the j-channel. Used the same hangers to attach the Jammer to the Dust cover but had to bolt it to the zipper, since these 2 parts are not designed to attach to each other (one has zipper, the other j-channel). "
I only had to mod how it attaches to the rear roll bar since I did not purchase the roll bar cover (speaker cover) that supposedly has mount points. I also had to fab the connection between the deck cover and jammer as the jammer had a zipper and the deck cover has a j-channel. See the pics in message #1 for more details.
ps. You have to have the soft top rear gate receiver to hook the dust cover at the rear. This can be purchased along with the deck cover, but I already had it. You also need the soft top channels behind the rear door to receive the Jammer. I also had them, however I am not sure where to purchase. They are part of the soft top channels that run above the doors.
The only actual mod I am considering on the physical Jammer is to replace the rear plastic with a tinted plastic. I have plenty of tinted palstic(s) that are leftovers from my chopped soft top. Side and Rear windows are now scraps.
RB
