New Member - '12 Rubicon
10-12-2011, 04:53 AM
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New Member - '12 Rubicon
Hey guys. New member here. Just bought a '12 Rubicon in silver. Coming from a 2000 Grand Cherokee (WJ) on Clayton Long Arms. So far I love the Rubicon.
Although I installed the Clayton long arm kit myself, I opted to have a shop install the BDS 3" lift on the Rubicon. The price was too hard to beat. I opted for some Mickey Thompson Classic II Black rims and Toyo MT's.
Most of my offroad driving will be at my hunt club and at Uwharrie Offroad Park in NC.
One thing I wanted to ask was about the steering. After the lift, the steering seems very "flighty" on undulating back country roads. I have a feeling it's the caster. It doesn't look like the shop installed the cam bolts on the lower control arms and instead just put the regular bolts back in. I haven't been able to crawl under and measure the caster yet due to some rain we're having right now. I'm hoping it'll let off today so I can get under there and take some measurements. I suppose it could be the toe also, but it's unlikely that it changed while installing the lift.
Before lift:
After lift (sorry for the crappy pic - early in the morning at work):
Although I installed the Clayton long arm kit myself, I opted to have a shop install the BDS 3" lift on the Rubicon. The price was too hard to beat. I opted for some Mickey Thompson Classic II Black rims and Toyo MT's.
Most of my offroad driving will be at my hunt club and at Uwharrie Offroad Park in NC.
One thing I wanted to ask was about the steering. After the lift, the steering seems very "flighty" on undulating back country roads. I have a feeling it's the caster. It doesn't look like the shop installed the cam bolts on the lower control arms and instead just put the regular bolts back in. I haven't been able to crawl under and measure the caster yet due to some rain we're having right now. I'm hoping it'll let off today so I can get under there and take some measurements. I suppose it could be the toe also, but it's unlikely that it changed while installing the lift.
Before lift:
After lift (sorry for the crappy pic - early in the morning at work):
10-12-2011, 08:43 AM
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Well, I just got under there during lunch and measured the caster at 3.5 degrees. That would explain it. I called the shop and they didn't have a very good answer as to why they didn't put the cam bolts in. Regardless, they're going to put them in and set the caster a bit higher. I'll eventually get the adjustable lower control arms but for now, I just want what was included in the kit that I paid for. They should hold up good enough for a while.
10-12-2011, 08:53 AM
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Well, I just got under there during lunch and measured the caster at 3.5 degrees. That would explain it. I called the shop and they didn't have a very good answer as to why they didn't put the cam bolts in. Regardless, they're going to put them in and set the caster a bit higher. I'll eventually get the adjustable lower control arms but for now, I just want what was included in the kit that I paid for. They should hold up good enough for a while.
10-12-2011, 09:08 AM
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According to the BDS instructions, there's nothing that needs to be welded. It looks like they're using a octagon shaped washer with the factory bolt. The instructions are here on page 5: ht tp://bds-suspension.com/instructions/014310-1.pdf
Last edited by Robar; 10-12-2011 at 03:00 PM. Reason: Please do no post clickable non-sponsor links
10-12-2011, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by JakeMate
I don't understand. Can you explain this?
According to the BDS instructions, there's nothing that needs to be welded. It looks like they're using a octagon shaped washer with the factory bolt. The instructions are here on page 5: ht tp://bds-suspension.com/instructions/014310-1.pdf
Last edited by Robar; 10-12-2011 at 03:01 PM. Reason: Edited clickable link
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10-12-2011, 09:24 AM
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It's not the bolt that will need to be welded it will be the while after you decide to go to adjustable ca's because in Oder to install the cam bolts they will new to notch out the tab on the control arm axle bracket in order to make adjustments... Then when you decide to get the adjustable ca's you will have to weld a washer on the bracket in order to make the whole round again an keep the control arm from moving... I think I got it all someone else may chime in and explain it better
10-12-2011, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by JKred
A cam bolt takes the hole in the axle lca mount and cuts a slot in it, allowing it to slide to the right adjustment. They tend to losen up and cause problems. The fix when going to adjustable lca's is to add a welded washer to reset the original mount hole.
