my version of how to fill/deflate all 4 tires at once
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JK Freak
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JK Junkie
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That's not a bad idea. Does it fill them all to same pressure or are the closer ones a higher PSI? That looks like it takes up a lot less room than my coiled up chord.
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JK Freak
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Yep all 4 at the same time at the exact same pressure, I built it primarily because I HATE trying to balance the tires. It seems like one is always off by a pound and then you do the "put a little in, measure... take a little out, measure....". with this you can just hook all 4 up and they are balanced. If you need to add a pound, or take a pound it is all done evenly to all the tires at once.
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JK Freak
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here is a parts list with the ACE part #'s and prices.
The most expensive and important part is the air chuck itself. In order for this set up to work the chucks must be closed when they are NOT hooked to the tire. The reason is obvious, if the chuck was open... when you hook up the first tire, the air would bleed out of the chucks that are not hooked up.
the next part is a 2" x 1/4 MPT nipple
then to attach this to the tubing you will need a brass 1/4"FPT to 1/4" barb end
The tubing that I used is simple poly tube with a 1/4" ID, in case you are concerned about air pressure...don't be. This tube is rated to 120 PSI and sense we are dealing with tires that are around 35 PSI there should never be a blow out.
You will need to "T" in 3 places, 2 for the rear tires and 1 for the air fill valve.
CONT'
The most expensive and important part is the air chuck itself. In order for this set up to work the chucks must be closed when they are NOT hooked to the tire. The reason is obvious, if the chuck was open... when you hook up the first tire, the air would bleed out of the chucks that are not hooked up.
the next part is a 2" x 1/4 MPT nipple
then to attach this to the tubing you will need a brass 1/4"FPT to 1/4" barb end
The tubing that I used is simple poly tube with a 1/4" ID, in case you are concerned about air pressure...don't be. This tube is rated to 120 PSI and sense we are dealing with tires that are around 35 PSI there should never be a blow out.
You will need to "T" in 3 places, 2 for the rear tires and 1 for the air fill valve.
CONT'
#9
JK Freak
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speaking of valve, this is a 1/4" MPT to thread onto a brass 1/4"FPT x 1/4" barb then to the tubing.
4 air chucks $28
4 nipples $ 8
5 brass barb $13
35 feet of poly $10
3 barb "T"s $ 6
1 1/4" male air valve $ 3
aprox total $68.00
The tubing is cut into several sections,
11 feet ( passenger front to passenger rear )
9 feet ( across the rear )
7 feet ( drivers rear to air valve )
4 feet ( air valve to drivers front )
The 2 sections that "T" into the rear are 18" long
and the section for the air valve is 12"
The construction is self explanatory by looking at the pictures, I hope.
there are at least 2 options for deflating,
1. purchase one more air chuck/nipple to clip to the air valve or,
2. the way that I have it is to bleed out through my air connection to my on board compressor.
4 air chucks $28
4 nipples $ 8
5 brass barb $13
35 feet of poly $10
3 barb "T"s $ 6
1 1/4" male air valve $ 3
aprox total $68.00
The tubing is cut into several sections,
11 feet ( passenger front to passenger rear )
9 feet ( across the rear )
7 feet ( drivers rear to air valve )
4 feet ( air valve to drivers front )
The 2 sections that "T" into the rear are 18" long
and the section for the air valve is 12"
The construction is self explanatory by looking at the pictures, I hope.
there are at least 2 options for deflating,
1. purchase one more air chuck/nipple to clip to the air valve or,
2. the way that I have it is to bleed out through my air connection to my on board compressor.
#10
JK Freak
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Looking at the picture of the tubing all laid out on the ground. The front of the Jeep would be at the bottom of the picture and the reason for the spikes in the ground is because Poly tube has a pretty good memory...it wants to curl back up.