My Turn at a rear bumper, tire carrier, and jerry can holder fabrication..
#53
JK Junkie
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
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Hey rutdigger do you live around 67th and deervalley? I think I might have seen you around here? There is a white jk here with a bumper similar never got to see it up close
#54
JK Freak
Thread Starter
Naw man, wasn't me..I have only been to Pheonix once and got nailed by those stupid street cameras..lol. I live down around Sierra Vista/Fort Huachuca area..if you see the Jeep again snap a pic..I would like to see..maybe he copied my bumper..lol
#55
JK Freak
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Riverton, Utah
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What do you use to cut your metal? I have access to a welder but nothing but a grinder to cut steel that thick. My shear is only good up to 20ga., I can cut 18 if I have a couple people to jump on it. Your cuts seem pretty clean on the sheet goods.
#56
JK Freak
Thread Starter
I use a mixture of a cutoff wheel for my grinder and my handy dandy variable speed ridgid jig saw with a metal cutting blade that matches the thickness of the metal I am cutting.
#58
JK Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: naples, florida
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honing out the spindle
" The spindle is doing great. Ya know, I looked at the bigger one but chose the regular version and to be honest its doing its job very well. No flex from the spindle, and easy to weld, if I were to have a complaint I would have to say that a Zerk fitting in the center would be nice and I had to hone out the carrier because the races were to tight, but other than that, no complaints. "
I'mnot knocking,so I hope you dont take it that way. You might already know, but just incase you don't or other don't.... You said the races for the beaings were to tight. They could have had an interferance fit when machined. If you run into this problem in the future you can heat the outsidepiece in a weling oven, kitchen oven, or fill a meatl bucket with oil and heat the bucket and drop the part in to enlarge it and then insert the bearings quickly after you remove them from the bucket. This will allow the bearings to seat correctly. by honing the peice out you add slop and make it prone to wearing out faster. Also you can put the races in the freezer to shrink them so they slide in easer. I don't know what the set up looks like. I'm just trying to offer helpfull advice to those that might not know. As a side note. If you apply too much heat when welings something youcan warp it that could have beeen part of the problem also. When welding precision pieces it can be heelpful to tack it into position and then lett the piece fool naturally (don't put water on it to cool it down it will warp for sure), and then stich weld it around slowly making sure you dont over heat it and let it cool between welds. Like I said before, I don't know if this was the case here, I'm just trying to offer helpful pointers to you or others that intend to do fabrication in the future.
I'mnot knocking,so I hope you dont take it that way. You might already know, but just incase you don't or other don't.... You said the races for the beaings were to tight. They could have had an interferance fit when machined. If you run into this problem in the future you can heat the outsidepiece in a weling oven, kitchen oven, or fill a meatl bucket with oil and heat the bucket and drop the part in to enlarge it and then insert the bearings quickly after you remove them from the bucket. This will allow the bearings to seat correctly. by honing the peice out you add slop and make it prone to wearing out faster. Also you can put the races in the freezer to shrink them so they slide in easer. I don't know what the set up looks like. I'm just trying to offer helpfull advice to those that might not know. As a side note. If you apply too much heat when welings something youcan warp it that could have beeen part of the problem also. When welding precision pieces it can be heelpful to tack it into position and then lett the piece fool naturally (don't put water on it to cool it down it will warp for sure), and then stich weld it around slowly making sure you dont over heat it and let it cool between welds. Like I said before, I don't know if this was the case here, I'm just trying to offer helpful pointers to you or others that intend to do fabrication in the future.
#59
JK Freak
Thread Starter
" The spindle is doing great. Ya know, I looked at the bigger one but chose the regular version and to be honest its doing its job very well. No flex from the spindle, and easy to weld, if I were to have a complaint I would have to say that a Zerk fitting in the center would be nice and I had to hone out the carrier because the races were to tight, but other than that, no complaints. "
I'mnot knocking,so I hope you dont take it that way. You might already know, but just incase you don't or other don't.... You said the races for the beaings were to tight. They could have had an interferance fit when machined. If you run into this problem in the future you can heat the outsidepiece in a weling oven, kitchen oven, or fill a meatl bucket with oil and heat the bucket and drop the part in to enlarge it and then insert the bearings quickly after you remove them from the bucket. This will allow the bearings to seat correctly. by honing the peice out you add slop and make it prone to wearing out faster. Also you can put the races in the freezer to shrink them so they slide in easer. I don't know what the set up looks like. I'm just trying to offer helpfull advice to those that might not know. As a side note. If you apply too much heat when welings something youcan warp it that could have beeen part of the problem also. When welding precision pieces it can be heelpful to tack it into position and then lett the piece fool naturally (don't put water on it to cool it down it will warp for sure), and then stich weld it around slowly making sure you dont over heat it and let it cool between welds. Like I said before, I don't know if this was the case here, I'm just trying to offer helpful pointers to you or others that intend to do fabrication in the future.
I'mnot knocking,so I hope you dont take it that way. You might already know, but just incase you don't or other don't.... You said the races for the beaings were to tight. They could have had an interferance fit when machined. If you run into this problem in the future you can heat the outsidepiece in a weling oven, kitchen oven, or fill a meatl bucket with oil and heat the bucket and drop the part in to enlarge it and then insert the bearings quickly after you remove them from the bucket. This will allow the bearings to seat correctly. by honing the peice out you add slop and make it prone to wearing out faster. Also you can put the races in the freezer to shrink them so they slide in easer. I don't know what the set up looks like. I'm just trying to offer helpfull advice to those that might not know. As a side note. If you apply too much heat when welings something youcan warp it that could have beeen part of the problem also. When welding precision pieces it can be heelpful to tack it into position and then lett the piece fool naturally (don't put water on it to cool it down it will warp for sure), and then stich weld it around slowly making sure you dont over heat it and let it cool between welds. Like I said before, I don't know if this was the case here, I'm just trying to offer helpful pointers to you or others that intend to do fabrication in the future.